lostalot Posted January 26, 2011 Share Posted January 26, 2011 hi that looks great thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derrick Posted January 28, 2011 Share Posted January 28, 2011 All looks great and what i would like to do this summer.I was going to on my project v8 Henry but new chassis decided not to cut it up just yet. But now having completed it and on the road after 3 years of build which i had. So following what your doing with great interest and keep up the good work. Would love to show a couple of photoes of my build but still cant figer it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted February 2, 2011 Share Posted February 2, 2011 Because I just had cause to look it up, here's my version using a D2 PAS box, you can also see how I supported the rad: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=13411 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuko Posted February 16, 2011 Share Posted February 16, 2011 No it goes exactly behind the panel, you will probably need to trip the panel lip if you mount it low. G Possibly a silly question but here goes, The power steering fluid reservoir, the inlet and outlets at the bottom of the reservoir, are they free flowing or are there check valves in them so it's required that you install them in the correct order? Todd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gremlin Posted February 16, 2011 Share Posted February 16, 2011 No check valves as far as i know. G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
difflock Posted February 24, 2011 Share Posted February 24, 2011 Looks a nice neat fitment Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheRecklessEngineer Posted February 24, 2011 Author Share Posted February 24, 2011 I'm nearly finished. It's turned into a front end re-jig in my case. An update with more photos coming soon (although I have managed to loose one camera and break another in the course of this build!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
difflock Posted February 24, 2011 Share Posted February 24, 2011 I will be converting my series to PAS soon Just need to get a PAS box now... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
difflock Posted March 3, 2011 Share Posted March 3, 2011 Just out of interest, I noticed you have wound the TREs out of the drag link so its the correct length... how far out is it safe to wind the TREs out? about half way on the thread? thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheRecklessEngineer Posted March 3, 2011 Author Share Posted March 3, 2011 That's a very good point - something I hadn't considered. I suppose half way isn't going to do much harm, but wouldn't go much further. Now you've pointed that out, I might hunt around for a Disco drag link. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moore101 Posted March 4, 2011 Share Posted March 4, 2011 Disco draglink probably wont be the right length due to disco axles being wider. When i put the rangie axles on mine with the normal series steering I shortened a rangie draglink. I then bent the trackrod so replaced it with a HD bar and got a HD draglink shortened and drilled so i could retap it at the correct length. When i convert to powersteering during rebuild over the next few months i guess my draglink will be too short. If you take a measurement of distance between steering arm holes theres a chance it could be somewhere near the length of my modified one which i'd be willing to part with it for funds towards my new one i'll have to buy and get shortened. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuko Posted March 4, 2011 Share Posted March 4, 2011 got a HD draglink shortened and drilled so i could retap it at the correct length When you got it drilled, was it drilled with both left and right thread patterns, or just right? I'm wondering this also as my plan is to make a HD draglink. Todd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
difflock Posted March 4, 2011 Share Posted March 4, 2011 I have a disco drag link sitting in the garden its definitely too long... Mine has PAS now It does feel slightly odd, being so light I still have the series drag link, but it is too short, so I will get a slightly longer one... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheRecklessEngineer Posted March 4, 2011 Author Share Posted March 4, 2011 Hmmm...something on my 'to make' list I think. Now, choice of material....stainless? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuko Posted March 4, 2011 Share Posted March 4, 2011 Hmmm...something on my 'to make' list I think. Now, choice of material....stainless? LOL I was figuring a health chunk of DOM would do the trick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
difflock Posted March 5, 2011 Share Posted March 5, 2011 The drag link really needs to be around 30.5"~31" long. the series one is 28.5", and the disco one is 34" long. (All those measurements are tube length) So what landys use a ~31" drag link? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheRecklessEngineer Posted March 7, 2011 Author Share Posted March 7, 2011 How far down the tube do the threads run on a disco? Can you chop 1" off each end? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted March 7, 2011 Share Posted March 7, 2011 I think, maybe the RRC/early Disco ones are slightly shorter than the 330TDI > Disco ones, as they run a swan neck, could be worth checking? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gremlin Posted March 7, 2011 Share Posted March 7, 2011 I used a swan neck drag link, fits perfectly with the tre's screwed in all the way. G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
difflock Posted March 7, 2011 Share Posted March 7, 2011 I second Gremlins comment I got a draglink from a 110 (mid 80's) its 31" long and works brilliantly So thats what you need to get Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuko Posted September 1, 2011 Share Posted September 1, 2011 I'm nearly finished. It's turned into a front end re-jig in my case. An update with more photos coming soon (although I have managed to loose one camera and break another in the course of this build!) Hej RecklessEngineer, It's been a while since hearing back from you on this project, any updates or thoughts afterwards? Cheers, Todd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheRecklessEngineer Posted September 1, 2011 Author Share Posted September 1, 2011 PAS on a series rocks! The system is working really well. The slop in the series steering is gone, and I have dramatically improved the lock over the (broken) series original. She's a much more drivable vehicle. The only problem I've really had is where I disturbed the sector shaft whilst removing the top of the box due to stripped threads on the bleed nipple. The repaired box worked for a while, but then the seals began to leak really badly - almost painting the road in fact! A new box on eBay was all of £25, and it was just nuts and bolts to replace it. Unfortunately, I've lost the camera with all my photos on it, so I have little to show. I've got a new engine (and 5 speed gearbox! Shock Horror!) to go in very shortly though, so I can grab some snaps of the completed system - and maybe the mods to fit the R380! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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