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Prop binding!


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I have a small problem with the prop on my 90 binding at full droop of the rear axle. I have a set of +2" shocks fitted. I had to extend my bumpstops because the tyre's were rubbing the rear tub. To try and get back the suspension travel I lost through the extra length bump stops I fitted Lowered shock mounts. This has got the articulation back to as good as it was previously.

The only problem is the prop binding when the axle droops fully (only likely if grounded).

So basically I was wondering what people do about this. Fit high angle prop? or Secure the middle of the axle to chassis to stop it dropping on both sides but still articulate? or Dont worry about it, its not likely to drop that far on both side's?

Any idea's?

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Cheers Tonk. I had no idea that's what people do. I'll look into that, It sounds a better idea than having the prop working at such a bad angle!

why not make your own prop from a rangie rear? its simple................... <_<

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Tell me more?

I seem to remember GON2FAR SUSPENSION (07812 717 550) supply high angle props. Best solution if you don't want to cut n shut a prop yourself.

Straping the axle would work as well - done that before to stop my springs dropping out.

Limits articulation tho.

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I was gona strap the axle in the middle so it can still articulate but not drop on both side's!

I'd be interrested in this. Seen Moglite's but anyone got any pics of this on a more origianl land rover?

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prop rumbling at speed is typical of a UJ on its way out. Get the truck on the level, prop the wheels and get under it with the handbrake off and out of gear. Gives the props a good shake. You will soon see if a UJ has gone. You must do it with the hand brake off tho.

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Aye up Pikey, What you doin ere? And using part of my 90 to make the "thing" in your avatar!

I have ground a small amount out from the propshaft yoke's to give a bit more angle, then I ran a length of chain from the top of the diff housing to the crossmember that I added for the rear winch which will only allow the axle to drop till the prop just starts to rub. I then threded a length of the elastic from a bunge through the chain so it will gather up rather than hang down. This is a quick fix that will buy me some time to look into making my own prop when I have found out which U'J's are the right one's to give more angle.

Tho I must admit its turned out tidy and doesn't effect articulation at all so if it seems to work O.K. it wont be a high priority to change it!

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Funnily enough when changing my UJ the other day I realised that my front prop is binding too on full articulation at the transfer end. It also slides so far on the splines that it knocks the dust cover off. The Haynes manual talks of a rubber gator on the front prop sliding joint but mine has never had one. Should it have? I too toyed with the idea of grinding out the yoke (wouldn't need much) but by the time I noticed the prop was back on and be beggared if i were taking it off again!

PS No part of Car 68 was included in my avatar. That was another mock-up altogether!

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u can grind a fair amount out of the props drive flange this can give u the same angle as on a disco 2 front prop (double cardon end) this i did on my tomcat but as mine was running at a steep angle it vibrated on over run and i ended up moding the hole lot to run disco 2 front prop

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sorry to hijack the thread, but does any one have experience of prop binding at speed, Giving a rubbling noise?

sorry i should have given more information. i think i get it on a certain section of road which has a large yump that kicks the rear up enough to give the graunching noise.

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