bigdru Posted March 31, 2011 Share Posted March 31, 2011 hi, i am fiting a new gear box and transfer box in my 95 v8 disco, but can not get it to mate up. any tips would be great thanks dru Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted March 31, 2011 Share Posted March 31, 2011 You'll need to make the input shaft turn to engage the splines, this is normally the issue with getting boxes to mate up. To do this, engage a gear in both boxes (if you have the t-box installed as well) and rotate the output shaft whilst pushing the gearbox into the engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigdru Posted March 31, 2011 Author Share Posted March 31, 2011 thanks will try that, transbox is on but linkage is disconected will conect it up and try that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DDO173 Posted March 31, 2011 Share Posted March 31, 2011 Have you replaced the clutch as part of this gearbox change operation, if so did you use a clutch plate alignment tool, if you didnt there isn't a snowball's chance of it mating up. Also you will find it a lot easier fitting the gearbox without transfer box first as this removes the off centre weight wanting to twist it all the time while you are getting the studs to line up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted March 31, 2011 Share Posted March 31, 2011 If you are confident that the clutch is in alignment, then a litle patience and attention to engine/gearbox alignment is all that's needed. You see people waving the gearbox like a lunatic in an attempt to get the gearbox on, and all you'll be doing is knackering yourself out. The input shaft is a machine fit on the clutch plate splines, so alignment is everything. Take your time to make sure that the bellhousing is equidistant from the engine all around it's circumference, and even if the splines of the shaft and plate are not in line - the bellhousing will move to within 25mm of the engine. Rotating either the flywheel - via the ring gear, or turning one of the drive flanges (in gear and diff lock), will then allow the gearbox to move towards the engine a significant amount (20mm or slightly less). The remaing gap will be necause of the raised lip[ of the bell housing, which is approx 6mm. If you have achieved this distance, then use a couple of nuts to pull the bellhousing the rest of the way as the input shaft will now be through the plate and partially into the spigot bearing. Putting a gearbox on is only a matter of a little patience and care. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigdru Posted April 6, 2011 Author Share Posted April 6, 2011 turns out the clutch was out of alignment, realigned it an the box slid on . What oil would you recomend for box as local factors say dextron11 ,dealers say mtf94 at double the price of factors. many thanks dru Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted April 6, 2011 Share Posted April 6, 2011 Is it R380? if so, then MTF94 (or 2nd gear will object ). LT77, then DII/AQF qill be fine. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigdru Posted April 6, 2011 Author Share Posted April 6, 2011 yep its an r380, acording to factors valvoline say dextron11, £30 for 3 litres at dealers (ouch) it get to be then. now got to wait on the rain going off as the disco is in a puddle. chears dru Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted April 6, 2011 Share Posted April 6, 2011 Buy 5 litres of anything, often the same price or less than 3 litre bottles of a.n.other oil. As Les says, it should MTF94, not Dexron II. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Niamh Posted April 6, 2011 Share Posted April 6, 2011 Well the general information section of the workshop manual says a R380 should have ATF Dexron IID Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyb0y Posted April 6, 2011 Share Posted April 6, 2011 Well the general information section of the workshop manual says a R380 should have ATF Dexron IID youve only gotta look at the letters and the transmission type to identify... Manual Transmission Fluid - MTF Automatic Transmission Fluid - ATF if you stick anything other than MTF in an R380 manual....youd better start doing some body building cos its a heavy lump to change unless its a bit of molyslip - or a pair of yer missus's nylon tights to quieten it down......lol...no I havent.... Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Niamh Posted April 7, 2011 Share Posted April 7, 2011 Don't take my word for it, this is the official workshop manual page- Gearbox lubrication.pdf Niiamh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Escape Posted April 7, 2011 Share Posted April 7, 2011 The theory I've heard (and go by) is LR decided on ATF DII when introducing the R380, because it offered better lubrication than the MTF available at that time. Current GL5 MTF is at least as good as the ATF DII, so I always use that. When changing the oil in the R380 of my P38a, I went from ATF to MTF, in the beginning first and second proved a bit more difficult when cold (it was winter and was only noticeable the first couple of shifts after starting), but once warmed up it shifted a lot smoother. Now, it always shifts very smoothly, could be due to the warmer nights or because the remaining ATF has mixed properly with the MTF. Greetz, Filip Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigdru Posted April 13, 2011 Author Share Posted April 13, 2011 finaly got every thin back together , DAM THING wont engage gears with engine running, push towards 1st gear and it creeps forward. switch engine of or put t/box in neutral it engages all gears. ARRRRRRRRRRRRRGGGGGGGGGG realy need some help with this now as its due its mot very soon. thanks Dru Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted April 14, 2011 Share Posted April 14, 2011 Have you bled the clutch system? Air in it will give you a bad clutch. Put the plate on the right way round have you? Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigdru Posted April 14, 2011 Author Share Posted April 14, 2011 would it need bled as the slave cylinder was just tucked away, as to the clutch plate could be wrong way round, would it damage it if it was?. lol, thats it for another month as my back is playing up again dru Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Escape Posted April 15, 2011 Share Posted April 15, 2011 A mate of mine had the same problem when we did the rear oil seal on his 300Tdi. My first thought (after lengthy bleeding) was also the plate was put in the wrong way round, so we took everything apart, to find the plate was in fact correctly fitted. We put everything back together, with little hope, but something must have changed cause it worked great afterwards. I realise this is of little help in your case, but at least you know your not only with this kind of problem. On the other hand, the symptoms do correspond to air in the clutch circuit, so that would be the easiest way to start. You can always check if the slave is actually moving and try to manually disengage the clucht by pushing on the lever with the slave removed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DDO173 Posted April 15, 2011 Share Posted April 15, 2011 If air had been drawn into the hydraulic clutch system over a period of time and then you replaced the clutch for a new 1, it may have been sufficient with the air compression to disengage the old 1 but not the new 1 with its thicked friction plate. Try a bleed it cant do any harm and if you do it enough you will flush the old fluid out and replace with new which is never a bad thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dooroy Posted April 17, 2011 Share Posted April 17, 2011 Can be very difficult to bleed these sometimes - I have found that just leaving them be for a while can help for some unknown reason . When you open the bleed nipple there should be a good spurt of fluid - if not then there isn't going to be enough pressure in the system to operate the fork and disengage clutch. As regards the gearbox oil having read up a lot on oils in the past I could never understand why you should use automatic transmission fluid in a manual gearbox ; I read somewhere that LR recommended this for the 380 as the synchromesh was weak from day one and ordinary gear oil would have rendered the synchro almost useless while the ATF allowed it to work better - even though the use of ATF was considered by many to be the cause of many 380 failures giving the box a bad name . Before MTF became available over here I used the Difflock product for a number of years with good results ; never used ATF inspite of what LR say . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted April 17, 2011 Share Posted April 17, 2011 . delete please. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted April 17, 2011 Share Posted April 17, 2011 Don't take my word for it, this is the official workshop manual page- Gearbox lubrication.pdf Niiamh LR Tech Bulleting stating change to MTF94 fluid ---- supersedes what the workshop manuals state. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Niamh Posted April 18, 2011 Share Posted April 18, 2011 Thanks, I was going to ask if anyone had an official bulletin for LR detailing the change. Niamh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigdru Posted April 20, 2011 Author Share Posted April 20, 2011 Turned out i had the clutch plate in the wrong way round new clutch i have been supplied is way to small and the supplier is saying its the only one listed for it. Its an LR009366 if anybody knows what it fits Dru Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dooroy Posted April 20, 2011 Share Posted April 20, 2011 Google says that clutch will fit the 200/300 Discovery 1 dsl - no mention of the V8 . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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