dirtyninety Posted June 9, 2011 Share Posted June 9, 2011 Right, having now purchased and automatic box i have begun fitting it to my engine. I have run into a small problem, I have bolted on the engine back plate and bolted on the starter ring. I have come to the point where the torque converter is bolted to the starter ring (after realising you need to remove the bronze bush thing out the crank so the torque converter slides up) There are four bolts that hold the torque converter to the starter ring, i have 4 appropriately sized bolts that are the correct length and correct thread, but with a 17mm head on them. The problems starts when you try and get a 17mm socket through the starter motor hole to try and put them in/tighten them up. Am i missing something? a little guidance is needed! Thanks I have taken pictures to show what i mean. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtyninety Posted June 9, 2011 Author Share Posted June 9, 2011 torque converter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtyninety Posted June 9, 2011 Author Share Posted June 9, 2011 starter ring Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James90 Posted June 9, 2011 Share Posted June 9, 2011 Hi mate, Ive just done this exact conversion. Problem is your using the wrong bolts, they should be a M10 x around 25mm but with a 13mm head with a flange on them. Then you can use a long 13mm socket A word of advice is to make 300% sure that the rear crank oil seal is intact and fitted correctly.. I thought I had and two weeks later I had to change it! I just slid the box back 6 inches and went through the gap and even though I have the pleasure of a two post ramp it wasn't funny trying to get those bolts back in at arms length and just by feel!! Hope this helps. Oh and if everyone hasnt already said, make sure the torque converter sits perfect on its shaft mate, it should have 3 distinct locations and have about 2-3mm end float agaisnt the flex plate once the gearbox is bolted back up James Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buzz Posted June 9, 2011 Share Posted June 9, 2011 As James has mentioned above, make 100% sure that the torque converter is fully engaged on it's shaft, (if I remember correctly, it engages with the oil pump drive). Once the torque converter is in place on the box, you can turn it so that one of the bolt holes is at the 6 o'clock position. Now you can bolt the box onto the back of the engine. Once that's done, you can rotate the engine so that the flex plate bolt hole lines up with the torque converters hole, and then fit the first of the correct flex plate to torque converter bolts (they should come with loctite already on the threads). Sorry if this teaching you to suck eggs, but if it's not done correctly the box and torque converter can be damaged, and nobody wants that. Have fun! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtyninety Posted June 9, 2011 Author Share Posted June 9, 2011 Not teaching me to suck eggs, im 20 and have got to learn some way! So i slide the torque converter onto the auto box BEFORE I offer up the auto box/Torque converter combination up to the engine? Thanks for your advice, its most most useful, literally couldn't do it without the help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buzz Posted June 9, 2011 Share Posted June 9, 2011 So i slide the torque converter onto the auto box BEFORE I offer up the auto box/Torque converter combination up to the engine? Yes. Torque converter onto the auto box (making sure its engaged), auto box onto the engine, then bolt the flex plate to the torque converter (through the small access hole). Now you'll have a fully connected drive train. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtyninety Posted June 9, 2011 Author Share Posted June 9, 2011 excellent thankyou, much appreciated! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted June 9, 2011 Share Posted June 9, 2011 Seem to recall Ian Ashcroft saying something like the box has to be stood on end to do this otherwise you derange something internal; can't find it just this sec, but I will search, otherwise I suggest you give them a call before putting the torque converter on the box. Maybe it's just the 3 locations thing. Nigel Found it My link Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Niamh Posted June 9, 2011 Share Posted June 9, 2011 Seem to recall Ian Ashcroft saying something like the box has to be stood on end Certainly the paperwork that come with the box from Ashcroft advises this... and has dire warnings about oil cooler and pipes and crud, I took the easy option and went for a new cooler and pipes. Niamh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtyninety Posted June 10, 2011 Author Share Posted June 10, 2011 Seem to recall Ian Ashcroft saying something like the box has to be stood on end to do this otherwise you derange something internal; can't find it just this sec, but I will search, otherwise I suggest you give them a call before putting the torque converter on the box. Maybe it's just the 3 locations thing. Nigel Found it My link That is brilliant thankyou! My box is a 744 so 18mm is my magic measurement. Now, this end float melarky, i shall take a picture of what i think this means so you fine chaps can tell me if im right or wrong! i seriously do not want to destroy this autobox! thanks again! chris. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keithjh Posted June 10, 2011 Share Posted June 10, 2011 Right, having now purchased and automatic box i have begun fitting it to my engine. I have run into a small problem, I have bolted on the engine back plate and bolted on the starter ring. I have come to the point where the torque converter is bolted to the starter ring (after realising you need to remove the bronze bush thing out the crank so the torque converter slides up) There are four bolts that hold the torque converter to the starter ring, i have 4 appropriately sized bolts that are the correct length and correct thread, but with a 17mm head on them. The problems starts when you try and get a 17mm socket through the starter motor hole to try and put them in/tighten them up. Am i missing something? a little guidance is needed! Thanks I have taken pictures to show what i mean. Wrong bolts mate they should have 13mm heads Keith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtyninety Posted June 17, 2011 Author Share Posted June 17, 2011 Ok, so I've been to the local fairly large fixing supplier and they don't stock not know where to get a M10 x25 with a 13mm head Does anyone know the part number for the original landrover part because it seems i am going to have to order some genuine bolts! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Woodward Posted June 17, 2011 Share Posted June 17, 2011 My bolts were missing when I assembled mine. I found a 3/8 drive Snap On 17mm socket just fitted in the hole. The other alternative would be to use cap head bolts with a washer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtyninety Posted June 18, 2011 Author Share Posted June 18, 2011 i shall have a go trimming down a draper value 17mm!! rather not trim my britool set! Also, regard end float, why is end float needed? surely it will just make it rattle? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James90 Posted June 18, 2011 Share Posted June 18, 2011 There should be a couple of mm of end float when the gearbox is bolted up before you bolt the flex plate to the torque converter, just enough for you to be able to rotate them to align the bolts. If you cannot move the flex plate or TC around then you know the TC isn't located correctly. Once its all bolted together there wont be any movement between the two. James Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Ian Posted June 18, 2011 Share Posted June 18, 2011 Hi your doing good so far, there needs to be some play or end float as the TC grows a little under pressure (balloons) and can lead to excessive end force/pressure on the pump, hope this explains why you need end float. regards Ian Ashcroft Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Hancock Posted June 18, 2011 Share Posted June 18, 2011 Screw - Flanged head, 4 off, Pt No FS110141M. M10 x 14, is that what the OP wants? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtyninety Posted June 19, 2011 Author Share Posted June 19, 2011 Phil if these are the bolts that go inbetween the TC and flex plate then yes they are. I would get a the part number myself, but they seem to be missed off microcat!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtyninety Posted June 28, 2011 Author Share Posted June 28, 2011 After searching for too long for these strange sized bolts, I sort help from my mate who was doing a machining course at college. He machined 2mm off each side of the bolt head in 0.5mm pass's.... thats 4 per side, so 24 per bolts, 96 cuts for all 4 bolts! also, they're machined to 12.9mm so a damn snug fit in a socket! I was very impressed, this mate is well known for lowering his discovery onto himself and used a hammed to flare his arches... so when he said he'd machine me the bolts I never expected them to come back haha. College can't be all bad can it?! So tonight me and 2 friends tipped up the autobox, guided the TC into position, first couple of times i couldnt get it to slide 'home' then evertually "clunk" it went back, measured up my 18mm from the bell housing face and it all spines lovely. Offered it up to the engine, bolted the bell housing up, the TC still spinning lovely then proceeded to bolt in my custom bolts using loctite leaving 1mm end float. Ended up being much less of a daunting task as i had originally thought. Much much thanks to all that have contributed, but i have another question! How does the kick down cable bracket bolt onto the fuel pump, has anybody got a picture or would someone be so kind as to take one for me? Thankyou! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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