James90

Do you have the part number for those drive flanges? and would you know if they are metric/imperial? I have some front hubs off an '88 110 and are looking for some thinner flanges, I have some later Defender types and they do not fit into the hubs as the spigot inside is slightly too big and theres not enough depth to clear the stub axle. Sorry for the hijack James

More of a disadvantage in my opinion, after 10 years of leading groups of adults and children on foot and vehicle through several national parks, its plastic bags, tyres and general litter that certain people seem to leave behind that gets me much more than land erosion through legitimate use. People walking/driving off piste is also frustrating. I genuinely think that making lanes this smooth will be much worse, how long before we see Mondeos half way up Stanage because they fancied a picnic at the top, or to get closer to Crags for climbing etc etc

Oh dear...lets hope they don't make it an easily accessible width and surface for a Transit tipper like they have on other lanes otherwise they'll have to worry about other types of environmental destruction.

End of next month according to trail wise. I was driving a metallised BOAT at the weekend, it was so smooth and mundane two huge speed bumps had been constructed.... The mind actually boggles sometimes....

The A53 into Buxton as it was yesterday...no camera trickery easily 4-5 foot deep in places across the entirety of the road even higher at the sides against stone walls!

At a guess it will either be an air leak, although would do well to hear it at idle, or slightly worse a dodgy bearing, allowing the turbines to touch the housing and causing the squeak. Can check the first with some soapy water in a spray bottle and the second by removing intake pipes and feeling the compressor for lateral movement and witness marks on the housing Hope this helps James

I have no experience, but if your thinking of putting a 200tdi in would it not make a little more sense to get a Wolf with a 300tdi already in? There isn't a great deal difference in price from what I have seen, especially if you thinking of buying from a mag or a dealer.. Just a thought that's all James

I had exactly the same on my 200tdi auto conversion. I used two ratchet straps over the chassis rails and under the gearbox like a cradle. Use the straps to take the strain off the mounts, take the props off and undo the torque conver bolts and then the bell housing bolts and then used a third ratchet strap to pull the box backwards allowing enough room to access the crank seal. This was done on a two post ramp, bit of an act but def easier than taking either or both out. Hardest part is the TC bolts Hope this helps

Seen the light? Or missed the mark again? Good for evolving markets like brazil and china?? How about a good looking, tough and functional 4x4 with comfort and gadgets at a good price for the UK market? Just like the other major brands are offering like the L200, Nissan Pathfinder, Jeep Wrangler etc etc I always feel like LR seem to make either the Defender or a whole host of posh baby Range Rover type stuff...

Good evening.. So I've just bought a 110 CSW as anew toy the downside to this is I now need to sell my 90 and this is where I need some help/advice! The question is however, what is the best way to sell it?? In parts or as a running car? The spec is: -1990 Land Rover 90 -Discovery 200tdi and auto box conversion -Whitbread external roll cage -6 month old exmoor trim canvas and hoop set -2" lift springs and shocks, inc drop plates, dislocation cones and etended brake lines -Custom 'challenge front end' with aluminium panels and checkerplate tops which has been bullnosed approx 2-3 to bring the winch in close and improve approach angles -Custom ws4x4 winch bumper made to match the contours of the front wings -NAS rear lights At the moment she needs a weekend work to get back on the road as I have 'borrowed' some of her goodies back for the 110, nothing serious she's still got MOT till the end of summer, so needs seats refitting and a centre console refitting (had a raptor before) MOT wise as far as I know will need a track rod end or two and never had any other problems Weeks and tyres aren't included, neither is the winch although the bumper is. So.... What do you guys genuinely think she is worth as she stands? Could I squeeze 3k with tax and test? Sell as a project? Or break for parts..? Sorry for the long post by the way..... Pics: (as said now a soft top, no winch, no wheels tyres included, no rear exmoor seats) http://db.tt/dTDoANxL http://db.tt/PgTRiyWz http://db.tt/AQpKJlKG http://db.tt/k3C6OGW4 Cheers, James

Good evening! Having just resprayed my 110 CSW, I fancied putting some original style vinyl back on the sides.. Does anyone know any supplier of these? Ive looked on the dreaded ebay and can't seem to find much! No doubt these are crazy money from a dealership, just wondering if anyone knows any good suppliers and a rough price, before I try my local signwriters Cheers! James

Hmm Im also wondering this, I have an auto 200tdi and without a rev counter its hard to know what the engine is actually doing, annoying thing is Ive sold all my old spare transfer boxes, so now I will end up buying a new one to test!

Could always give it a little tap with a hammer and ring autoglass.. Its done alot on cars with bonded screens, seems a little un necessary with a defender screen being so easy to replace, but your excess may work out cheaper than a new screen, they can even do heated screens if you ask! (maybe worth asking first however!)

Goes from the negative lead through the side of the battery box upto one of the bellhousing bolts, theres normally another steel braided cable that goes onto the nearside chassis rail as well, easiest way is to follow it from the battery

funny either way a 300tdi should start without dash lights once its turning, as long as the stop solenoid has 12v that is! So you have no dash lights at all?

As rough as it may seem it would be 10k if it was a 110, doesn't seem too bad a base but does depend on what the 'tlc' is!

There should be a couple of mm of end float when the gearbox is bolted up before you bolt the flex plate to the torque converter, just enough for you to be able to rotate them to align the bolts. If you cannot move the flex plate or TC around then you know the TC isn't located correctly. Once its all bolted together there wont be any movement between the two. James

When I changed my LT77 to an auto, I used my original LT230 without a problem. I would imagine it would be the same case across the board. There could always be an exception to that rule tho!

Hi mate, Ive just done this exact conversion. Problem is your using the wrong bolts, they should be a M10 x around 25mm but with a 13mm head with a flange on them. Then you can use a long 13mm socket A word of advice is to make 300% sure that the rear crank oil seal is intact and fitted correctly.. I thought I had and two weeks later I had to change it! I just slid the box back 6 inches and went through the gap and even though I have the pleasure of a two post ramp it wasn't funny trying to get those bolts back in at arms length and just by feel!! Hope this helps. Oh and if everyone hasnt already said, make sure the torque converter sits perfect on its shaft mate, it should have 3 distinct locations and have about 2-3mm end float agaisnt the flex plate once the gearbox is bolted back up James

Hey, I've just bought a full canvas and set of hood sticks with the intention of converting from hard top to canvas. Question is does anyone have any diagrams or measurements to where the rope fixings sit on the body, or the set up of the header rail. I was hoping exmoor trim may have a diagram but it seems not. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Cheers! James

Hi guys, does anyone have a picture of the kick down cable bracket on the injection pump on a 200tdi auto? Im just putting one into a Defender, everythings sorted apart from the bracket, I cant find any pictures to give me a rough idea where to start.. Making the bracket shouldnt be a problem, but I need to know if the kick down is pulled when the throttle cable is pulled, or if its on a rocker and its pulled when the throttle is closed if that makes sense! Any help would be great! Cheers! James

Hi mate, you really need to do a parasitic drain test, so really youll need a multimeter capable of measuring upto say 10A (not mA). You then need to disconnect the negative lead and connect the meter in series between the lead and the battery post. This will then give you a reading of how much current is being drawn whilst the car is off. (make sure and door contact switches etc are taped up so it thinks the doors shut). Its pretty much a case then of going through all the wiring, disconnecting fuses or wires untill the current drawn drops down to a few mA. They say at rest a car should pull no more than say 50mA, although my Audi pulls 200mA and thats apparently normal for it, either way, I would say no more than 50mA on a Defender, depending on any alarms etc you have installed. The other thing to note is that if the battery is goosed, it may be showing 12v but its still weak, so it may be worth while trying to borrow another battery to test. Hope that makes sense mate! James

The engine braking is a good one, gone are the days where engine braking should be used as an effective way of slowing the vehicle, as to not overheat the brakes (expecially when towing) Its now viewed as the opposite, as your engine being on 'overrun' is apparently bad for the environment - unburnt fuel etc etc.. What did the rest of the test involve? Im looking to do mine soon..

Hey guys, Ive always quite liked the look of these, but has anyone ever fabricated one themselves? Just wondering, but may have a go at one soon.. so any ideas would be great! James

as requested a 'finished' (but not quite ever finished!) picture. Just needs a good clean out now after my last adventure and the other switches finishing. Ive made quite a few different car pcs over the years, first one that actually has a real benefit over a standard head unit! Just a shame im not OBD compliant!