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Complete Rewire


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hi, i recently brought a 1986 D reg defender off a window cleaner, he had put in extra wiring to power water pumps and other things,

i was having problems so i pulled out all the extra wiring, every where i look there is spliced cables and cables not connected to any thing,

I need to rewire as something is draining my over the night. this an example of my problems i pulled out all the fuses behind the gear stick and every thing still works!!!!!!!!!!! except for the horn, need to know where to begin and/or where to buy a complete wiring loom .

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had a similar situation with my 110 when i bought it as a project.lights were doing all sorts of things.

i bit the bullet and bought a new complete loom front to back from Autosparks.had no problems since. :D

lots of people say it's a difficult job to get it through the chassis,all i say is PAH! easy.

Take all the grommets and connectors off and tape it up to the tail of the old loom and pull it through,must have taken all of 5 mins to get it sorted.

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I have a bulkhead loom from a D reg 90 in a very un-molested state. No scotch locks anywhere, and I've only found 2 crimp on connectors which just look like direct replacements for the original bullets.

PM me if you're interested. Will be significantly cheaper than an autosparks one. And I'll leave all the relays in with it too!

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As has been suggested the Autosparks ones are muchos ££££ - but the chassis one (which is liable to be quite umolested anyway) could conceivably be replaced by some 13/12 core trailer cable in a bit of conduit, with a decent multiway connector at the front end (depending on whether you have rear wash/wipe and HRW) – just be careful not to get your wiring colours in a mucking fuddle…

The lighting/engine looms could probably all be reproduced and upgraded with about £20 worth of bits from VWP and some time (see tech archive for the lighting upgrade)

It’s the bulkhead loom that forms the backbone of the system – I have managed to get mine to a state whereby I’m happy to reuse it, having repaired all the evidence of amateur bodging. Some brave souls on here, such as PieEater, have even rebuilt their own from scratch (adding additional functions). Much time but probably 1/3rd of the cost…

At the end of the day, you’ll need to factor in how much your time is worth to you, and how long you can live with your truck being off the road for.

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As has been suggested the Autosparks ones are muchos ££££ - but the chassis one (which is liable to be quite umolested anyway) could conceivably be replaced by some 13/12 core trailer cable in a bit of conduit, with a decent multiway connector at the front end (depending on whether you have rear wash/wipe and HRW) – just be careful not to get your wiring colours in a mucking fuddle…

The lighting/engine looms could probably all be reproduced and upgraded with about £20 worth of bits from VWP and some time (see tech archive for the lighting upgrade)

It’s the bulkhead loom that forms the backbone of the system – I have managed to get mine to a state whereby I’m happy to reuse it, having repaired all the evidence of amateur bodging. Some brave souls on here, such as PieEater, have even rebuilt their own from scratch (adding additional functions). Much time but probably 1/3rd of the cost…

At the end of the day, you’ll need to factor in how much your time is worth to you, and how long you can live with your truck being off the road for.

nice one, think my novice mind got that,

no rear wiper or HRW so not to much to worry about back there just lights and trailer socket,

I plan to do it over one weekend,

i still cant work out how everything works with the fuses taken out ?!!!!!!?!?!?!

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thanks old hand for loom, so far so good attempting to label it up before i start, quite diffecilt as there are a lot of cables in my truck not attached to any thing!!!! but looks quite straight forward, if i can work out where these last couple of cables go, think theres going to be a lot of swearing this weekend

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It should be fairly straight forward to follow if you work methodically. You will probably find you need to remove a lot of the dash to get it all in properly - as I'm frequently told 'the long way is the quick way' (and normally involves less swearing).

Assuming you've not got all sorts of extra stuff that needs to be wired in then just rip out anything that looks non-standard. And if it has a scotch-lock on it, stamp on it too just for good measure. A haynes manual might be useful for working out what colour wire does what if you get stuck on any particular bits.

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have Haynes manual and the colour code list but still can't work out what one or two spay connectors do,as they don't seem to be in manualand what the couler code says they do they just wont reach!!!!!!!!

any one know of a individual digram just for the bulk head loom??

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have Haynes manual and the colour code list but still can't work out what one or two spay connectors do,as they don't seem to be in manualand what the couler code says they do they just wont reach!!!!!!!!

any one know of a individual digram just for the bulk head loom??

You may find that they don't reach as there is a secodnary loom that you have to buy to extend it to the item in question. It's like the windscreen washer bottle on my 90. Has a connection on the loom near the bulkhead, and then an extension loom from the connector to the actual pumps.

Hope this makes sense?

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One of the best places to go to try and understand your vehicle and work out where things should go is at a breakers - you may also be able to pick up serviceable parts as well.

I use CWS at Glastonbury which isn't exactly round the corner for you but neither are they the other end of the country. They still let you scavenge and always have a good selection of defenders from early to late.

Rob

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