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90 TD5 fuel tank strap


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Aye, that's what I thought. Can get 10m of builder's stuff for about a fiver. Will have to dig out some suitable foam to go under it.

The next question on this tank is about the breathers:

Not sure what to do here...

A is 20mm O/D and is normally attached to the TD5 filler neck, so is in theory, the correct size for breather purposes, when filling the tank.

B is 7mm and is, I guess, just a generic breather, allowing for the expansion of gases etc.

I don't have the TD5 filler neck, and the breather on it is 10mm O/D and I can get the 7mm hose (B) to fit onto it. So I figure that would make senses.

But what do I do with A? Presumable I need a breather of that bore to help with filling, else I'd blank it off. If so, where do I run it? Up into the wheel arch could cause problems if wading, and running it into the engine bay seems a tad dangerous

picture054bz.jpg

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The TD5 tank for the 90 has a sheet cradle under it which is bolted to brackets on each chassis longitudinal. There are no straps. It is held in place by the rear tub which compresses it slightly, this is how it's designed to fit so Item 12 or a substitute is not required at all.

Can your filler breather not go to the filler neck that you are using ? It's usually customary to join it to the other tanks breather using a 'Y' piece connector.

HTH

Mo

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Put a bit of the pipe that usually fits on your filler neck breather onto the 10mm breather stub on the neck itself. This will be a hose with an OD likely around 15-18mm. You should be able to then use the 20mm ID hose from the tank to the breather, effectively using the small piece of smaller hose as a sleeve.

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Aye, I've got the cradle, but the tank does seem to slide around a bit, and I think a few quid on strapping will be much more satisfactory.

As for the filler with a bit of hose on it, the bore will still be the same, so would that not be a problem? Linking to the original breather is an idea I hadn't thought of admittedly. Will investigate.

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It shouldn't have a strap on a 90 and doesn't need one. You'll find out just how little it needs a strap if you ever have to take the tank and cradle out again once the rear tub is on !

On the picture above A needs to be used for the filler and B for the breather - normally routed into the back of the inner rear wheel arch. B is a "roll over valve" which seals the vent off if the vehicle is inverted. For wading use I'd recommend fitting a pressure relief/vacuum relief valve into the pipe running from B as they are normally closed and only open to release pressure or let air in when required.

Connecting B to A via a T piece is a really bad idea as it essentially leaves you without a vent at all when the fuel cap is in place.

Stepping the filler vent down from 20mm to 10mm shouldn't be too difficult, there are plenty of places selling plastic step down adaptors that would do the job. Obviously a smaller vent may make it more temperamental to fill but shouldn't be too bad.

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Stepping down isn't a problem phsically, but if it doesn't cause too many problems for filling, then perhaps I should do that. It is only my diesel tank, which isn't used that much. Veggie goes in the other one.

Where can you get a suitable pressure relief valve from? Had a quick look at ebay and a few online car builder places, but can't find any yet?

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I use one of these...

http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/Motorsport/Fuel_System/Fuel_Tank_Vent_Valves/Mocal_Fuel_Tank_Pressure_Relief_Valve/1546/0/23336

Probably cheapest if you go to Mocal direct (Think Automotive) - for some reason this particular valve isn't listed on their web site but if you phone them up they'll ship one to you. I think their (Mocal) part number is TPV8

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  • 3 weeks later...

OK next question:

Got the body on yesterday, but it sits onto the tank, and there is a gap of around 5mm between the tub/body and the chassis.

Are there meant to be any spacers on the chassis anywhere, or is there something I've missed?

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Ah, I recognise them now....

Not sure I've got a complete set on there, but with the ones I've got, there's a 5mm (at least) gap between the chassis mounts and the tub.

I'm pretty certain the tank's seated correctly too, but I guess that that's the first thing to look at.

There's no difference between the tub braces on a TD5 and a 1985 90 is there? ie the TD5 doesn't have deeper ones or anything?

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I wasn't aware of any difference, thought that's not to say there isn't one. It might be that the 5mm is the amount that the tank is compressed by the tub, though it seems a lot.

Is the chassis a Td5 item? Worst-case scenario, could you space the cradle down a few mm with a washer or two where it attaches to the chassis brackets?

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If it's any help I had to "compress" mine to get the tub to fit, that's why you don't need a strap to hold the tank in - it's compressed between the tub and the cradle. That's also why the cradle and tank are a complete nightmare to get in and out of the vehicle once the body is on.

I have created an access hatch/panel directly above the fuel pump in mine after the fuel sender unit failed and I naively thought It'd be a "two minute" job to drop the cradle and tank, change the sender over and put the tank back in again. It's a complete ball ache of a job because the rear tub compresses the tank which pushes down on the cradle which sits on top of the chassis brackets.

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Thought I had it the wrong way round then! Would have been a nice fix...

Chassis is a 200tdi, but RIchard's Chassis have put the appropriate TD5 rear end parts on so that the rear tank will/should fit.

5-10mm seems like a lot of compressing for the tank though.... surely it would split eventually?

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Had a quick look underneath tonight...

image04n.jpg

As you can see, it's sat on a bit of chipboard at the mo, but you can see that the strut is already resting on the tank.

image00m.jpg

And from the back, same story.

Not sure how it's meant to compress that much?!

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