Rear Disc Brakes.............the build...............

[Snagger]

I was wondering how you got around the spring position problem - the 88s have the rear springs under the chassis rails while 109 have them outboard. I presume from the fact that you haven't moved the axle's spring saddles that you have moved the chassis spring hangers outboard as per a 109. That'd be the only way of fitting a 110's Salisbury axle to an 88 - the diff is slightly further across and has a flat section which acts as the bump stop - there would be no way of attaching the axle to the spring on that side in the standard 88" position.

[ejparrott]

He's got a 109 Nick

[Gazzar]

Glad I'm not the only one that does that!

G.

[Gremlin]

He's got a 109 Nick

Thank you...............i was trying to wonder what he was on about.....................he he he..............

[Snagger]

Ah - I thought you had an 88 for some reason...

[Gareth Dickens]

Good looking diff guard. Did u buy or make them? If you bought them and don't mind, how much?

[ejparrott]

Its a QT diff guard

[Gareth Dickens]

What do they go for in the UK?

[ejparrott]

According to google, something around the £60 mark

[Gremlin]

Update

Got some time to finally start assembly. Got the pinion in the diff with new bearings, a right pain to tighten up properly to spec!

Then came the heavy bit of inserting the diff center. This job should have been done with a case spreader to drop the diff in, in fact it was a real task to get the diff center to drop in. After several attempts of trying various methods the diff was eventually in with the help of a my trusty rubber mallet. The spreader would have made it drop in instaed of the tight fit.

While i was assembling the diff center, before fitting, this happened, i was lucky to stop in time before the bolt snapped!

Then came the cover and diff gaurd.

So now the diff center is done, next i turned to the hubs, mounted the new discs on, bearings and seals.

And finally the modified washers (under the new lock washers in the pic) that will keep the bearings nice a tight, as before they were bottoming out on the stub axle plain part, thus the bearing could never be tightened up.

Next update should be final assembly of the hubs and calipers, then its onto the landy to be run in!

G

[Snagger]

Ah - so you had that same problem with the bearing packing washers too. I bevelled the inside edges on one side of each washer to get around that problem, but I ended up using the 110's thicker washers in the end, rather than those thin SIII type. I'll be transferring the same type of QT diff guard from my fitted SIII axle to the 110 axle when I swap them over, and plan to do the same with the QT front diff guard (the Series/LHD type with the welded lugs either side of the pan, rather than the RHD Def type that reaches up around the top of the casing) - they're very good guards. So, my rrar axle will be just like yours except in length and diff ratio.

That calliper paint is a bit bling, isn't it?

[Gremlin]

Yes, after you had mentioned it i tried mounting the hubs and the bearings remained loose just a smidget. So i whipped out the die grinder and called them done.

G

[Gareth Dickens]

Gremlin, what discs are you running up front? What master cylinder are you using?

Reason I ask, is that I'm doing a front and rear disc conversion and I'm concerned about how my brake bias will end up. The front kit available to us uses Golf/Jetta 3 calipers with a 54mm (2 1/8") piston and since there are no kits for the rear I'm making my own using Audi A4 2.0 turbo calipers with a 40mm (1 5/16") piston. This should give me a 57%/43% brake bias (ignoring the difference in output from the 2 outlets of my mastercylinder- which is from an early defender). I'm fitting identical 12" discs front and rear.

If your setup ends up being a complete set from a 110 the bias should be great.

If you could share the piston diameters of your front and rear calipers with me it would be highly appreciated.

Thanks

Gareth

[Gremlin]

Hi, i am using a defender setup, so a defender 1994 master and calipers are from a 1996 defender 90 (or disco, source is obscure but they are the same anyway), discs, fronts are 110, 2001 rears, and rears are common 110 rears up to 2001 (which are also fronts for most models)

It should be ok, i know 110 calipers have bigger rear pads, basically my system will end up more like a standard tdi 90, but on a 109 wheelbase. I do not carry loads so it should be fine. I have been running the fronts for 4 years now and they stop the tdi just fine.

I based everything on using landrover components as much as possible, a) for availability of parts b) its a proven combination.

I could have made my life much easier if i fitted different calipers up front, but i was always unsure what would work so i played safe and used defender items.

G

[Snagger]

I have done mine much the same way as as Grem, but with a Discovery I system - the master cylinders are the same except the Discovery unit has an extra port for the front brake lines which are entirely separate, rather then T-eed at the chassis. I have Discovery, RRC or 90 front discs at the front, and the same at the rear which are standard 110/130 rear discs. Discovery/RRC/90 rear discs wouldn't fit the calipers without milling a lot off the callipers and their brackets, while the bigger discs' deeper profile allow the Discovery callipers to fit with a shim between the bracket and axle flange.

The brake bias is not significantly affected by disc size in this case - it's the size of the pads and the pressure exerted on them that matters. In LRs, the front callipers have four pistons and the rear just two. The pressure difference is further increased by a pressure reducer in the rear lines. So, running slightly mismatched rear discs and callipers has no detrimental effect other than that a wear ridge will devellop as the pads outer limit is a little less then the diameter of the discs, unlike at the front where they are matched. By keeping a full vehicle set (in my case Discovery, in Grem's case Defender), the balancing should be absolutely fine. My front axle is a Discovery axle anyway, so everything has remained standard on that (except the leaf spring mountings and rebuilding the callipers with stainless pistons).

Before anyone mentions it, the Max GVW for a Discovery I is only 50kg less than for a 109, but since the Discovery is so much faster and tows more, the system should be more than capable of dealing with a fully laden 109 and certainly better than the original drum system. Like Grem, I went for a 100% LR system for compatibility and for ease of sourcing spares.

[Retroanaconda]

I have done mine much the same way as as Grem, but with a Discovery I system - the master cylinders are the same except the Discovery unit has an extra port for the front brake lines which are entirely separate, rather then T-eed at the chassis.

Defender 1991-on master cylinders have seperate ports for the front brake lines, so three ports in total. Same as the Discovery one you describe.

[Snagger]

Defender 1991-on master cylinders have seperate ports for the front brake lines, so three ports in total. Same as the Discovery one you describe.

In that case, the only difference between the cylinders would be the reservoir they're fitted with - the Defender cylinder is fitted horizontally, so has a rectangular reservoir, while the Discovery/RRC cylinder is mounted on an incline and has a wedge shaped resevoir. I bought a complete TD5 Defender brake pedal and master cylinder assembly, and will be using the master cylinder from that mated to the Discovery servo and SIII pedal box (the Defender servo's diameter is too big, I think, but I'll test fit it first).

[Gremlin]

Yes with the defender servo you will have to trim the wing top. Mine fitted under the bonnet with no mods whatsoever to the bonnet itself.

G

[Snagger]

Well, I already have a Defender bonnet, but the wing top and steering column look like they will be within the servo circumference. This is the later, big flat servo.

[Gremlin]

Yes the flat big one. Pic below.

G

[Snagger]

That's the one. I see you used the Defender pedal box too - did you swap the pedal at all? I plan to retain the SIII pedal box so that the pedal height isn't increased and also so that the clutch and brake pedals still match (I obsess over things like that ). Did you modify the pedal box to account for the different foot well angle (and thus pedal position), or did you just fit it directly?

[Gremlin]

I have a defender bulkhead, sorry, so mine is a standard defender pedal no mods whatsoever.

G

[Gremlin]

Right, little time for a question to you people out there.

I am in a bit of a quandry, about the stub axles. I currently have 2 stubs from a 110 which have good seal lands but one of them at one time had the inner bearing spun, now the new bearing has a bit of clearance. I am a bit reluctant in using it.

Now being a budget build i honestly would not like to get new ones, so i rummaged around in my stocks and found a pair of stubs that came with my axle, they run same bearings as its from a late series 3. The problem is again this time one of them had a load of surface rust on the sead land. (axle stored outside with no hub!) But the bearing seats are perfect. So i do not know what to do.

What i have done till now is got the rusty stub and got polishing the land with 600 emery cloth, the result is pretty good, and there are no groves in the land, it not really pitted either. I guess with some more polishing i might be able to save them.

What do you all think?? run the one with the wonky bearing seat (put some bearing fit and call it done), or keep polishing the other set??

Pics to follow of the stubs up close when i get some time...............

[ejparrott]

I'd not use the one with a dodgy bearing land, unless you know someone in the business of hard chrome rebuilding and grinding.

[Snagger]

How bad is the wear on the bearing seat? If there's much of a step the hub will run off centre and the seal will leak (been there...). You could ask an engineering workshop if they couls sleeve the corroded seal land for you - there are slip-on bands made for the very purpose where the surface of the part is turned down slightly and the band then sweated on to give a new surface of the same diameter.

Failing that, I could keep my eyes open at Billing for you and bring it down to Malta next time I fly in (or get a colleague to do it for me) and ask the ground staff to take it through to you at the arrivals meeting point... I'll ask the staff when I'm there on Tuesday morning.