missingsid Posted January 15, 2012 Share Posted January 15, 2012 I need to do the swivels as well - I just didn't want to get started and then find out I needed such and such parts as well which were either unavailable or a silly price ... When I did mine I just bought a complete pair of corners real easy to swap and covers everything you need including swivels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smokeyone Posted January 16, 2012 Author Share Posted January 16, 2012 Thanks again all for the info - I know I am going to get stuck again on the braking layout but I know where to come to find the answers - cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BSF Posted January 20, 2012 Share Posted January 20, 2012 I may have missed it, but no-one seems to have mentioned a disc brake conversion. Not cheap, but well worth it. Rocky Mountain and others do various kits; I've converted two and they now stop, reliably and in a straight line. Always. You will need a servo unless you want to put both feet on the pedal. Theoretically it upsets the front/rear braking balance, but I have not had any problems. I am now standing by to shout "Incoming" and dive into a trench for posting the above herecy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobotMan Posted January 20, 2012 Share Posted January 20, 2012 It's been mentioned dozens of times. If you look in the tech section there is a detailed write up on how to do it. Some people prefer originality others don't like messing about with brakes. Some insurers are fussy about such things and the kits are very spendy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted January 20, 2012 Share Posted January 20, 2012 Why not go for a disk conversion instead? Less asjustment issues for sure, and a doddle to change pads as opposed to shoes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gremlin Posted January 21, 2012 Share Posted January 21, 2012 I may have missed it, but no-one seems to have mentioned a disc brake conversion. Not cheap, but well worth it. Rocky Mountain and others do various kits; I've converted two and they now stop, reliably and in a straight line. Always. You will need a servo unless you want to put both feet on the pedal. Theoretically it upsets the front/rear braking balance, but I have not had any problems. I am now standing by to shout "Incoming" and dive into a trench for posting the above herecy. http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=22910 my take on front discs............................ Balance is fine with rear drums as well.............. G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ron roberts Posted October 9, 2017 Share Posted October 9, 2017 you can fead the front TLS cylinders by using the lower blead nipple with the brakingpipe from the master cylinder then fit a link pipe to olsothe upper cylinder you must have the blead nipple at the top cylinder ,And whilst your at it change to the non water absorbant brake fluid also in case you do go for disk brakes you will have to fit longer wheel studs Whitch is a simple job IE drive out the shost studs best done with two hammers 1 hamer on the stud and hit with hamer no 2 less chance of missing ,To fit longer studs place hub on upturnsd drum with long studs partley in place and use the same 2 hammers to drive them fully in place This way when you come to put the road wheels on you have not got BENT STUDS yours THE INOVATER Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted October 10, 2017 Share Posted October 10, 2017 Never ever hit two hammers together!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted October 11, 2017 Share Posted October 11, 2017 11 hours ago, ejparrott said: Never ever hit two hammers together!!! Was about to say that, bu thought nahh this guy knows it all and is an innovator 😂 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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