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Valve Clearance


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Hi all, fairly new to world of mechanics so sorry if wrong terms used :) So i have new rocker arms and currently none of them are touching the valves or tops of pushrods (they can be rocked from side to side) i know about the rule of 9 but how do i know where to start the procces as currenly i cant see if a vavle should be closed. hope someone can help want to get out in the snow lol

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Yes the rule of 9 applies however there is a correct sequence to carry this out.

Valve fully open Valve to be adjusted

6 3

4 5

7 2

1 8

3 6

5 4

2 7

8 1

A dial guage is a good idea to ensure that the "valve fully open" push rod is actually at the top of its stroke. another good idea is to replace the 8 small valve caps at teh same time as they take a hell of a hammering and have been known to disintegrate

Tappet gap is 0.2mm

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A dial guage is a good idea to ensure that the "valve fully open" push rod is actually at the top of its stroke.

That's not at all necessary. The sequence is designed so that the rocker to be adjusted is on a low spot on the cam, thus remaining free for quite a while. Just keep an eye on the valve that should be open, and when it starts going back up you start the adjustment.

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I don't use the nine rule.

Turn engine to TDC.

Are the valves rocking on No 4 or No1 ? Which ever they rock on set the other two...Then turn the engine until another pair of valves rock, setting the opposite pair of valves.

Set hot or cold I believe the book says.

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ok thanks for all the advise, put all back together today and though all was good. ran up to temp and stayed there nicley then started to run lumpy and now seems to run like it all the time. starts and stops ok. no creamy liquid or smoke. could it be head gasket or badly adjusted valves ???

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I don't use the nine rule.

Turn engine to TDC.

Are the valves rocking on No 4 or No1 ? Which ever they rock on set the other two...Then turn the engine until another pair of valves rock, setting the opposite pair of valves.

Set hot or cold I believe the book says.

Yes, the easiest way IMO :D

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Both methods of adjusting are fine, probably a matter of preference.

If using the "rule of 9" you can start anywhere, and adjust the appropriate valve whenever it's mate is open,

as they open. Otherwise, going in strict order, 1,2,3, etc involves a lot of engine turning.

Do write out the full list on paper and mark them off as you adjust them, whichever way you go.

It's easy to get lost!

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If you start at number 6 as per the sequence above and adjust valve 3 then the next valve to come up for adjustment is valve 5 then 2 etc. You can start at any valve you want to using the "9" rule but you end up having to turn the engine over more than is ofherwise nessersary. Its far simpler to start at valve 3 fully down, adjust valve 6 gap etc.

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Plese don't try the "nine" ruls on a 5, 6, or 8 cylinder engine. I learnt to set tappets on a 5 cylinder WITHOUT feeler gauges, never got them wrong.

As for running lumpy.

Have you re-checked the tappets ? You could have one tight or slack.

Have you cracked each injector pipe in turn to see what it's doing.

Which head gasket did you use ?

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Ok so managed to get out to landy this evening. found one loose rocker and an injector not getting fuel (put down toair lock as now working) but still not running rite sounds a bit rough and lumpy and slightly tiny does seem to smoke a bit when you let go of throttle but was still cold and not anymore than i remember.

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Are you sure that the timing is right? One cog out on the FIP or the camshaft -- or both :blink: and you will have a very lumpy engine, take it for a decent run then check the timing and once its cooled down re-check the valve clearances.

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