BFRieck Posted February 8, 2012 Share Posted February 8, 2012 I need (I think) to have the front end aligned on my Series III (Ex Mod 109 FFR). Can anyone supply me with the caster/camber and toe-in/toe-out specs? Are there any other specs needed or quirks to doing a front end alignment? Chances are the small town shop I'll use will have seen few, if any, Series LR's. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ratty43 Posted February 8, 2012 Share Posted February 8, 2012 Series 111 owners manual gives the following: Front wheel toe-in: 1.2mm-2.4mm. Camber angle: 1.5 degrees. Caster angle: 3 degrees. Swivel pin inclination: 7 degrees. As far as I know only the tracking can be adjusted though, the rest is set by the axle and thus fixed. That said my 88" always looked like one front wheel had a different camber to the other. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted February 8, 2012 Share Posted February 8, 2012 Yup, only tracking adjustable as standard, the rest is fixed although, someone did fit military shackles, and had wedges to tilt the diff round to compensate IIRC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted February 8, 2012 Share Posted February 8, 2012 if it looks to have an odd camber the chances are your swivel bearings have gone. worth checking Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted February 8, 2012 Share Posted February 8, 2012 agreed, had this on the 88 when we bought her, scrubbed a set of tyres somat rotten Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BFRieck Posted February 8, 2012 Author Share Posted February 8, 2012 Tracking meaning toe-in, correct? The tires that came on it looked to be original (Goodyear bias ply mud-grips stamped "made in Morocco"; can't remember the date code but they look to be at least 20-30 years old). One of the front tires was badly cupped, one was nearly new, the other two were pretty well worn, but evenly, and the spare was worn but didn't match any of the others. However, The truck is an ex MoD (Series III, FFR 109) from South Africa, only 9,000 km on the clock (believable based on appearances, wear, etc.,) so I'm guessing a random set of tires was fixed when it was de-milled and sold on. How does one check the swivel bearings and what life should be expected out of them - can't imagine 9,000 km would be enough to wear them out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted February 8, 2012 Share Posted February 8, 2012 Jack up one corner, place on axle stand for safety, as always. Grab wheel at 12 and 6 o'clock and rock. there should be no appreciable play - but! knackered wheel bearings can catch you on this so get an assisstant to check where the movement is. When i checked my 88, there was distinct movement and 'clunk'. the green bible has a section on replacement and adjustment of swivel bearings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted February 8, 2012 Share Posted February 8, 2012 well if the wheel has movement in both 12-6 oclock and 9-3 oclock then its the wheelbearing if the wheel has play only top to bottom then its the swivel bearings 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted February 8, 2012 Share Posted February 8, 2012 well if the wheel has movement in both 12-6 oclock and 9-3 oclock then its the wheelbearing OR, the wheel bearing AND the swivel bearing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted February 8, 2012 Share Posted February 8, 2012 and possibly the steering relay.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BFRieck Posted February 9, 2012 Author Share Posted February 9, 2012 Thanks so much everyone. I'll be trying to tend to this on the weekend. Hope it's not any of that stuff and I REALLY hope it's not all of it! How unlucky would I have to be to have bad wheel bearings, bad swivel bearings, AND a bad steering relay - especially when I think I have a little used truck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted February 9, 2012 Share Posted February 9, 2012 The kingpins are adjustable if play is small - there should be shims under the steering arm and the top cap . I'd be inclined to pull the top pin with the wheel off and the hub/outer swivel hsg supported and check the railko bush and thrust pad , these do wear or break up if left dry thru lack of use - its splash lubed as the driveshafts rotate in use cheers Steveb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted February 9, 2012 Share Posted February 9, 2012 even if it is all of those things. its not an expensive fix. but it probably isnt anyway. wheelbearings can be tightened aswell to a certian extent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BFRieck Posted February 13, 2012 Author Share Posted February 13, 2012 I just got back from spending the weekend messing with the Series III at the ranch. I couldn't find any play either direction in the front wheels so I am assuming the wheel bearings and the swivel bearings are okay. Got it out on the highway and drove it all of 63 mph (I think that's top speed, no?) The tires were dusty when I started and the dust was cleaned off quite evenly across the face of all 4 tires - steering doesn't pull either way - tracks nice and straight. I'm hoping that means all is well, although I still plan to get the toe-in checked at first opportunity. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted February 13, 2012 Share Posted February 13, 2012 My 88 has been over 85mph.....it gets scary after that! It does have a 200TDi and rangy diffs though...and an OD...and 750 tyres... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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