CVs

[dollythelw]

well maybe just a little bit (soz) Im just curious to see which bit of the axle conversion is easier, I love engineering so its good (for me anyway) to see other approaches and base units

[honitonhobbit]

The Old Patrol HR160/M series had very strong under carriage. The old Chevy Engined LWB we used as a tow bus and ozone destroyer never bust a damn thing, despite 33" MIckey T's/MTs with chains in mud/Hauling a fully laden artic/Mark abuse/douhnuts in Waitrose car park by the Monnow Bridge.

Good old bus really...

I would happily give up on LRs if I could find a decent HR160 3.3Turbo - leaf springs are gods way of saying slow down

[landrover598]

Seven Sisters- 4:45pm on Sunday in the waterfall- november -5 degrees and quite damp.

Reversing up a bank with full lock. Bit of boot. Bang. CV completely destroyed.

The fact that the CV had been making some nasty noises for quite a few months prior to it's failure didn't help though

[reads90]

I guess its a straightforward fitment Al, Reads90, how long does it take you to re-fab the mountings when you've done it in the past? radius arm mounts/panhard rod, spring perches etc, Ive only seen a couple of these conversions but never had a chance to get up close to them

are the base axles cheap then?

Fitting a nissan axel on the front is easy almost straight fit. Just need to change the steering arm . Rest is the same.

[reads90]

Ali - am I reading this right? - You're saying the nissan ones are as strong as the uprated LR ones, which are still breakable. In which case why would it be better to bolt a new axle under a LR than just stick a pair of uprated CV's in? unless it's cheaper and quicker to fit the Nissan ones why would you bother? Diff ratio? Clearance? Weight?

Not digging, just doesn't sound quite right to me (but then what do I know )

if you ae starting from strach. then nissan axel is the way to go. Come as 4.11 (so no need to change that). Shafts are nearly (if not as) strong as ashcrofts and maxi drive. CV's lot stronger than Land Rover ones. Remember the axel is bulit for a patrol which is alot heaver than a range rover. Never mind a 90.

And as has been said already breaking cv's does come unner a bit of driver error and yes if you can break the land rover toughened ones. They are not that strong.

BTW Nissan ones are seen to be as strong as Toyota ones

[reads90]

ok

i am a landy fan and had 23 of them but some times you have to admit defeat. And land rover axels are not the strongest in the market.

way to go is put a nissan front axel on the front, as they are 4.11 (so lower gearing for bigger tires), and bigger , stronge shafts, and stronger cv's of the shelf.

But you then want to put a toyota axle in the rear. Why toyota, well because the nissan rear is not s afloating axel. But the toyota one akso comes as a 4.11 diff and has stronger half shafts again.

BTW the stud patterns on the toyota and nissan are the same so you just run a set of toyota rims or nissan rims

Again remebr these axles are bulit by people who have copied land rover and made them stronger and for alot heaver trucks

Notice anything in common

[honitonhobbit]

All fine and dandy if you live in a country littered with the wrecks of Nissans and Toyotas. So much easier to spend the dosh you would blow on a Nissan/Toy axle on Ashcroft kit and then have a holiday on what is left!

I have always like the front and rear 80 series cruiser conversion myself but feel that if I lived in Oz, I would do as my BiL has done - buy a bl**dy 'cruiser!

[reads90]

All fine and dandy if you live in a country littered with the wrecks of Nissans and Toyotas. So much easier to spend the dosh you would blow on a Nissan/Toy axle on Ashcroft kit and then have a holiday on what is left!

I have always like the front and rear 80 series cruiser conversion myself but feel that if I lived in Oz, I would do as my BiL has done - buy a bl**dy 'cruiser!

Nissan stuff is not that expensive in the UK.

And your right you might as well buy a cruiser but i don't like them

Know and trust Landys and know their week points and strengths

[dirtydiesel]

Nissan stuff is not that expensive in the UK.

And your right you might as well buy a cruiser but i don't like them

Know and trust Landys and know their week points and strengths

You think landrovers have any strengths!

Has the sun down there completely baked your brain?

[reads90]

You think landrovers have any strengths!

Has the sun down there completely baked your brain?

ok fair point , but i know them and i know what breaks in them and how to fix them. Plus i like the fact that you are the underdog here. Like to be in somthing a bit differant and unlike everone else in a Toyota and Nissan. Plus as standard they are heavy trucks and long wheel bases. Think they are just too big, even when changed to a winch challenge truck

[bill van snorkle]

As I stated in a previous post, I don't disagree that Nissan stuff is stronger than LandRover stuff. Hell even Suzuki stuff is stronger. But in my pre portal days, after fitting Salisbury diffs front and rear, the only mechanical failures I had were CV joints. And the simple fact is that Pre GU Nissan CV's are the same size as Landy AEU2522/ Toyota ones, but the stub shafts are shorter and there is no stronger option available, unlike the Ashcroft /Longfield ones for Land Rover and Toyota. Even with a beefed up 24 spline Rover diff and 4.75 crown wheel and pinion my friends hybrids weakest link is the CV joints.

As for fitting Nissan axle assemblies. The Nissan front radius arms line up and plug straight in to Rover chassis brackets, The length of the arms is apparently near enough, so coils line up ok. The panhard rod and drag link needs to be a hybrid of Rover and Nissan. If the castor angle is wrong, don't try heating up and bending the Nissan radius arms. They shatter.

When doing the rear end don't use Nissan lower control arms. They are made from exhaust pipe tubing..

You have to make an ''A'' frame ball joint mount for the top of the diff because the Nissan has a 4 links setup as standard, and the nissan diff is in the centre of the axle, which also reduces the effective cross axle ramp angle.

Bill.

[reads90]

As I stated in a previous post, I don't disagree that Nissan stuff is stronger than LandRover stuff. Hell even Suzuki stuff is stronger. But in my pre portal days, after fitting Salisbury diffs front and rear, the only mechanical failures I had were CV joints. And the simple fact is that Pre GU Nissan CV's are the same size as Landy AEU2522/ Toyota ones, but the stub shafts are shorter and there is no stronger option available, unlike the Ashcroft /Longfield ones for Land Rover and Toyota. Even with a beefed up 24 spline Rover diff and 4.75 crown wheel and pinion my friends hybrids weakest link is the CV joints.

As for fitting Nissan axle assemblies. The Nissan front radius arms line up and plug straight in to Rover chassis brackets, The length of the arms is apparently near enough, so coils line up ok. The panhard rod and drag link needs to be a hybrid of Rover and Nissan. If the castor angle is wrong, don't try heating up and bending the Nissan radius arms. They shatter.

When doing the rear end don't use Nissan lower control arms. They are made from exhaust pipe tubing..

You have to make an ''A'' frame ball joint mount for the top of the diff because the Nissan has a 4 links setup as standard, and the nissan diff is in the centre of the axle, which also reduces the effective cross axle ramp angle.

Bill.

Hence why you use a 80 Series Toyota rear axel. as i said before they are floating axels like Land Rover where as the nissans are not. Plus the toyota diff is in the right place.

You have to bend the front radius arms if you fit toyota axels on the front. But if you really want to do this then you bend the rover ones at the are cast and will take it, and not the toyota ones. But you have to then get them xrayed for satey sake. But i personally don't want to do this . Hence the nissan front and toyota rears

[bill van snorkle]

Hence why you use a 80 Series Toyota rear axel. as i said before they are floating axels like Land Rover where as the nissans are not. Plus the toyota diff is in the right place.

You have to bend the front radius arms if you fit toyota axels on the front. But if you really want to do this then you bend the rover ones at the are cast and will take it, and not the toyota ones. But you have to then get them xrayed for satey sake. But i personally don't want to do this . Hence the nissan front and toyota rears

Full floating really isn't really that important on axles that don't break. but offset is important for swb Rovers, so yes Toyota LC rear is a good choice for the rear. But most of the participants of this thread are in the UK, and apparently Nissan Patrol and Landcruiser axle assemblies are rare and expensive, unlike over here where you can pick up a pair of Nissan GQ axle/diff assemblies for the equivelant of about 400 Pounds, sometimes with a factory difflock on the rear. But even over here it is still the lack of uprateability of the cv's that would dissuade me from taking the trouble of fitting anything other than GU Patrol or 80/100 series Toyota front axle assemblies to a Rover.

Bill.

[white90]

the choice is fairly easy for UK based L/R owners now

you can buy and fit proven CV's from Ashcroft

or spend lots of time/money on fitting Toyota/Nissan or Portals

unless you can do the work yourself like Jez/Andy M etc

the choice is a simple one IMHO

keeping L/R running gear with an excellent upgrade from ashcroft

using shafts of your own choice.

the majority of users here only use up to 36" tyres.

if you want bullet proof reliability the 101s would be my prefrence over any Toy/nissan gear.

if Pete hasn't broken anything then I know of no one that will.

[reads90]

the choice is fairly easy for UK based L/R owners now

you can buy and fit proven CV's from Ashcroft

or spend lots of time/money on fitting Toyota/Nissan or Portals

unless you can do the work yourself like Jez/Andy M etc

the choice is a simple one IMHO

keeping L/R running gear with an excellent upgrade from ashcroft

using shafts of your own choice.

the majority of users here only use up to 36" tyres.

if you want bullet proof reliability the 101s would be my prefrence over any Toy/nissan gear.

if Pete hasn't broken anything then I know of no one that will.

Yeah i see what you mean tony . It is really expensive in the UK

toyota rear axel

Nissan

and that was a 5 min seach

[bill van snorkle]

That Nissan appears to be an MQ which is leaf sprung and narrower than a coil sprung Rover and from memory has smaller diameter cv's than Rover. Unless the Toyota axle is off an 80 series it will be too narrow as well.

Bill.

[reads90]

That Nissan appears to be an MQ which is leaf sprung and narrower than a coil sprung Rover and from memory has smaller diameter cv's than Rover.

Bill.

yeah but i was just trying to point out that nissan and toyotas don't have the value that they do in aus. where they are rated more and therfore cost more second hand

[dollythelw]

so is the advice go for the £30 or £70 CV's?

[bill van snorkle]

yeah but i was just trying to point out that nissan and toyotas don't have the value that they do in aus. where they are rated more and therfore cost more second hand

Yes they are rated much more highly than Rovers,and for good reason,but because they tend to be mechanically more bulletproof,with the possible exception of Birfields, the price of used components is generally lower than for Rovers due to lower demand. ie at swap meets you can struggle to give away GQ/GU nissan gearbox/ transfercase assemblies, rear Toyota/Nissan diffs etc, wheras LandRover parts get snapped up faily early. Your experience in Queensland may be different but in the larger capitals this is the case.

Bill.

[jules]

Yes they are rated much more highly than Rovers,and for good reason,but because they tend to be mechanically more bulletproof,with the possible exception of Birfields, the price of used components is generally lower than for Rovers due to lower demand. ie at swap meets you can struggle to give away GQ/GU nissan gearbox/ transfercase assemblies, rear Toyota/Nissan diffs etc, wheras LandRover parts get snapped up faily early. Your experience in Queensland may be different but in the larger capitals this is the case.

Bill.

In the UK the Toyota parts are very cheap as very few if any poeple by second hand parts for them...

That was why I raced freelander due second hand or brackers yards parts being soooo cheap, regardless of there price new

[white90]

Yeah i see what you mean tony . It is really expensive in the UK

toyota rear axel

Nissan

and that was a 5 min seach

that is a a suprise really

but I stand by my choice to keep rover bits.

I guess a few more Toy converted ones will appear.

[reads90]

that is a a suprise really

but I stand by my choice to keep rover bits.

I guess a few more Toy converted ones will appear.

as i said before . If you are starting from strach then worth considering. ARB lockers are all the same price , but would not need half shafts upgrades.

[LandyManLuke]

so is the advice go for the £30 or £70 CV's?

Cheers Jez,

That's something i'm still pondering. trouble is, at the mo, any post relating to absolutely anything regarding axles normally ends up with 'fit portals', or long off topic replies like the last 3 pages.

Portals, and axle swaps, are off the cards at least on the 90, once i've got the rr bob project on the go that might be a different story, but all i was after was some advice, or experience on which CVs to fit.

how about a portals board?

PS, i'm not dissing what you, Dan, Andy or anyone has done re portals, it all rocks, it's just not what i asked about!

Luke

[MogLite]

Nissan

and that was a 5 min seach

Hmm - I need a winter hack - that Nissan might fit the bit !!!!

[dollythelw]

I know what you're saying Luke, drifting OT is something of an epidemic - I think Dave Ashcroft answered your question a few pages back, good luck with the projects though and ping some pics up in the members vehicles forum?

Cheers