Propshafts for project

[PieEater3142]

So my 110 is getting there (hope to have her going in for MOT come April - fingers crossed) but it's come to the point where I really need propshafts.

The back story here is that my 90 chews through UJ's (despite regular greasing) due to the soft 2" lift - sticks to the road but plenty of roll - really nice drive.

Anyway I am determined with the 110 that I will not spend my days changing GKN UJ's every 4-6months. I have been um'ing and er'ing about some gwyn lewis ones for quite a while now but they are REALLY pricey.

I want to get wide angle propshafts now so that I don't have to worry about it down the line when I stick OME 2" lift (when I can afford it). Gwyn Lewis have Morris Bailey and GKN propshafts but I can't see a great deal of difference in them except the price and an extra greasable bit.

The 110 is going to be for overlanding (Alps and one day Africa if I can raise the funds) and green lanes rather than pay and play days (not going to do Core 4x4 down in Hambrook with her). So the question is - is it worth putting Gwyn lewis props on and would I notice any advantage to the Morris Bailey over the GKN ones?

[landroversforever]

I have the Gwyn Lewis GKN ones and they are superb. Personally I couldn't justify the BM cost.

[mmgemini]

I run standard Land Rover, Well GKN props on my Defender.

Where will you buy or source these parts in Africa ?

My Defender runs standard 130 suspension on a 110. I've only had to change two u/ j's in 120,000 miles. One in Botswana as a precaution as I had access to workshop facilities.

The second when the front prop decided to part places at the u/ j wrecking the prop.

Like you my props are serviced correctly. We discussed this when the prop broke and it seems that the 110 likes to shed the u/ j at the transfer box.

Why use a two inch lift ? What will that achieve ?

Using the 130 rear springs gives you a tree inch lift at the back letting you carry the weight without the rear sagging

My ten bobs worth.

[GBMUD]

(not going to do Core 4x4 down in Hambrook with her)

Nor is anyone else!

I would stick to standard height suspension. It is fine for UK green laning, ideal for overlanding and will not knock out UJs on stock props. My 110 has had one new UJ in 110000 miles - guess what? I have not buggered about with the suspension!

Chris

[PieEater3142]

On the 90 I had to replace the front prop after the UJ sheared at the transfer box end was doing 65 down the M3 at the time, never been so scared in my life. Thankfully I had chequer plate on the floor but there is a nice dent where it tried to rip my ankle off. Only time I've purposefully locked the brakes up and skidded to a stop!

Thought if I had to buy some prop shafts then I might as well spend an extra £150 and get some that wouldn't need replacing should I put a lift on in the future etc.,

Thinking like Ross atm that GKN are the way forward. extra £100 for the Bailey Morris ones

[PieEater3142]

Nor is anyone else!

I would stick to standard height suspension. It is fine for UK green laning, ideal for overlanding and will not knock out UJs on stock props. My 110 has had one new UJ in 110000 miles - guess what? I have not buggered about with the suspension!

Chris

Sad times about core - but then it did make my rad turn into a clay oven and overheat on the way home and stop me opening the bonnet - so much clay mud!!!

Well I'm not lifting now but I just want to futureproof now rather than buying twice

[simonr]

Although you said you had used GKN UJ's, they are not all the same.

I would keep whatever shafts you have and buy Genuine UJ's from a main dealer. I don't want to get in to an arguement about how genuine ones from britpart are just the same but 1/10th the cost - the fact is they are not. I bought 4 'Genuine' UJ's from our favorite distributors of such things. All were GKN, two were in Land Rover boxes but the one from the main dealer differed in two main ways. Firstly the seals were encapsulated in a metal band (bonded) to increase the pressure against the two sealing surfaces and secondly, the needle rollers were 50% bigger diameter - meaning they don't have to roll as far for a given deflection.

The only joints I've found that are reliably good are from a main dealer. Ultimately, the only thing that will make a Gwyn Lewis or BM prop last longer is decent UJ's - so you might as well just put decent ones in your existing prop.

Si

[PieEater3142]

I have no prop shafts at the moment, hence thinking might be worth splurging out an extra £100 now and get wide angle just in case

Yes proper UJ's are key - I have as I said learnt this the hard way with one going on me at 65mph without warning, car bounced once and then the floor pan came towards me.

[simonr]

In that case I'd buy a genuine shaft on eBay or at Newbury Sortout and change the UJ's if necessary.

Si

[Orgasmic Farmer]

There have been a few genuine 110 rear props on Ebay lately as I have been after one. Some BIN for £75 ish. I bought a genuine LR Puma one BNIB by auction for £52... They are 111cm long which is, as far as I can tell, identical to the 300 tdi ones with a salisbury rear axle.

[landy V8]

even with a 2" lift on my 110 i'm still running standard props front/rear and have had no problem with them at all.it's been used both on and offroad(pay and play/greenlane).