barriesheene Posted April 10, 2012 Share Posted April 10, 2012 Anybody got any tips on how to get 15 year old ball joints off the end of the track rod ?????? I think I've just given myself a hernia . Think I nearly lifted the disco off the axle stands with my bare hands at one point Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fozsug Posted April 10, 2012 Share Posted April 10, 2012 lots of WD40 in the split and/or heat and a long tube over the end Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted April 10, 2012 Share Posted April 10, 2012 Plus gas releasing oil is better, proper realieasing oil. get as much oil in as you can into the 2 splits on the rod end, might have to tap with a steel hammer too shock the thread into opening up a bit. You'll probably find it easier in the long run just to take it off the vehicle, I ended up doing this the last disco track rod end I replaced. Mav Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duncmc Posted April 10, 2012 Share Posted April 10, 2012 When I did mine on the Defender I have recently sold, I used loads of heat and penetrating fluid. In the end it took a mates oxyacetylene torch to get it cherry red before it would move! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sean f Posted April 10, 2012 Share Posted April 10, 2012 When I did mine on the Defender I have recently sold, I used loads of heat and penetrating fluid. In the end it took a mates oxyacetylene torch to get it cherry red before it would move! With the price of a new track rod I think I would be inclined to change the lot, a bit of heat and a hammering is one thing, taking it to cherry red MIGHT change the metalurgy enough to weaken it, I do stress it only might weaken it but this is a very safety critical item. So if the vehicle is going to be used at speed or under heavy load is it really worth taking the risk, also if one track rod end has gone the other is unlikely to be far behind. There was a fatal accident a few years back where a track rod end failed and I believe the vehicle hit a wall at speed, that was due to the incorrect track rod end being fitted. (Early series vehicles used track rod ends with the first inch or so un threaded and the clamp on the tube fitted over this part, a later track rod end with the thread all the way up was used resulting in the clamp not gripping correctly, I suspect some corrosion was also involved but don't think this was mentioned at the inquiry). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barriesheene Posted April 10, 2012 Author Share Posted April 10, 2012 Looks as tho I've got the same problem with the bottom nuts on the rear shocks as well . Had a new windscreen fitted this morning yipee ! Then spent 4 hours getting frustrated and a hernia. I'll take the track rod off tomorrow and see how it goes. Dont know what I'm going to do about the bottom shock nut tho. Looks as tho I'll have to try and grind it off both sides. Whoa is me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted April 10, 2012 Share Posted April 10, 2012 With the price of a new track rod I think I would be inclined to change the lot, a bit of heat and a hammering is one thing, taking it to cherry red MIGHT change the metalurgy enough to weaken it, I do stress it only might weaken it but this is a very safety critical item. So if the vehicle is going to be used at speed or under heavy load is it really worth taking the risk, also if one track rod end has gone the other is unlikely to be far behind. There was a fatal accident a few years back where a track rod end failed and I believe the vehicle hit a wall at speed, that was due to the incorrect track rod end being fitted. (Early series vehicles used track rod ends with the first inch or so un threaded and the clamp on the tube fitted over this part, a later track rod end with the thread all the way up was used resulting in the clamp not gripping correctly, I suspect some corrosion was also involved but don't think this was mentioned at the inquiry). When replacing the track rod end on a previous vehicle that had failed it's MOT (non land rover) the MOT bloke said it would fail if he thought excessive heat had been used. http://www.motinfo.gov.uk/htdocs/m4s02000204.htm inappropriate structural modification or repair by welding to a steering linkage component, or signs of excessive heat having been applied Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duncmc Posted April 10, 2012 Share Posted April 10, 2012 When replacing the track rod end on a previous vehicle that had failed it's MOT (non land rover) the MOT bloke said it would fail if he thought excessive heat had been used. http://www.motinfo.g...m4s02000204.htm inappropriate structural modification or repair by welding to a steering linkage component, or signs of excessive heat having been applied Ok, maybe I did exagerate a bit there. The guy that did it for me is an ex MOT tester and has been a proffesional mechanic for about 40 years. Before that he has been did race car prep and has worked in a metal testing department. So he knows what he is doing. It did take a quite lot of heat to crack it though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted April 10, 2012 Share Posted April 10, 2012 Ok, maybe I did exagerate a bit there. The guy that did it for me is an ex MOT tester and has been a proffesional mechanic for about 40 years. Before that he has been did race car prep and has worked in a metal testing department. So he knows what he is doing. It did take a quite lot of heat to crack it though. Fair enough, I wasn't lecturing or owt, just didn't want someone to do all that work and then possibly have the MOT man say no. To be honest when looking up the relevant section I came across a discussion on an mottesters forum which basically showed that the testers couldn't make their mind up how much heat was excessive ..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duncmc Posted April 11, 2012 Share Posted April 11, 2012 Fair enough, I wasn't lecturing or owt, just didn't want someone to do all that work and then possibly have the MOT man say no. To be honest when looking up the relevant section I came across a discussion on an mottesters forum which basically showed that the testers couldn't make their mind up how much heat was excessive ..... A very good point to make though especially when safety is involved. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sean f Posted April 11, 2012 Share Posted April 11, 2012 Ok, maybe I did exagerate a bit there. The guy that did it for me is an ex MOT tester and has been a proffesional mechanic for about 40 years. Before that he has been did race car prep and has worked in a metal testing department. So he knows what he is doing. It did take a quite lot of heat to crack it though. No problem this is why I stressed that it MIGHT be a problem, if the person doing the work knows there stuff then they will get it to the right point and stop. I have seen people try this in the past with oxy and actually partially melt the metal which is to far. Really a case of if you are not sure find some one that knows especially with anything safety related, its not just the drivers at risk its poetentially the people in the other car that gets hit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barriesheene Posted April 11, 2012 Author Share Posted April 11, 2012 Ordered a new complete track rod assembly I've got a full set of ball joints as spares now tho lesson learnt. Try and get the old stuff off first before buying the new ! Gotta tackle those bottom rear shock nuts now. Where did I put that grinder ??????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted April 11, 2012 Share Posted April 11, 2012 Ordered a new complete track rod assembly I've got a full set of ball joints as spares now tho lesson learnt. Try and get the old stuff off first before buying the new ! Gotta tackle those bottom rear shock nuts now. Where did I put that grinder ??????? Nut splitters are great, used one on an exhaust the other day, nice bang and off she came with the bolt undamaged Would one work on the shock nut? although if you are replacing them I don't suppose it matters Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveturnbull Posted April 11, 2012 Share Posted April 11, 2012 Ordered a new complete track rod assembly I've got a full set of ball joints as spares now tho lesson learnt. Try and get the old stuff off first before buying the new ! Gotta tackle those bottom rear shock nuts now. Where did I put that grinder ??????? Got an impact wrench? May just make the impossible possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barriesheene Posted April 16, 2012 Author Share Posted April 16, 2012 Cut through either side of the bolt as close as I could and off she came . MOT PASS TODAY !!!!!! Whoop Whoop Thanks for all the help guys. I really appreciate it. Got a bit of knowledge now that I can pass on to others to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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