Guest Posted April 13, 2012 Share Posted April 13, 2012 I was a good boy last year and for Christmas Mrs S brought me a Frontier Stove a great bit of kit for cooking on and keeping warm it has proved it's worth this week, and scratches the itch of having a fire even on a 'normal' camp site as it leaves no marks or burns etc. Now these stoves were designed as tent stoves to fit inside UN disaster relief units and many people use them in bell tent type units fitting a cowl we have been using our in our Hannibal awning at the door and although I am not about to cut a hole in the awning would like to bring the stove all the way inside as at the moment it's about half and half. My question therefore is, if I make/have made a bit of flue section that would kick out the flue further backwards straight-45-straight configuration would the flue still work? how much would a section like this effect the draw of the flue? Are there any calculations for working out the draw of a flue hight/diameter/size of fire? Anyone done anything similar? Thanks, Jason. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sirocco Posted April 13, 2012 Share Posted April 13, 2012 mine is cut at a slight angle, still draws and works fine. I guess its the same as anything, you just try to reduce airflow as little as possible. For your/our needs I wouldn't go for anything 45-90 degrees. <45 you shouldn't see any negative effect (especially with thw flue damper open and the door wide open.) Wrapped it in exhaust wrap to reduce heat, but it still gets too hot. My hannibal is hook and loop not zip like later ones so I can undo 2-3 bits and poke it out of the top. I have been resting it on a piece of wood, not ideal but its as far as I have got. Probably going to cut a hole in the front panel, to the side and fit one of their cowl things. G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete3000 Posted April 14, 2012 Share Posted April 14, 2012 You could use a twin walled flue where it exits the tent, to allow the heat to pass on the inner and the outer cooler tube the tent is sealed around. Found some flue pics here, not sure about the stoves? http://www.belltent.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=58&gclid=CIuJ_OXms68CFcwTfAod5xTEhg You probably know the other bit to go with the chimney, let enough cold air into the tent to allow the stove to burn clean. Your half in, half out is a nice fail safe. Couple killed last year from bringing in their disposable bbq's later at night to use the bit of warmth after food was done. They pulled the bbq's into their fairly big dome tent and zipped it shut. They were found dead the next day from carbon monoxide poisoning. Most carbon based fuels/gas/petrol etc will do this if there isn't enough oxygen to burn. Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted April 14, 2012 Share Posted April 14, 2012 Thank Pete, we had a twin wall flue with the pool heater as it was in a wooden building the problem with that is the flue packs up inside the stove so I want to keep the current single wall flue. I am happy with the position of the fire in the awning with the door open as closing a door with two children becomes a game of attrition!!! Just wanted to bring the fire into the awning a little more and out of the rain!! I will buy a flue section and get the welder out and give it a go. As for the warning about the CO warning always worth a reminder but is something I am very aware of, and always cautious of even cooking in an enclosed space, I see these new sealed tents (sewn in ground sheet etc) and do wonder how safe they are? And how aware people are that they need O2 for complete combustion. Thanks Jason Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted April 14, 2012 Share Posted April 14, 2012 mine is cut at a slight angle, still draws and works fine. I guess its the same as anything, you just try to reduce airflow as little as possible. For your/our needs I wouldn't go for anything 45-90 degrees. <45 you shouldn't see any negative effect (especially with thw flue damper open and the door wide open.) Wrapped it in exhaust wrap to reduce heat, but it still gets too hot. My hannibal is hook and loop not zip like later ones so I can undo 2-3 bits and poke it out of the top. I have been resting it on a piece of wood, not ideal but its as far as I have got. Probably going to cut a hole in the front panel, to the side and fit one of their cowl things. G Thanks Gareth, Our awning also has zip and Velcro but I want to use it with the trailer awning also so again want it under the awning a bit more, and as above don't want to shut it in as it wont be providing our main source of heat just a camp fire/cooker for when we are out.. Jason. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mountain Goat Posted April 15, 2012 Share Posted April 15, 2012 Hi Jason You can get tent flashing kits from www.campingsolutions.co.uk for the frontier stove. It looks a bit bulky but will keep the rain at bay. As to the air required for a normal domestic log burner with an output of 6kW the vent size would need to be 550mm2 so say the frontier has an output of 2kW you need a vent of at least 200mm2 permanent opening. And a co2 detector would be a good idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sirocco Posted April 16, 2012 Share Posted April 16, 2012 Hi Jason You can get tent flashing kits from www.campingsolutions.co.uk for the frontier stove. It looks a bit bulky but will keep the rain at bay. As to the air required for a normal domestic log burner with an output of 6kW the vent size would need to be 550mm2 so say the frontier has an output of 2kW you need a vent of at least 200mm2 permanent opening. And a co2 detector would be a good idea. thats the flashing kit I will likely use. thats good info to have, thanks for that. G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted April 16, 2012 Share Posted April 16, 2012 Hi Jason You can get tent flashing kits from www.campingsolutions.co.uk for the frontier stove. It looks a bit bulky but will keep the rain at bay. As to the air required for a normal domestic log burner with an output of 6kW the vent size would need to be 550mm2 so say the frontier has an output of 2kW you need a vent of at least 200mm2 permanent opening. And a co2 detector would be a good idea. Thanks, I had seen the flashing kits but don't want to fit one to my awing hence the question about flow rates etc, I have ordered a section of flue today from Camping Solutions so will have a bit of a cut and weld session when it arrives. Jason. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mountain Goat Posted April 16, 2012 Share Posted April 16, 2012 I understand you not wishing to cut holes in the awning. Depending how hot the pipe gets, you could make a heat sheild by using a sheet of alli say 9"x9" with a snug hole for the flue pipe to fit through, then clip it on the awning rail. Dont forget your spark arester on the new end of pipe!!! Charles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sirocco Posted April 17, 2012 Share Posted April 17, 2012 you could make a heat sheild by using a sheet of alli say 9"x9" with a snug hole for the flue pipe to fit through, then clip it on the awning rail. Dont forget your spark arester on the new end of pipe!!! Charles Why didn't I think of that! It would be easy to attach the metal arms of the hannibal awning to... Genius. Is Aluminium better than SS for heat conductivity? I have some SS laying around. G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted April 17, 2012 Share Posted April 17, 2012 Why didn't I think of that! It would be easy to attach the metal arms of the hannibal awning to... Genius. Is Aluminium better than SS for heat conductivity? I have some SS laying around. G Aluminium conducts heat far better than Stainless, if you try welding some you will notice that straight away As a heat sheild I guess Stainless Steel would be better than Ali due to the reduced heat conduction..... or would it be better the other way? Discuss Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mountain Goat Posted April 17, 2012 Share Posted April 17, 2012 Me Again One thing you could try if you use some 2mm alli, "I allways er on the side of less weight when kitting out my landi, stainless comes in quite heavy" drill the hole for the flue pipe, then about 10mm out from that drill a circle of 10mm holes around the flue hole leaving a good 5mm between holes that would allow some air through cooling the alli plate instead of it being a heat sink, but not to much to be a draught. I cant rmember what rails are on the hannibal but if round you could try nylon clips that snap on copper pipe. Charles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bluemoon Posted April 19, 2012 Share Posted April 19, 2012 That's a good idea, the ring of holes, but if his rails where round, sliding on type , just need to round off or fold and roll the edge to slide in . Wouldn't be too hard with a piece of angle iron and hammer. Would it be possible to insert a full length panel piece to one vertical corner, from floor to ceiling, with it exiting from that , the walls could be tied or velco on, wouldn't have to use all ali, could use matching material away from chimney, maybe cut to shape , like an isosceles triangle, so no gaps to worry about. Hope I make sense Brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonr Posted April 20, 2012 Share Posted April 20, 2012 I was a good boy last year and for Christmas Mrs S brought me a Frontier Stove a great bit of kit I love the stove! Not seen them before - but that looks a fantastic bit of design! How about this for an idea! Make a thin walled Aluminium box out of separate panels which you can clip together to surround the stove. Then use a fan on the side of the box and a flexible tube going into the tent to provide indirect heating overnight. You then leave the stove outside and just have the hot air piped inside. If you were really clever - the box could double as storage for the stove when not in use. Just a thought. Si Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted April 20, 2012 Share Posted April 20, 2012 I love the stove! Not seen them before - but that looks a fantastic bit of design! How about this for an idea! Make a thin walled Aluminium box out of separate panels which you can clip together to surround the stove. Then use a fan on the side of the box and a flexible tube going into the tent to provide indirect heating overnight. You then leave the stove outside and just have the hot air piped inside. If you were really clever - the box could double as storage for the stove when not in use. Just a thought. Si The stove is a great bit of design Si, I have been looking round for a while as wanted to be able to have a 'real camp fire' whilst we were away camping without upsetting anyone, or getting suffocated by the smoke!! It packs up really neatly for storage which is a bonus. Great Idea about the warm air system, although it's going a bit far for our use, as we don't sleep in the awning. Jason. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sirocco Posted April 24, 2012 Share Posted April 24, 2012 The stove does punch out some heat. The rails are box section aluminium. I was going to look at clipping it over the rail. Si - nice idea. I could use one of my Zarges boxes G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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