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I've ordered MicroSquirt V3... got a lot of work ahead...


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I'm the proud (sometimes) owner of a Steyr-Puch Pinzgauer. I had a lot of ignition problems, due to condensation/moisture in the distributor so eventually fitted MJLJ which worked fine for a while until I managed to damage both carburettors beyond economical repair. Thinking that since I've already got the 36-1 trigger wheel/sensor, EDIS and coilpack installed and running fine, going the whole hog and installing EFI would not be a massive leap.

Have arranged to obtain some Bosch injectors & fuel pump from a BMW E28 and planning on making a custom fuel rail/dummy carbs to connect it all up. The main problems I foresee are trying to fit an O2 sensor into the exhaust system and getting a 12 Volt EFI system running on a 24 Volt vehicle

Have ordered a Microsquirt ECU from the USA (getting a friend to collect it), which comes with an O2 sensor and bung

Exciting times ahead, I think... :)

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Sounds fun :D

For the 12v look at converters for HGVs, they sell 24v to 12v so drivers can plug their own stuff in. Just make sure they give enough amps for your setup. This one is 10a which i'm sure would do it. http://www.ebay.co.u...#ht_2286wt_1147

For things like the ignition just use a 24v relay with the 12v passing though the switched side.

Good luck :D

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Good luck with this. I've been trying to get my Russian Gaz 66 (4.2 low compression V8) running on MS1 for longer than I care to admit and I've just taken the throttle body off and put the carb back on to try to assess why it runs like a bucket of s***.

I've left the wasted spark ignition on and although I now have some issues with the valley gaskets not sealing properly, the initial verdict is that it likes its carb back on.

I think my fuelling issues maybe something to do with the injection timing and the engines firing order. I will return to the injection at a later date when I regain enthusiasm

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The MegaJolt is 12V and I'm running this, along with EDIS and the coilpack off a converter. For EFI, I have to include the fuel pump and injectors, the pump being the main load.

My fuelling issues at the moment are caused by damage to the idle mixture screw seats - they're not sealing so letting too much fuel through at idle and making it run incredibly rich so the plugs foul sooty black in seconds. Trying a quick fix using high temperature epoxy but not confident that will work (and already ordered the MS anyway)!

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Could you not use a 24v pump to take the load off the converter?

I'd love to use a 24V pump. Problem is, most 24V vehicles are diesel and as far as I'm aware, you can't pump petrol with a diesel pump (because they're lubricated by the fuel). The existing fuel pump is just a low pressure job.

Current plan is to fit a battery balancer, something like this:

http://www.sp-shop.co.uk/Sterling-Power-24v-12-12v-Battery-Balancer.html

This will enable me to run larger 12V loads directly from the battery but keep both batteries fully charged.

Currently trying to find a scrap vehicle in the local area that still has the bits on it - think I've found a BMW E28 not far away that should provide what I need...

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It is annoying that volts and valves have the same abbreviation! I've looked at both of those options before... ;)

The advantage of fitting a battery balancer is that I can just install the MS like it's in a normal vehicle, without having to worry about relays with different voltages etc. It also means that replacement fuel pumps etc. are easy to come by

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Thats what you get for just typing an internet search in :D

Must admit when i saw how big the list of cars was i did think wow, didn't realise 24v was so common in so many mundane cars. Still didn't twig :D

Atleast you've found one in the end :)

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