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Megasquirt a 4.6 via GEMS or Thor Inlet Manifold?


Fatboy

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Afternoon Gents,

I have recently acquired a 4.6 block which was fairly low mileage but suffered a cracked block / slipped liner so I've sent it off to have top at liners fitted.

I've only got the front cover, sump, crank & pistons so need an inlet manifold, power steering pump, alternator, associated brackets, engine mounts etc..I've got all the Megasquirt bits and although the engine is out of a Range Rover, it's going into a 110!

The question is: Does anybody have any recommendations for the best inlet manifold to look for - GEMS or Thor?

Cheekily - if anybody has the bits for sale that I'm needing, please let me know!

Thanks,

Donald

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Thor would be my choice, no question.

As well as just being an all round better design IMV you'll even be able to use the factory idle control.

I do happen to have a Thor inlet manifold with fuel rail, injectors etc... if it's of interest - I bought it to fit to one of my engines before I went down the LS1 route.

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Dave - just out of interest, why do you say the thor is better than gems ?

I've got a gems engine in my p38 that i'll be putting into my next buggy but it's at a stage where i could swap inlets.

Gordon

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There are a few reasons I prefer them... and I'm sure some of my reasons aren't unanimously accepted :)

The Thor manifold seems to give better low end torque than gems, in particular on the back of an auto box I've found the same engine with a Thor manifold seems to be able to hold 4th with lockup over the gems version at lower rpm. It seems to move the torque map down by 2-300 rpm.

The banana manifold design seems to stop leaching between cylinders, especially when you're bank firing the injectors, I think that helps with the torque as well as giving smoother running due to the more consistent fuelling at lower rpm. It certainly seems to give a more consistent lambda reading pretty much throughout the rev range.

The standard IAC can be controlled directly by the older MegaSquirt ECUs.

The fuel rail without the built in regulator makes it easier to use an aftermarket adjustable regulator. Regulators like the Mallory one allow you to tune the fuel pressure on the rail and give you a more consistent pressure than the OEM ones. having it adjustable means you can tune the fuel pressure to give the best compromise between a consistent idle and a reasonable duty cycle at high revs/when accelerating hard without having to use the HR MegaSquirt code.

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Well this is my project for my vacation thats starts now.......

I modified the thor manifold to accept the thermostat and drilled a 1/8 fpt to acomodate the dash temperature sensor ,for the ecu temperature sensor you can yous your existing it is the sam thread .

I used an 1997 fuel rail and modified the fuel pressure valve so i can hook an aftermaket one ,i am using my 14 cux for now till i get the megasquirt .

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