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Wiring help for 2002MY bulkhead loom


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Good day,

I've bought a TD5 wiring loom which has had the ECU end of things cut off, leaving a thick but useless bundle of cables.

This loom has the bulkhead grommets on, so I am assuming this is therefore the actual bulkhead loom itself?

It apparently has everything in tact including a fusebox, so wiring for the central dash facia switches, heated seats, etc.

I have a 2002MY dash that I am trying to make work, so with the above in consideration, I have a few questions.

1) Will the removal of the ECU and connectors for it have any bearing on being able to use the rest of the wiring for the accessories and switches?

2) will the wiring for the dials be included in this loom?

3) What, if anything, would I need to add in place of the ECU to make it work?

4) How do I identify what each connector is?

I know very little about wiring and so I have tried a search but didn't come up with much, so any help much appreciated.

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As long as the only connectors that have been removed are the ECU connectors you should be able to use the rest without too many problems. Obviously make sure the cut ends are insulated/protected as many of them are live.

The wiring for the dials is not included in the loom, there is a small sub loom that links the bulkhead loom to the dials. The bulkhead loom contains all the necessary wires, just the last bit that is separate.

Where the ECU plugs have been cut off you will need to bridge some wires unless you want to bypass some of the loom. If you are using TD5 gauges then the ECU on the TD5 adapts the output from the coolant sensor to suit the gauge. As a result the engine loom connector isn't directly connected to the gauge and you need to connect the two wires together where the ECU plugs used to be or bypass them and go direct.

The only other thing I can think of that may cause you a problem is the lack of the AS10 immobiliser - if you don't have that you will need to rewire the starter motor relay to get the vehicle to crank over.

The under seat fuse box requires a battery feed which, on the TD5 runs direct from the battery box to the ECU box under the seatbox.

If you get a copy of RAVE for the 2002 MY Defender all the connectors are pictured/described and all the details of the wiring are covered in the wiring diagrams.

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Thanks, very helpful!

The fusebox on mine is a panel quite like the one under the normal cover on the bulkhead/transmission tunnel, also it sits between the two bulkhead grommets so would seem to me to be located there, would there be any identifier to see which type it is?

I need to get the RAVE diagrams then, as I have the chassis loom on order as well to add so that will soon add to the fun.

Is it safe to remove the redundant wiring for the TD5 bits, or would there be any issues with dependency with feeds etc? It's going to an 1988 V8 as per signature so it would only be added complication. I am tempted to strip all the wiring out just to leave the basics needed to make what I have work, which isn't all that much.

Last question, are the connectors unique for each application or can they be confused? I have tried matching the dash switches and it seems that only some will fit certain connectors, which would make it a lot simpler if I can be 100% sure each connector is on the right switch.

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Sam,

get a copy of rave which will show you a picture of each connecter in the electrical library. It's invaluable. Otherwise getting it to work is a piece of P. If you are running a tdi and not a TD5 then, as Dave says above, you'll just need to get power to the underseat fusebox (if you dont have one, then you'll need one, plenty on ebay - like this ).

This box feeds every thing you need for the electrical systems except the fuel stop solenoid and the glow plugs both of which are easy enough to sort out out yourself.

HTH

Mo

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