dioliahary Posted September 12, 2012 Share Posted September 12, 2012 Hi, I have read quite a few forums on this procedure but before I started I wanted to make 100% sure it can be done without the need to jack or put on axle stands. Can it be undone and removed in situ without the need to block etc. Ta Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveturnbull Posted September 12, 2012 Share Posted September 12, 2012 On a flat piece of ground should be ok. I wouldn't recommend doing it on a slope. Can't hurt to chock a wheel or two tho. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukspike Posted September 12, 2012 Share Posted September 12, 2012 I done mine on a car hoist, but left the wheels on the hoist, no jacks, I removed it completely as I replace the A frame bushes at the same time, nothing moved or went out of alignment, just be sensible and all should be ok, I did chock the front wheels, that was the easy bit, now getting the ball assemble out of A frame.!!!!!!!!!!!!_ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveturnbull Posted September 12, 2012 Share Posted September 12, 2012 now getting the ball assemble out of A frame.!!!!!!!!!!!! Get a hacksaw or grinder with thin disc, cut the 'wings' (tabs with the bolt holes in) off the ball joint being careful not to cut into the cast bracket. Place the casting in the vice with the newly exposed faces resting on top of the jaws, attack the top of the ball joint with a large hammer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted September 12, 2012 Share Posted September 12, 2012 If you fill in your location in your profile settings, you may get assistance with a press. I have the required 30t press avaliable, and the necessary tools, but thats no good if you're nowhere near me..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick Posted September 12, 2012 Share Posted September 12, 2012 Get a hacksaw or grinder with thin disc, cut the 'wings' (tabs with the bolt holes in) off the ball joint being careful not to cut into the cast bracket. Place the casting in the vice with the newly exposed faces resting on top of the jaws, attack the top of the ball joint with a large hammer. I don't think I could've generated the 25-30 ton needed to budge the one I changed a few weeks back with a sledge hammer, let alone a 5lb lumpy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy2986 Posted September 13, 2012 Share Posted September 13, 2012 I'm just changing mine.. Gwyn Lewis sells the whole assembly with a greasable joint already installed.. HTH Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted September 13, 2012 Share Posted September 13, 2012 I don't think I could've generated the 25-30 ton needed to budge the one I changed a few weeks back with a sledge hammer, let alone a 5lb lumpy. The last one I did took 28ton - I was getting worried...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulcan bomber Posted September 13, 2012 Share Posted September 13, 2012 The last one I did took 28ton - I was getting worried...... Last one i had done took alot more... Closer to 80 ton iirc... Its handy having a mate with a 600+ ton press though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveturnbull Posted September 13, 2012 Share Posted September 13, 2012 I don't think I could've generated the 25-30 ton needed to budge the one I changed a few weeks back with a sledge hammer, let alone a 5lb lumpy. I've never failed to get one out using a hammer. I'm sure that a repeated shocking action requires less overall force than just gradually building up the pressure in a press. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted September 13, 2012 Share Posted September 13, 2012 Mini-sledge has always worked for me, I think it's a 10lb one, shocks definitely help in this sort of situation, although of course you can't always do this, as you may damage the part you are trying not to hit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted September 13, 2012 Share Posted September 13, 2012 ...not to mention you don't want to shock and fraction the casting/forging that the ball joint is housed in.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted September 13, 2012 Share Posted September 13, 2012 Yup, I used my hub nut socket on top f the joint, I think, either that or it was my 1 5/16" socket -it survived ok Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick Posted September 16, 2012 Share Posted September 16, 2012 I've never failed to get one out using a hammer. I'm sure that a repeated shocking action requires less overall force than just gradually building up the pressure in a press. Mine wouldn't budge with a few well aimed blows, and when you have a 60T press available..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dioliahary Posted September 18, 2012 Author Share Posted September 18, 2012 Thanks live in Manchester BTW. I am going to buy an A frame ball joint and renew the track rod ends, I have seen them quite cheap on ebay. Have you any experience of aftermarket parts such as these and could you tell me where you think best value to buy from ta Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulcan bomber Posted September 18, 2012 Share Posted September 18, 2012 oem is your best bet imho.. Lemforder or something along them lines is the oem for ball joints and track rod ends. I know amd 4x4 will supply these. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dioliahary Posted September 21, 2012 Author Share Posted September 21, 2012 Took the a frame ball joint off got my mucker to pess it out, we have pressed it back on.... but it did not really sit flush, the base plate will not sit home fully flush with the casting 1mm gap in places. Have moved on and will fit over the weekend, will keep you posted. Track rod ends next then steering unit I do hope this sorts the wandering steering out ta Harry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dioliahary Posted September 23, 2012 Author Share Posted September 23, 2012 Well fitted the new A frame ball joint and it seems to have improved the steer wander, need to do a proper check tho what do you think could the play in the a frame joint have caused unresponsive poor steering? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted September 23, 2012 Share Posted September 23, 2012 It would induce some sense of rear wheel steer, yes, sort of Steering wander is more often swivel preload, panhard rod bushes, radius arm bushes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigelw Posted January 19, 2013 Share Posted January 19, 2013 Sorry to drag this age old topic up from the grave but...... My shiny new parts are here and guess what, some idiot picked an A frame ball joint less fulcrum and packed in my box, so not really got too much time to faff around and my problem is that I only have a 10T press at the mo as swapped my 20T one for a few weeks to help out a mate who was really struggling with the little one and thinking I had welding enough to do would not need it, a lump of metal removed from eye and a rather sore eyeball and strict advice from nursey telling me no welding means other work must proceed.... having read of forces in excess of 30T needed to press them in and out I am wondering if it would shrink enough if bathed in liquid nitrogen for an hour and the fulcrum slapped in the oven on 220C for an hour would it go easier? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted January 19, 2013 Share Posted January 19, 2013 I have a 30T test press which is graduated, the last one I did was cold and took 22ton to do. Heating the housing probably would help and wouldn't do any harm, but I personally wouldn't attack the ball joint with liquid N. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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