Spearos Posted November 21, 2012 Share Posted November 21, 2012 Last week I re-built both Swivels on my 90 with new top pins/Railko bushes and bottom pins/bearings. It was the first time I've done this job, however it all went well and I've done about 180 miles since the rebuild. All 'feels' good. Today I took the opportunity to inspect each hub/swivel and check all is well. I've noticed on the O/S there is a small amount of play when I rock the wheel with my hands in the 12 and 6 o' clock position it appears to be coming from the bottom pin/bottom of the ball. Any ideas? One thing to note is that the top pins required a lot of shims to get the desired preload. All parts were Allmakes premium range, so Timken bearings. Corteco seals etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted November 21, 2012 Share Posted November 21, 2012 Things vary, but generally if you're assembling new parts they will need lots of shims as the parts are big and need the shims to space them out. Are you sure the play isn't in the wheel bearings? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spearos Posted November 21, 2012 Author Share Posted November 21, 2012 Pretty sure it's not the wheel bearings - while rocking the wheel I can see the movement between the ball and the bottom of the swivel housing (quite difficult to rock the wheel whilst craning your head around the front of it!!). After I wrote this post, I had a terrible thought.... Looking at my scales I'm thinking I *might* of been looking at LBs instead of KGs So, that'll be the first thing I check! One question I have though is why are you supposed to set the preload without the seal and stub axle fitted? Whatever the reason, should it be taken into account when checking the preload at a later date? I knew it all went too well.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted November 21, 2012 Share Posted November 21, 2012 Because the seal and stub axle will add to the force needed to turn the swivel. The seal is easy enough to pop off the back. the CV... I'd try with the wheel off, turn it back and forth a few times with the seal off (to get the CV in the right orientation) and see if the measurement compares with what you thought you were measuring before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spearos Posted November 21, 2012 Author Share Posted November 21, 2012 Thanks. Done a bit of reading, and all is clear - the seal gives variable damping, altering the effort needed to turn. I guess if the seal gave a reliable/constant damping you could just increase the recommended effort needed. As for reading the scales wrong, I've been an even bigger numpty! I remember taking the reading off the right hand side of the scales, which when you look at them the right way up is LBs. But.... of course with the hook in the TRE hole the scales were upside down and KGs were on the right hand side! So, is it worth dropping the Swivel oil and removing seal to re-check the preload? I'm thinking now, perhaps I'll just disconnect the steering and see how the swivel feels when turned by hand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted November 21, 2012 Share Posted November 21, 2012 I thought it was set without the seal and the caliper fitted?? I'd either frop the seal and remove the caliper and then re-check the setting, or just do what we all do after the bits have been fitted a while.......remove shims until the play has just dissappeared. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted November 22, 2012 Share Posted November 22, 2012 When i re-built mine i thought the lower pin was "ok" so re-assembled but could get rid of some 12-6 looseness, turned out to be the lower pin was ever so slight warn, on closer insepction you could feel a slight notch, replaced the lower pins too and it cured it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unclemicky Posted November 22, 2012 Share Posted November 22, 2012 Spearos Can I be rude in asking what the parts cost you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spearos Posted November 22, 2012 Author Share Posted November 22, 2012 Ok, I was out in the wind today (Christ wasn't/isn't it windy today!). I whipped the TRE out the offending hub and rotated the swivel housing, there was practically no resistance! So out went a few shims and all is good! I did think at the time think that this particular top pin was very tight in the railko bush - it was incredibly difficult to turn and remove during initial set up. So, I assume that influenced the reading on the scale and once it had bedded in some-what, things went a little slack. Thanks to everyone who replied Spearos Can I be rude in asking what the parts cost you. All the parts came in at about £150, that was for all seals and gaskets, the top pin/bush and bottom pin/bearing. Also included a few replacement bolts and genuine hub caps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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