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Axle question.


Scooby Jim

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There's a give away, the drums are all but square on the outer corners. 4-cylinder drums have something like a 30degree chamfer on the outer corner, something like an inch across, and much narrower shoes.

Well I've learnt something, more I learn the less I have to ask lol.

I just got to find the best place to get decently priced shoes/cylinders, and master-cylinder with reservoir.

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Just been looking for wheel cylinders for my 88 which needs a front brake rebuild, LR Series and LR Direct are coming back with the best prices at the moment, LR Direct giving a huge choice of manufacturers and just getting the edge over LR Series I think.

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Just been looking for wheel cylinders for my 88 which needs a front brake rebuild, LR Series and LR Direct are coming back with the best prices at the moment, LR Direct giving a huge choice of manufacturers and just getting the edge over LR Series I think.

Cool, I will have a look and then make a super long list of parts.

Have a few things to do before I venture into sorting then fitting the brakes.

Like a vacuum feed from the V8 carb manifold, like the one in the pic above, which is also a non return valve.

What I mainly want is some nice dry weather, or a garage to work in, as working outside is getting a bit.

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If anyone is like me and likes looking through catalogues, can you see anything on this list I have missed out thats needed??
Apart from the obvious Drums themselves, as I may try and reuse them after a bit of work.

Hoping that I don`t need new adjusters etc etc, but the last true drum setup I worked on was a good 15 years ago, last ones I have done were just parking brakes inside a disk brake.

Parts.jpg?t=1358196382

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I can't help with a vacuum feed on a V8, I work with Diesels which have vacuum pumps anyway.

I hope you don't need adjusters, the only ones I know of currently avaliable are Britpart ones and they ain't worth the paper the label is printed on,

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I can't help with a vacuum feed on a V8, I work with Diesels which have vacuum pumps anyway.

I hope you don't need adjusters, the only ones I know of currently avaliable are Britpart ones and they ain't worth the paper the label is printed on,

There is a blanking plug that I need to swap for a brass pipe with a thread on, that has a non return valve.

nonreturnvalve.jpg?t=1358198007

I'm hoping to reuse as much as possible, but I'll be avoiding Brit Part as much as possible.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Right having now managed 10 mins spare I have her up on axle stands.

Looks like the rear diff has deffo gone :(

Both rear wheels spin freely, and the prop doesn't turn, and the other wheel just sits there when one turned :(

Having previously removed the half shafts I know they are 100% ok, so may as well look for some Disco diffs seeing as I have to change the rear, and the front will have the broken end of a half shaft in so both have to come out, so may as well just swap them.

Where would be the best place to get 2 rear disco/rr 3.54 diffs??

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Also as for filling I've had a brain wave. Instead of drilling a hole in the pan and fitting a level check hole.
I could use the axle breather for filling, all I would need is the volume of fluids to fill the axle and then could use a dip stick to check levels.
Then eventually get the pan done if I need it.

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I'd strongly reccommend spending a little time fitting a diff pan filling/level hole. I've been caught out before now, both with too much and too little oil.
The half shaft will be in the way of a dip stick. Filling with a measured quantity and keeping a close eye out for leaks is the best you can do without fitting a new filler plug hole.

Right call me mad but I had an idea.

Drilling 2 holes (top and bottom of the face of the pan) then fitting a plastic tube between two 90 degree ends on hydraulic fittings to act as a level indicator??

But I think my dipstick idea would work, as long as I get the filling amount done right, then as long as the dipstick is inserted at the same angle to go infront of, or behind the half shaft and into the fluid, then it would be enough to give a rough idea on the right amount of fluid. I'm sure that would work.

BUT in the meantime

Looks like the rear diff has deffo gone :(

Both rear wheels spin freely, and the prop doesn't turn, and the other wheel just sits there when one turned :(

I have now had chance to remove my prop, and this turns freely, and with a smell of oily death the smell that you just KNOW something oily has died a hot horrible death.

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You could do, but by the time you've drilled two holes, fitted two elbows, and cut a piece of pipe to fit, you'd have welded in a scrap diff pan with a plug, or even just a short weldable bsp socket....

Right had a think and my conclusion is to try and fit a bsp threaded socket, as my welding skills aren't great, so if i were to mess it up I could get the pan replaced.

My question is where can I get hold of the bsp socket and a matching threaded plug??

Also where can i get the data for the ideal height for the bottom lip for the right fill level??

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I'll try and have a measure of the 88 for you, but half way up would be fine. Tad over full, but I usually give mine a bit extra.

A decent ironmongers or fab shop should be able to get you a weldable socket, as should ebay. Weld it in, then seal it as belt and braces. One day you'll likely have to replace the diff pan anyway, and new ones all seem to have the filler hole in already. By then you'll have learnt to weld!

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It wouldn`t be "I need to go to Cardiff (50+ miles) lets take the Landy", more take the Impreza or anything else available lol.

50 miles! Geez some of us over here travel further than that to put the garbage bins out :).but agree with the others, A salisbury is more diff than you'll ever need for a carefully driven Resto.

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