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EGR AND CAT REMOVAL


GUYZER90

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Hi all,

Ive just aqquired a 1995 disco 300 tdi auto , vehicle runs and drives very well but the engine just seems to be a bit sluggish compared with the 300 tdi defender i had.

The questions are , would it benefit from having the EGR and CAT removed ? And how legal is it to remove the CAT.?

If the EGR was removed what happens to the wiring , is it a case of just unplugging it and leaving the wiring there?

If they were both removed what other wiring needs to be modified if any?

Look forward to the expert advice as allways..! ;)

Regards Guy.

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If you remove the EGR you can leave the wiring in place as it won't be doing anything anyway. Most people blank off the EGR rather than removing it completely.

Another thing you could do is 'tweak' the pump a little. There are plenty of guides around and this will make a big difference to the overall performance.

But, you have to remember that although the engines are more or less the same in the Defender and the Disco, the Disco is quite a lot heavier and this would make it feel more sluggish. I think the Disco was the heaviest out of the 110, Range Rover, 90 and Disco. I may be wrong on that though...

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Agreed an off the showroom floor Disco is just soooo heavy it reminds me of a popular pre-diet advert however once you remove all the 3/4" thick carpet underlay and padding, replace it and the standard roof lining with 3/8" high density self adhesive rubber insulation (obtainable from any HVAC sheet metal shop) remove the under-bonnet rubber sheeting it gets down to a tad over the weight of the defender 110 and its a better compact body and wheel-base.

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Had a decatted defender front pipe on mine for the past 4 years and only failed on emissions the last time.

This was mainly due to the veg oil I was running it on, acknowledged by the tester, once I was back on full fat diesel she sailed through the test.

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could be the auto box, as they sap power, hence the reason for the auto's having the electronic injection pump (fly by wire). you can get them chipped for more power, but as for tuning the pump, you'd need to change the injection pump, injectors and pedal to a manual one.

as for removing the egr and the cat, no problems on that one. get a blanking kit from ebay (about a tenner) and a front pipe from a 110, or a non cat 300 tdi and swap them over. diesel mot is just smoke test anyway

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The injection pump looks the same as the one that was fitted to the 90 ,only it has a small round electronic device on top , which i thought was some kind of position switch. :unsure: .

So is mine an early model with a manual pump.?

There are no signs of it being fiddled with before , its a very standard, non tampered with disco..

Regards Guy.

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It seems to me that you have the FIP off a ERG model and installed on your bare bones mechanical 300 TDi what you should have is a cover with a black hose going to the "T" piece on the turbo. shouldnt be too hard to obtain the correct pneumatic FIP govenor cover with said hose and swap it for your electronically operated unit but hopefully other on this forum will have a better idea of whats involved

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at the moment he doesnt need to do anything,

the FIP he currently has will have the pipe connected to the turbo to the boost module on the pump,

the electrical pot on the top of the throttle spindle is for the EGR system & simply tells the EGR controller where the throttle is,

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Don't mean to poke in on this but try using acetone on the sooty items, I did my intercooler with it and it cleaned it right out and where ther has been an exhaust leak at the manifold I wiped it over with the acetone a few times and all gone, be careful as acetone is bloomin flammable and if you do the intercooler it needs a good bit of airing before you refit it!!!

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Acetone is fine to remove gunk and oil deposits, although I dont know how you would get soot in the intercooler !!!! , afterwards - if you have one - use your very noisy and antisocial leaf blower to give it a good ventilating before you reconnect it,

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