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Bunfight


dollythelw

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d'ya reckon Bill could track down some more on the diesel squirt John? I didnt think it had been done yet <_<

Check here

And here

And here too

And here also as well in addition

A lot of reading there - I've skimmed it but can come back to it if you want to try it. There is some good tech and various options - either full CRDI or electronically controlled IDI as I understand it. Bloomin' Aga-based witchcraft <_<

If you wanna source a CRDI/IDI lump that's disposable & easily replaceable for development I can source an MS and learn to program (again) - MS-II and the router board (GPIO) plus some serious tweakage of firmware could see a DieselSquirt working... and I guess Dave would be interested if only to tweak up his TGV 2.8 and kill more drivetrain components :lol:

Don't like the sound of 20,000psi fuel rails though :blink:

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Ali - how can it be the same guy if Al says his initials are "JR" and you say he's called Toby? I know you're dyslexic but blimey... :ph34r:

Ahh well you see Jon did not see that bit on the end. Just my mate Toby was on the stag doo with Andy and he runs rentool in chandlers ford. so i thought that would be who andy knew

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Jez, what CAD do you have access to? Or what files can it read? We use CATIA V5 and the file will likely be .dxf, is this okay with you?

Also spoke to my man in transmissions, the V6 definately has a diffrent bolt pattern to AJV8 and Lion so its looking hopeful for a straight swap to cologne. :)

Lewis

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Lewis - what Transferbox do they us on the LR3 4.0V6?

hope you had a good weekend!

Erm, just the standard current transfer box as far as I know, i havnt got any specs to hand, being my week off and all, sorry. If you got hold of the g/box i imagine it would all come together, alternatively, use a Jag g/box and fit your desired transfer box. Using the V6 bellhousing obviously. :)

Weekend went well thanks, the 90 now has a rear axle and all the rear suspension set up, also removed the luverly 2.5td (anyone want it £100?) to make way for the tdi. Couldnt get the rollcage mounts to fit though, at least not without some major grinder persuasion to the A-frame crossmember, so gave up when rain stopped play on sunday. :( I think a PM to northernchris may be in order to sort the Cage. ;)

Lewis

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removed the luverly 2.5td (anyone want it £100?)

....eeeek :(

I'll have a nose about regarding the T box, Im not sure whats fitted to them :unsure: untimately thats not a biggy, even a divorced box is easily sorted if it comes to it :)

keep slugging away with the grinder - it will come good in the end!

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Sorry, was a bit vague before - heres a bit more tech, just what I know off the top of my head. I think its an electronic servo actuated centre diff locker - it looks like its got the motor mechanism from elctric windows bolted to the top, and I believe its electronic shift between high and low. ;)

Sorry, no info on ratios. :rolleyes:

I thought 100quid was worth a try - I know a muppet who is willing to pay 100ish so i'll just off load it to him :D

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I seem to remember that the early cars we dealt with allowed you to shift from low to high on the move, but not under power. They didnt seem to want to shift to low from high unless you were stationary, this may have been software related and not a mechanical issue though. :(

I'm not sure how the production vehicles behave, maybe you could ask Saley - I think he has a Disco3 :)

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I seem to remember that the early cars we dealt with allowed you to shift from low to high on the move, but not under power. They didnt seem to want to shift to low from high unless you were stationary

I can live with it that way round - although I think I'd prefer mechanical shift ultimately as Im not sure how submersible the actuators are?

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The actuators are well below Disco's quoted wading height of 700mm so they must be waterproof ish, plus I've steamed off a a Sport rolling chassis in the past and everything worked afterwards, well most things :D

Just found this info - may be helpful regarding an approximation of t/box ratios

Transfer ratios high 1.00:1, low 2.93:1

G/box is ZF HP26

Gear ratios 1st – 4.17:1, 2nd – 2.34:1, 3rd – 1.52:1, 4th – 1.14:1, 5th – 0.87:1, 6th – 0.69:1, Reverse – 3.40:1

Transfer box blurb: Two-speed electronic transfer gearbox, shift-on-the-move capability, electronically controlled locking center differential

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The actuators are well below Disco's quoted wading height of 700mm so they must be waterproof ish, plus I've steamed off a a Sport rolling chassis in the past and everything worked afterwards, well most things :D

Just found this info - may be helpful regarding an approximation of t/box ratios

Transfer ratios high 1.00:1, low 2.93:1

G/box is ZF HP26

Gear ratios 1st – 4.17:1, 2nd – 2.34:1, 3rd – 1.52:1, 4th – 1.14:1, 5th – 0.87:1, 6th – 0.69:1, Reverse – 3.40:1

Transfer box blurb: Two-speed electronic transfer gearbox, shift-on-the-move capability, electronically controlled locking center differential

its getting better and better - ratios are bang on, the ZF 6HP26 box was also used on the Audi A8 so its power handling has got to be pretty chunky <_<

really really dumb question time - what side are the prop outputs ? rhs front or lhs front?

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From what i remember, and dont quote me on this, i think the t/box mounting holes would alow it to be rotated so that the output was on the right hand side, not sure what you would do about the drain and level plugs and breathers.

I'll check with my man in transmissions when i get back to work on tuesday ;)

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I can get round breathers and bungs so thats no prob, the alternative is to use divorced T box, the ZF was offered with paddle shift on th Audis so Im guessing the actuator is the same but the command hardware and software thats different between conventional auto and paddlers?

or........... Ranger manual box?

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its getting better and better - ratios are bang on, the ZF 6HP26 box was also used on the Audi A8 so its power handling has got to be pretty chunky <_<

If you go this route then be careful what you buy. A8s are getting a rep at jumping out of gear at the moment- the last couple i have haven't done this so i have no personal experience- but they were very well looked after cars. Alledgedly cars with 80,000 on them and over without the full 72,000 mile service can start to be troublesome.

Would love to keep the 4.2 which is attached to it though- has buckets of torque- quoted at something like 380lb/ft from 1800 which is diesel like- and it feels like it too- car weighs 2000kg fully loaded, but does 0-60 in under 6.5 seconds! 70-130 is another world.

The ony other issue with the A8 box is that it won't hold in gear- when you red line it upchanges- although i would guess you would go with aftermarket control of some sort to clear that problem out of the way. i woudl guess that S8 boxes are stronger as they are designed to take an extra 60bhp.

If you were feeling really funky you could use the Haldex central diff- i hav no idea if it would be a good thing- but it "might " make things easier- i would also guess that electronic control would allow some sort of manual force distribution between front and rear axles- good for hill climbs and descents maybe?

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If an HP24 will fit where an HP22 was, is it the same for an HP26? Can they be made to bolt to an LT230? Is this new transfer box completely different or does it share any bits of LT230?

I would imagine you could make it bolt to an LT230 but why would you want to if you could use the newer box with on the fly hi/low shift etc? Plus it sounds like a lot of effort. :(

I dont think the new transfer box shares any components with the LT230.

Its manufactured by Borg Warner IIRC ;)

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