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The next weakest link in LR drive train ?


zim

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Hi,

Well i've seen the light and am upgrading from plastic landrover axles to yank. Axles proven to take 600+ bhp and 44's, so i'm fairly confident i won't break them with my 4.6.

But what is the next weakest link in the drivetrain ?

I'm currently on :

ZF 4hp22 from LSE

LT230 1.6 Transfer box, but this can be changed to 1.4 or 1.2 which we have

Bailey morris props which have a 1310 UJ's from memory, not sure how i'm going to mate them to my new axles. Front one will have a 1480 yoke, haven't decided on the rear yoke yet.

I'll run my 35" boggers where neccessary but wish to use 44" boggers most of the time.

How strong are the LT230 ? I've heard they're pretty robust.

Cheers

Gordon

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Ok. I have a th350 and a th400 in the workshop, but in order to mate these to an RV8 and LT230 wouldn't be worth the hassle :( be better just to go LS. Which for the time being i'd rather avoid.

I do also have a 4hp24 from my p38 that i can swap bits over if / when i break this one.

G

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I've still broken 1310's, the last props on the gwagon were 1330's with solid bar instead of tubes, they lasted well.

I'm pretty sure the lt230 would be fine up to a point, ive seen the rear output shaft break, and a set of gears grenade through landing under power.

As above though, the weak link will be any of the rover boxes followed by the rover v8.

I truely believe that nothing is unbreakable, anything can be broken with the correct application of stupidity!

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Cheers for the input. I've got a standard 14 bolt rear for now. Going to try centre rear diff, if I'm ok then will possibly upgrade to 40 spline, if not will then rebuild axle housing (with 40 spline stuff).. Going to get my arb machined to suit 40 spline shafts before I install it.

The front is a very special 14b, details when it arrives ;) will be stronger than the back strangely enough.

G

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The general consensus from what I can find, is yes the diff is running in the wrong side. But due to the sheer size of the ring gear coupled with the fact that there is a third rear pinion bearing they're awfully strong.

Tim Cameron et al have given them a pretty good testing session! Although his new buggy is on d80's now. But they're only marginally / argueably stronger.

Along the lines of a torq 14, it will be a drop out diff ;)

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Seem to remember seeing a 14-bolt front axle somewhere, made up from a rear, but then some other axle ends grafted on and custom shafts... Think it was on here, but can't find the episode...http://www.powerblocktv.com/shows/

As above though, autobox is next link worth thinking about, which as you have the HP24 parts for when it does let go, shouldn't be too much of an issue, except learning about auto box rebuilds :)

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Easiest way to do a 14 into a steering axle is to completely re tube it and got hold of a front D70 as the inner 'C' is larger and then you have a option of re splineing the shafts to suite, look for a front of a Dually as it is wider and you will have plenty on the shafts to use, if you cant do the work yourself you can drop it round to me, it can all be done Gordon, you have seen it, even the engine adapter, you have a mill, get one knocked up.


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We'll see Carl lol. May just end up biting the bullet and go chevy. The pros out way the cons. As said above, it's the C's and knuckles which are the limiting factor.

I've got a set of 4.11 gears on there way over at the moment so can run a rear with my LR front. For the time being.

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Go LS or LsX and you have tons of choice on drive train,

I have gone manual with a Muncie SM465 mated to a NP203 'doubler' to a NP205, This set up allows me to use Muncie TG series PTO units for a rear mounted mechanical pto winch driven off the 205 and a pto unit to drive the hydraulic pump, this is mounted to the 465,

The doubler is not in photos as it is in bits being sorted.

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