Sunray-I40 Posted December 23, 2013 Share Posted December 23, 2013 If I'm repeating another thread - please refer me to it! Otherwise... I'm starting to fit out my 1995 300tdi 110 CSW for long trips. I'm starting to think about auxiliary fuel tanks and would appreciate advice as I've seen several sizes, materials and positioning from the various manufacturers. 1. on a 110 5 door county what are the size and position options and what are the pros and cons of each? 2. Is there much to be gained from paying the extra for stainless steel? 3. what do people do about fuel tank gauges? 4. has anyone done a twin tank conversion and used diesel in one for starts, with veg oil in the other to switch over to when the engine is hot? what tanks did you use? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Puffernutter Posted December 23, 2013 Share Posted December 23, 2013 I did the SVO conversion. I had a bespoke tank made that sat behind the middle seat in the 2nd row. It held about 15 litres, in retrospect, I would have made it about 25 litres. It was externally vented. This tank also fed the Eberspascher. I never had a gauge fitted, I just had to remember to check it every now and again. It used more diesel in the cold as it took longer to get warm enough to switch to SVO (which it did automatically based on the temperature of the SVO). The main tank held the SVO. You will need a filter on it and it will probably need changing fairly quickly (after 1 tank full) as the SVO seems to bring all the diesel crud with it. After a couple of tank fulls, unless you have a poor lot of SVO, the filter barely has to do anything! Happy to supply any more details. Cheers and a Happy Christmas Peter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soutie Posted December 23, 2013 Share Posted December 23, 2013 For my overland trip I fitted a 45lt wheel arch tank. I have a 200tdi 110. I choose the alisport aluminum one. You can get Mantec and other makes. It extended my fuel capacity to 120 lts without adding an extra fuel pump etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam001 Posted December 23, 2013 Share Posted December 23, 2013 Check the tech archive, I have done a pretty comprehensive write up on it all...but not so much on different tank options, but certainly the rest Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave W Posted December 24, 2013 Share Posted December 24, 2013 I've kind of covered both variations with mine, albeit on a 90. Although the rear tank is different, much of what I've done is also possible on a 110... I've fitted 2 additional tanks to our overland 90, the first tank is a plastic one from Safari Equipe that fits between the main tank and the fuel filler, under the rear wheel arch. Essentially it replaces the fuel filler pipe with an under wing tank. It doesn't add a huge amount of capacity, perhaps 20+ litres so about the same as a jerry can. On ours it is designed for a TD5 90 but pretty sure they do a similar one for the 110. I then added a "standard" under seat 90 tank (pre-TD5) using standard parts. As ours is a TD5 I had to move the TD5 ECU etc... but I wanted to do that anyway for the increased wading depth. Fitting the standard 90 tank is far cheaper than any of the "long range tanks", it also has the advantage that the level sender is a standard part so will match your dashboard gauge. For filling you could either use a standard 90 setup (would involve cutting a rectangular hole in the rear wing and insetting a new filler or you can do what I've done and use a flush fit filler. To maintain the independence of the, effectively, two tanks I used a motorised change over valve, commonly used in SVO conversions. This sits between the tanks and the engine and switches the fuel feed, fuel return and fuel gauge senders over simultaneously using a switch on the dashboard. On the TD5 this works so seamlessly that you can change tanks while driving and not notice the change over providing you don't leave it until you run out of fuel on one tank. This is preferable in my mind to a simple balance pipe or transfer pump because the two tanks are entirely independent so if you get a holed tank at least the other can still be used without losing all your fuel. The valve I used is a Poliak one, I got mine from here... http://www.biotuning.co.uk/ShopValves.htm Potentially this valve can be used with any number of tanks as you can chain them together. There are some pictures of my install on our blog under the "Fuel system" tag. http://landytravels.com/tag/fuel-system/ Due to problems with the TD5 fuel gauge (the gauge on a TD5 is not connected directly to the sender) I ended up building a small PIC circuit with an LCD display that shows the fuel level in both tanks simultaneously and drives the fuel gauge based on the currently selected tank. (it also shows the voltage for both batteries and controls the solenoid that joins them together). This was calibrated for each tank so the fuel level for each tank is shown in gallons (as accurate as possible with a swinging sender unit !). The display for the unit can be seen top, right on the dashboard in the top picture for the link above. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tacr2man Posted December 24, 2013 Share Posted December 24, 2013 My 110csw has the standard rear centre chassis tank , I then have the steel under wing between filler pipe type tank as mentioned by another poster. I have also fitted a series type tank under drivers front seat position this is ex mil type with top filler , so no filler pipes needed. You do have to make small bracket to support front of tank . The two rear tanks are joined at bottom so the main guage reads both at same time as you use both at same time . The underseat tank doesn't have a guage , as I fill to top (11 gallons) 50litres . Then i just run the rear tank down to say half , and switch pump on at it moves all front tank contents to rear , so you always know exactly what you have , and is simpler than having to fit two guages etc . HTSH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sunray-I40 Posted December 28, 2013 Author Share Posted December 28, 2013 I did the SVO conversion. I had a bespoke tank made that sat behind the middle seat in the 2nd row. It held about 15 litres, in retrospect, I would have made it about 25 litres. It was externally vented. This tank also fed the Eberspascher. I never had a gauge fitted, I just had to remember to check it every now and again. It used more diesel in the cold as it took longer to get warm enough to switch to SVO (which it did automatically based on the temperature of the SVO). The main tank held the SVO. You will need a filter on it and it will probably need changing fairly quickly (after 1 tank full) as the SVO seems to bring all the diesel crud with it. After a couple of tank fulls, unless you have a poor lot of SVO, the filter barely has to do anything! Happy to supply any more details. Cheers and a Happy Christmas Peter thanks Peter i dont want to take up space inside so I'd look at an external tank, but i am interested in the switchover kit and the temperature at which svo is good to use. thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sunray-I40 Posted December 28, 2013 Author Share Posted December 28, 2013 For my overland trip I fitted a 45lt wheel arch tank. I have a 200tdi 110. I choose the alisport aluminum one. You can get Mantec and other makes. It extended my fuel capacity to 120 lts without adding an extra fuel pump etc. where exactly does that fit? and where does it plumb in? thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sunray-I40 Posted December 28, 2013 Author Share Posted December 28, 2013 Check the tech archive, I have done a pretty comprehensive write up on it all...but not so much on different tank options, but certainly the rest thanks I will look now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sunray-I40 Posted December 28, 2013 Author Share Posted December 28, 2013 I've kind of covered both variations with mine, albeit on a 90. Although the rear tank is different, much of what I've done is also possible on a 110... I've fitted 2 additional tanks to our overland 90, the first tank is a plastic one from Safari Equipe that fits between the main tank and the fuel filler, under the rear wheel arch. Essentially it replaces the fuel filler pipe with an under wing tank. It doesn't add a huge amount of capacity, perhaps 20+ litres so about the same as a jerry can. On ours it is designed for a TD5 90 but pretty sure they do a similar one for the 110. I then added a "standard" under seat 90 tank (pre-TD5) using standard parts. As ours is a TD5 I had to move the TD5 ECU etc... but I wanted to do that anyway for the increased wading depth. Fitting the standard 90 tank is far cheaper than any of the "long range tanks", it also has the advantage that the level sender is a standard part so will match your dashboard gauge. For filling you could either use a standard 90 setup (would involve cutting a rectangular hole in the rear wing and insetting a new filler or you can do what I've done and use a flush fit filler. To maintain the independence of the, effectively, two tanks I used a motorised change over valve, commonly used in SVO conversions. This sits between the tanks and the engine and switches the fuel feed, fuel return and fuel gauge senders over simultaneously using a switch on the dashboard. On the TD5 this works so seamlessly that you can change tanks while driving and not notice the change over providing you don't leave it until you run out of fuel on one tank. This is preferable in my mind to a simple balance pipe or transfer pump because the two tanks are entirely independent so if you get a holed tank at least the other can still be used without losing all your fuel. The valve I used is a Poliak one, I got mine from here... http://www.biotuning.co.uk/ShopValves.htm Potentially this valve can be used with any number of tanks as you can chain them together. There are some pictures of my install on our blog under the "Fuel system" tag. http://landytravels.com/tag/fuel-system/ Due to problems with the TD5 fuel gauge (the gauge on a TD5 is not connected directly to the sender) I ended up building a small PIC circuit with an LCD display that shows the fuel level in both tanks simultaneously and drives the fuel gauge based on the currently selected tank. (it also shows the voltage for both batteries and controls the solenoid that joins them together). This was calibrated for each tank so the fuel level for each tank is shown in gallons (as accurate as possible with a swinging sender unit !). The display for the unit can be seen top, right on the dashboard in the top picture for the link above. thaks Dave, some very useful info here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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