Cynic-al Posted December 1, 2014 Author Share Posted December 1, 2014 Not done a great deal but thought I would update what I have done. Speedi - sleeved the shafts as Dan suggested. Really thought they weren't going to work and I would be looking at 2x £18 wasted so figured I'd get my dad around to lend an extra pair of hands. In the end really easy to fit so I'm hopeful I won't have any problems, turns out a bit of unistrut was the perfect fitting tool! I also got the controls as far as I can before fitting. Blue was chosen because I happened to be painting the brakes; (photographed on my lovely newly created welding table). Still waiting for the seals for the brakes. turns out I unwittingly ordered them from Estonia so need to do a bit of Google translate to work out the tracking website! At the weekend whilst my wife was at work my 3 year old decided he wanted to paint something, now I hate painting so rather than setting him to paint a splodge on some wrinkly paper to stick on the fridge I gave him a more productive task; Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
qwakers Posted December 1, 2014 Share Posted December 1, 2014 so.... how did he do? lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted December 1, 2014 Author Share Posted December 1, 2014 It and much of the floor and his arms were black. So about the same as me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cheesy Posted December 2, 2014 Share Posted December 2, 2014 That nice piece of stainless yo have in the centre console might be a bit of a pain.... I replaced my console with a bit of stainless I bent up from the old dishwasher door, it looks ok untill the sun comes out then the reflection can be a bit blinding!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
qwakers Posted December 2, 2014 Share Posted December 2, 2014 It and much of the floor and his arms were black. So about the same as me excellent. you just need to teach him to spray now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted December 2, 2014 Author Share Posted December 2, 2014 Hmmm didn't think about the sun, still if it ends up the same condition as the rest of the car interior it won't be a problem I can't go off-land-roving without him now, even though he doesn't like the hills He keeps telling me he wants a green land rover with writing on, I came across this on a local facebook selling page and after a tense week long tender auction managed to get it for his birthday next week. I just hope it will fit in the back of the pickup otherwise it's going to be hard to use I'm thinking working lights and winch? Maybe a 1 link front Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted December 5, 2014 Author Share Posted December 5, 2014 Now that the trucks not at work I don't have much in the way of lifting equipment and didn't like the idea of swinging around under it with it sat on bits of wood and China special axle stands under the chassis so had a scrounge around for steel and managed to knock these up. Hopefully I won't get squished now! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted January 3, 2015 Author Share Posted January 3, 2015 Got the diff back with a solid crush collar and rebuilt with new seals etc so I've built the front axle up with new bearings and seals throughout so hopefully it will be a long time before I have to strip it again. I've also fitted the diff lock actuator so I felt the usual video was in order for completeness the seals for the brakes turned up today so I will put the brakes back on next then take a look at the steering Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
callum Posted January 6, 2015 Share Posted January 6, 2015 a bit late now, but another option for half shafts where the seal has caused a groove is 'mar-tacking' (e.g. blobbing some weld in and filing back) the splines where they go into the diff to move the position of where the seal sits at the cv end of the shaft. this is primarily done to aid servicing, particularly in field, as removing the cv's from the shaft can be very difficult, but it also allows you to set where the seal sits on the shaft. this thread describes things, but unfortunately my pictures have disappeared. I will see if i can find them on the computer http://www.landcruiserclub.net/forums/showthread.php/41792-mar-tacking-shafts?s=e792c26960c5e1202fb16cc665959579 for a bit of extra longevity, if your swivel balls are in decent nick, you might want to import some longfield wiper seals to replace the rather crappy felt items that are standard. I've had some on a few years and they seem to do a good job of keeping the grease in and dirt out. You can also get rubber boots from australian mine suppliers for further protection, but i never went that far! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted January 7, 2015 Author Share Posted January 7, 2015 Never heard of that but it's a neat idea I'm trying to think if it will work with the front difflock. My brain isn't working yet but I'm sure the first bit the half shaft encounters on that side is the bit that slides up and down the half shaft splines? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted January 8, 2015 Author Share Posted January 8, 2015 Got the front brakes rebuilt with new seals and the front axle together. Had a little play with the radius arms and steering and there is certainly going to be a conflict so the plan for the moment is to bodge it whilst I get everything else right like bodywork and suspension then look to make some bespoke radius arms or maybe even brave a one link :/ Now the fun starts of finding everything I got wrong I couldn't believe how restrictive the load leveller is and how hard it is to get off! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted January 12, 2015 Author Share Posted January 12, 2015 Hmmm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted January 12, 2015 Share Posted January 12, 2015 ....and the problem there is....? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted January 12, 2015 Share Posted January 12, 2015 Articulation will require some body mods. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted January 12, 2015 Share Posted January 12, 2015 I wrongly assumed that was on the bump stops for some reason... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted January 13, 2015 Author Share Posted January 13, 2015 Yes think the arches may need rolling or something... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted January 13, 2015 Share Posted January 13, 2015 To be fair mine was a wild guess. Mine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted January 13, 2015 Author Share Posted January 13, 2015 Well there's about 100 mm compression travel in the shock so I will get a paper pad out and see what that works out as at the wheel. I think I will get away without moving the inner arch and just making the edge come straight out then modifying the door to match... or lift blocks under the spring... garage door allowing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted January 13, 2015 Author Share Posted January 13, 2015 I had a play, the dimensions I took were a bit lick your thumb and close an eye but this is something like. 8" of up at the edge of the tyre Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted January 27, 2015 Author Share Posted January 27, 2015 After the heaving and puffing getting the back in I decided to find an easier way of moving the heavier front axle around the car so I pinched a couple of machine skates from work and managed to create a little articulated trolley started playing mocking up some radius arms. Needed about 6 degrees of caster correction and crank. The steering bar has enough clearance to take it on and off. I was worried the box 40x40x4 box wouldn't be strong enough but I tried to use a 12t pipe bender to crank it and it said no so I think it should be ok. The other question is will the cast stick to the box? The chassis end goes into the box by about 75 mm and I've drilled holes to fill with weld. The axle end I can plate over once I've welded around to increase the contact. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted January 27, 2015 Share Posted January 27, 2015 Excuse me if you have already said, why are you making your own radius arms? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aniesigh Posted January 27, 2015 Share Posted January 27, 2015 Landrover radius arms foul the steering tie bar. not too sure on the welding, but plenty of people modify the LR radius arms and weld to them etc so i reckon it'd be ok. i'd maybe look at getting some thick walled tube that fits nicely inside the box to strengthen it up. The box will be strong at the moment, but if its gets dented if it lands on a rock or something, it will create a weak point which could then kink/snap. to slip something inside it at the minute is an easy extra step to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted January 27, 2015 Author Share Posted January 27, 2015 Yes the steering bar across the back fouls. I don't know If off the shelf caster corrected ones would clear, I doubt it and I'm not going to spend to find out It's not like I drive it on the road but there are still times when you don't want it to fall off Good idea with the tube I think I have some that might go in apart from the bend I've put in. Maybe a flat strip along the bottom to help with impacts? Guess I could buy a length of blue band or something and make from scratch but the axle end is still going to be pretty messy. Maybe save that for a one link as a later project Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aniesigh Posted January 27, 2015 Share Posted January 27, 2015 I don't think a std corrected one would work either, but i also didn't fancy spending out to find out! Maybe you could slide the tube in then bend the two together (obviously you'd have to start again with a new piece of box though). A flat strip could also work, either instead of or as well as. Think i'd be going for a belt and braces approach, people seem to bend standard radius arms and they're solid! Must admit i was very tempted for a 1 link on mine, future project though i think Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted January 27, 2015 Author Share Posted January 27, 2015 Not sure if I could bend the two together but it could be exciting trying. I will have to see what I've got lying around. As the bend is near the top I guess I could slide something in then weld a plate either side of the bend to take the strength around the corner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.