Spongie Posted March 16, 2014 Share Posted March 16, 2014 Wiring up a 200tdi 101 from scratch. I'm using fancy modular fuse and relay holders from autosparks. I've got 4 modules in the box and two boxes Module 1 in box 1 is 6 mega fuses 1 ignition Main (to module 2 via relay) 2 non ignition (to module 3) 3 ignition fed accesories (to box 2) Module 2 in box 1 is for main ign feeds It houses a 70a power relay to protect the ign switch and 10 Mini blade fuses. 1 starter relay 2 head dip relay 3 head main relay 4 hazard ign 5 indicators ign 6 instrument feed 7 fog lamps relay 8 wipers 9 glow plug timer relay 10 Heater Module 3 is for non Ign circuits 10 mini fuses and 2 micro relays. 1 brake lamps 2 horn 3 side lamps 4 12v socket 5 hazards + 6 indicators + 7 fan ... The 4th module in box 1 then contains the two flasher relays Box 2 module 3 & 4 contains 10 mini blade fuses, 1 power relay and 6 mega fuses, these are for accesories fed from the second battery (I.e winch and camper Bits) Box 2 module 2 contains 6 micro relays which relate back to feeds from box 1 Box 2 Module 1 contains 20 mini blade fuses fed from mega fuse in box 1 mod 1 this is for accessories not required with ignition off, 1 spot lamps 2 beacons 3 heated screen 4 heated seats 5 radio + ... Thus leading me to my question. What do you guys think of the thought process here? Am I barking up the wrong tree with what I'm fusing and where I'm fusing them? Giving me head aches trying to plan it all out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Noisy Posted March 16, 2014 Share Posted March 16, 2014 What's wrong with it? Seems logical to me, and if nice and simple it'll be easy to remember in future. Be sure to put multiple spare feeds to places if necessary so that you can hook extra stuff up in future! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smallfry Posted March 16, 2014 Share Posted March 16, 2014 Seems logical to me to, although any electrical system can be a bit overwheming as a whole. So break it down into parts I find it helps to first work out the best place for your fuseboxes/modules/components, then just think about one circuit at a time. Run each cable but dont fix it permanently until you are all done and happy with it. Try to take into account what vehicle mods you might make later and take them into account with your routing. That way, if you make a mistake, you can change it easily Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigelw Posted March 16, 2014 Share Posted March 16, 2014 Seems logical to me to, although any electrical system can be a bit overwheming as a whole. So break it down into parts I find it helps to first work out the best place for your fuseboxes/modules/components, then just think about one circuit at a time. Run each cable but dont fix it permanently until you are all done and happy with it. Try to take into account what vehicle mods you might make later and take them into account with your routing. That way, if you make a mistake, you can change it easily Agree with this entirely!!! I have a whole separate loom to make up from the aux battery to the new components going into the build so will be following this closely as a guide to what your doing. Feel free to post up pics as you begin the wiring in your build thread Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted March 16, 2014 Share Posted March 16, 2014 Headlights and hazards should be permanently live, not ignition switched, so that you can flash them to signal for attention with the ignition off, just like the horn. Brake lights, indicators and reverse light should be run from the ignition switched bus sot hat they're dead with the ign off. The radios are a matter of preference; car manufacturers have a permanent live for the memory circuits but ign fed live for the main power to use the stereo, which is what I now have, but I used to run the stereo of the permanent live aux bus so that I could listen to the stereo with the ign off (keys out opening other doors or working on dash/engine electrics). I'd make sure any comms radios are permanent live fed. Any external power sockets for running camping equipment, or external camping lights with integrates switches, would be best run from a bus that is wired to a permanent live but with an interior master switch to prevent tampering when parked up, wasting battery power or worse (I have heard of coins being placed into external sockets by vandals trying to start electrical fires). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GW8IZR Posted March 16, 2014 Share Posted March 16, 2014 Can't tell from your description but L and R lighting circuits shouldn't, share the same fuse. I always use four separate fuses for headlights. L dip, R dip, L main, R main etc.. HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spongie Posted March 18, 2014 Author Share Posted March 18, 2014 Think I'm having a bit of a rethink on some bits and bobs. Thanks for help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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