Front Stub Axle Query

[MuddyWinny]

Hello,

While rebuilding the front hub on my 90 I am changing stub axle.

However, the old one had the keyway for the lock washer at the 12 o'clock position. This is also the orientation specified in the manual,

The new one has the keyway in line with a bolt hole that puts it at either the 11 or 1 o'clock positions.

The part I bought is an Allmakes FRC4320 from LRDirect which seems to the the right part number.

Does anyone know if this matters at all?

Another problem I am having is fitting the CV joint into the brass bush in the stub axle. If I push as hard as I can then I have to give the stub axle a gentle tap to remove it from the the CV joint. I can't see how this is deal for allowing a CV joint to turn.

CV joint is AEU2522.

Can anyone help?

Thanks

Mark

[MuddyWinny]

I have also noticed that the surfaces of the new stubaxle are not smooth like others I have fitted in the past (on the rear axle) or the old one. It is like they have been left machined rough with grooves in.

The surface on which the rear hub seal runs is also like this. Is this right? I would have thought the seal would run on smooth metal.

Thanks

Mark

[western]

the locking washer keyway won't make any difference to the built up hub/stub axle assembly, provided the bearings slide on without catching the surface finish isn't important, the inner bearing race is meant to sit still the rollers & outer race do the rotating job..

[MuddyWinny]

Thanks western.

I suspected that the orientation of the keyway would be an issue. I checked that a bearing fits ok but I'm still surprised that the seal journal (is that the correct term?) is rough.

However, I really cannot get the CV joint into the brass bush.

I opened the other stubaxle box (while replacing both brake discs I'm guessing the other stub axle will need replacing) and suspiciously it has evidence of attempted to have been fitted before (dirty grease and thread marks in the bolt holes and spline marks on the inside of the stubaxle shaft).

I guess I have to give LRDirect a call on Tuesday...

Also, the new brake disc bolts have the same thread length as the old ones, it's just that the 'shoulder' on the head is thinner.

Mark

[western]

the raised part nearest the inner end needs to be smooth for the inner lip of the seal to run on.

the bronze bush should allow the driveshaft to pass through,

shoulder thickness of the bolts isn't a big problem, they will only screw in to the plain shank at top of the threaded section, these bolts need threadlock on them too.

[Retroanaconda]

Years ago I bought one of the cheaper aftermarket stub axles as I thought the ones on the car were a bit past it. The quality of the machining was pretty terrible, and I ended up sending it back and putting the old one back on. Maybe you can get decent aftermarket ones from the likes of Bearmach or something I'm not sure, but they strike me as one of those "only buy genuine parts" bits to be honest. Mine are probably due changing now and when I do change them Land Rover ones will go on - expensive yes but the current set lasted 200,000 miles so hopefully worth it. Might try a speedisleeve repair first though out of interest.

Anyway I suspect that is the cause of your issues, both the seal land machining and the bronze bush tolerances. Hopefully your supplier will see you right anyhow.

[missingsid]

I recently bought two genuine LR rear stub axles and found that the large nut would not screw on either of them as if the thread was wrong. Took them back to check the correct nut.I was told there is only one nut but many part numbers for it. I bit the bullit and used a box spnner on it and the nut past the first tight spot and was fine.

[MuddyWinny]

Thanks for all the replies.

I'll see what LRDirect say on Tuesday. If they take the stubaxles back and refund the cost I'll be happy. I can source others from elsewhere, or, as suggested go for the Bearmach or Landrover ones.

Mark