Nigelw Posted May 24, 2014 Share Posted May 24, 2014 No stranger to getting stuck in but now that Rusty is the daily driver I need a handle on what I need for this job before I break it apart!!! Clutch pedal has 1/2" off the bottom of the stroke before it bites so guessing it's about cooked and that crunchy 2nd gear has got to go on the main box!!! I have a good spare LT77 but no transfer case or bell housing so will need to be swapping them over. Questions are, what else am I going to need apart from a clutch kit? Any potential pitfalls I need to be aware of before I break it out? What about the refitting of my old transferbox on the new second hand gearbox? Any setting up to do or how does that go? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alland Posted May 24, 2014 Share Posted May 24, 2014 hi nige id just get plenty of gear oil and transfer box oil do a service while you change them and try a good additive im breaking my black 200 but the box is going to a mate but im keeping a r380 box spare id say a complete clutch kit should do it plus while your at it a uprated release fork Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted May 24, 2014 Share Posted May 24, 2014 rear crank seal and flywheel bush while you're in there, maybe even gasket between block and flywheel housing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave88sw Posted May 24, 2014 Share Posted May 24, 2014 if the clutch bite has moved id be looking at hydraulics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigelw Posted May 24, 2014 Author Share Posted May 24, 2014 I was considering the crank seal but hadn't planned to pull the engine out just drop the boxes off the back and support the front end but wonder if it might be better to make a propper job of it an pull the engine out completely and allow 2days for it? An Dave, the bite point is the same as it as when I got it running for the first time a year and a half ago, it's only been my daily drive for about 2 an half months, figure better sorted sooner rather than letting it fail further and become a real problem when I need it the least. what about the input gear from the main box to the TX box? I presume that is just a normal M20 nyloc as there are no holes in the shaft for cotter pins so guessing a castle nut is not in there? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alland Posted May 25, 2014 Share Posted May 25, 2014 you should be able to do the back oil seal in situ tho nige dont buy a britpart one buy genuine its a cone thingy and a liberal bit of grease if i remember hope this helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted May 25, 2014 Share Posted May 25, 2014 what about the input gear from the main box to the TX box? I presume that is just a normal M20 nyloc as there are no holes in the shaft for cotter pins so guessing a castle nut is not in there? No nut needed. The input gear is held in place by the backplate on the transfer box (this contains shims that set the preload on the input gear bearings, but no need to worry about that if refitting the old box). That threaded part of the output shaft has nothing attached to it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted May 25, 2014 Share Posted May 25, 2014 Oops. Double post. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigelw Posted May 25, 2014 Author Share Posted May 25, 2014 Thanks for that Richard and Allan, will be ordering parts next week and waiting for the house move at the end of next month so I have more free time to do it in. Current list of parts. Borg & Beck clutch kit, HD thrust bearing, gaskets for the bellhousing to gearbox and fly wheel housing to engine, Oil seals for crank and TXbox output shafts. Should see me out of mischief for a while Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted May 25, 2014 Share Posted May 25, 2014 Did you get a spigot bearing Nigel? PS I'm assuming thrust bearing is what I'd call a release bearing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigelw Posted May 25, 2014 Author Share Posted May 25, 2014 Sorry Barry, been a week at home alone and thrusting is playing on my mind Yep thats the one and yes nearly forgot the bush, see, hence my thrusting issue Tidy little sum that lot(avoiding certain brands of course) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted May 26, 2014 Share Posted May 26, 2014 Thrust .... release ..... just different stages Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doda456 Posted May 26, 2014 Share Posted May 26, 2014 It might be worth adding the following to your list: hd clutch fork New propshadt nuts and bolts as they will be removed anyway New slave cylinder for 2nd hand box New oil and filter and copper washers for lt77 Box Few pop rivets to install the gearbox rubber gaiter New rubber gearbox gaiter Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted May 26, 2014 Share Posted May 26, 2014 No need to remove engine for crank seal, spigot bush or the gasker for the flywheel housing. Did all on my 88 after her accident while the gearbox was being changed with the engine still in place. Was a little easier working from above with no seatbox or tub in the way admitedly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.