Maverik Posted July 25, 2014 Author Share Posted July 25, 2014 I know its puzzled me a little, the thing does have head lights, and I recon that there is a direct ignition live too...I just bought this one - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221356202022?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 gives a wee picture of the pin outputs. I tried to dig out the black resin, a bit of heat does indeed soften the stuff, but quickly got bored of it so left it, I hadn't quite reckoned on its toughness... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMB Posted July 25, 2014 Share Posted July 25, 2014 6 wires would tend to indicate a three phase rotor with field winding, ie not just a rotor and magnet. 3 wires from alternator, battery live plus earth and field. If so, I would expect a charge lamp to be connected between ignition live and the field winding, to ensure a trickle into the field winding on start up as well as provide charge indication. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Smith Posted July 25, 2014 Share Posted July 25, 2014 True, but I've never seen a three phase flywheel alternator on anything I've worked on, normally only four wires unless ther is direct lighting, or possibly for an electromagnetic blade clutch But like I said, I don't see these engines on anything we work on. Kubotas and Shibauras tend to have seperate alternators like a car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMB Posted July 25, 2014 Share Posted July 25, 2014 True, but I've never seen a three phase flywheel alternator on anything I've worked on, normally only four wires unless ther is direct lighting, or possibly for an electromagnetic blade clutch But like I said, I don't see these engines on anything we work on. Kubotas and Shibauras tend to have seperate alternators like a car. You've got a lot more practical experience on the usage. My background is electronics, so can only comment on the need for 6 wires on the basis of the most likely configuration. I was thrown by the original mention of rotor and magnet. Cannot recall seeing anything like that since my Matchless 650! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Smith Posted July 27, 2014 Share Posted July 27, 2014 Virtually all lawnmower and garden tractors up to twin cylinder have a very primitive system, just like an old motorbike. The bigger stuff tends to have a regular automotive type alternator. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted July 29, 2014 Author Share Posted July 29, 2014 ok, I put the new regulator in it last night and the problem still seems to be there, much to my dismay! I wont be able to see the house soon due to the grass length... Without having to dismantle the whole flipping thing to work out the wiring I'm a little stuck. Anyone have any advice, the killer is I can't seem to find a circuit diagram for the thing. Its a Countax D50-LN (2009). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted July 29, 2014 Share Posted July 29, 2014 Have you taken any voltage/current measurements yet like you intended to? Check charging voltage, check for voltage drops across the fuses/wiring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted July 29, 2014 Author Share Posted July 29, 2014 I did put my v-meter on it last night, didn't see anything that looked particularly odd, will post up some values tomorrow. I lost patience with it rather quickly last night, too many things going on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roverdrive Posted August 2, 2014 Share Posted August 2, 2014 Mav Check for a high resistance on the fuse connections. I cooked a few fuses on my lightweight due to corrosion on the fuse holders Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMB Posted August 4, 2014 Share Posted August 4, 2014 Anyone have any advice, the killer is I can't seem to find a circuit diagram for the thing. Its a Countax D50-LN (2009). I found a service drawings and parts list but it only illustrates the loom. When it comes to charging it assumes an external mains powered charger and refers you to the manual for Yanmar 2V78-CA For what it's worth https://www.yumpu.com/en/document/view/10878731/d50-ln-v2050d-decals-countax-tractor-spares Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted August 5, 2014 Author Share Posted August 5, 2014 I found a service drawings and parts list but it only illustrates the loom. When it comes to charging it assumes an external mains powered charger and refers you to the manual for Yanmar 2V78-CA For what it's worth https://www.yumpu.com/en/document/view/10878731/d50-ln-v2050d-decals-countax-tractor-spares I've looked at all sorts of manuals but that's the first I've heard about using an external mains power source... could you point me to where you found that per chance... Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMB Posted August 5, 2014 Share Posted August 5, 2014 I've looked at all sorts of manuals but that's the first I've heard about using an external mains power source... could you point me to where you found that per chance... Thanks Section 12 of the manual referenced (https://www.yumpu.com/en/document/view/10878731/d50-ln-v2050d-decals-countax-tractor-spares wiring loom, p31 of 39). Part number 34 (Battery Charger). No sign of any charge regulator or alternator. Section 14 of the same document is the engine, but no electrical details given Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted September 24, 2014 Author Share Posted September 24, 2014 to close this out... After changing regulator, I still had the same problem. Next step was to change battery, which sort of helped, it ran for about 30 minutes then the cutting deck drive totally died. Some multi meter checking later showed that the electromagnetic clutch for engaging the blades had no resistance at all across the coil contact... 3 weeks later and £200+ a new clutch arrived... My theory was that the magnetic coil must have been on its way out slowly shorting the battery hence the hot fuses and poor battery performance, then the coil totally went caput. New magnetic clutch and battery and all is well again, although my lawn now looks like a freshly cut field... Thanks for the tips guys. Mav Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Smith Posted September 24, 2014 Share Posted September 24, 2014 Worth remembering that one here. Normally those clutches either work, or don't, with no "in between" symptoms. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted September 24, 2014 Share Posted September 24, 2014 ..... Makes Land Rover maintenance seem cheap 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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