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wet 2a


Tank

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i flooded my 2a in a ford which was slightly deeper than it looked, The gearbox oil has gone milky so needs replacing. does it use the same ep 90 as the axels?

Also it is not running as well as it did. I have dried the distributor out and dried the spark plugs and leeds. Is there any thing else i should do or does it just need a good run to dry it all out?

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on these cases like deep water crossings, there's a wading plug (is this the correct name?) that should be used on the gearbox, right?

is there any problem to fit this wading plug and use it all the time? or should this only be done if there's a raised breather on the gearbox and transfer box?

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i flooded my 2a in a ford which was slightly deeper than it looked, The gearbox oil has gone milky so needs replacing. does it use the same ep 90 as the axels?

Also it is not running as well as it did. I have dried the distributor out and dried the spark plugs and leeds. Is there any thing else i should do or does it just need a good run to dry it all out?

Tank - Ep 90 for the gearbox, same as axles. Ideally you want GL4 spec ep90 for the gearbox. Many of the newer GL5 spec ep90 oils have a higher concentration of an additive which causes wear/weakening of the 'yellow metal' bushes and parts which are present in series landrover gearboxes. GL5 spec ep 90 is ok for the axles though.

How deep did you go? If water got in through the air filter, the worst case scenario would be a bent conrod from water ingress to the cylinders. This will show up as a misfire/uneven running. A low compression reading on one of the cylinders will usually show up as a result. If there was no damage to the engine, it is possible that the air filter is full of water, and a little water vapour is being sucked in with the air which can cause uneven running.

You may have got water in your fuel tank if you went deep enough, which could also cause rough running.

As previously suggested by Tonk, it may just need more wd40 and a bit longer to dry out.

Tiagoc - the wading plug goes in the bottom of the bellhousing. Its purpose is primarily to stop water/mud from contaminating the clutch (though on some series gearboxes it does also prevent water from passing through to the main gearbox via the input shaft opening/bearing.

Ideally you shouldn't leave the wading plug in permanently because if the engine rear crankshaft oil seal leaks (most weep a bit anyway), the oil will build up in the bellhousing and contaminate the clutch. It is best to leave the plug out for everyday use, but remember to fit it before a days offroad playing. Take it out again at the end of the day.

Regards,

Diff

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It was only just over the bottom of the door sills, water just came into the foot wells a bit. but it is mis fireing a bit, mainly at low revs in a high gear, mainly 4th. i dont think it was deep enough to get into the air intake, i think the water level was just below the centre of the fan...

dont know if that makes any sense to you!!

how much, approx, oil do i need to fill the gearbox?

Thanks, Tank

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how much, approx, oil do i need to fill the gearbox?

Thanks, Tank

Bout 1.5 litres in the main i think. look in a haynes manual

I wouldnt have thought thats deep enough to drown. unless you where going super fast. if you can keep it running and drive it, you will find that the coughing stops within about half a mile

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They don't stall because the fan hits the water. What usually happens is that the fan, or any part of the belt system from the crank pulley up does a very efficient job of throwing water all over the engine and electrics. It usually gets thrown up onto the inside of the bonnet from where it bounces over everything.

Several things can happen:

1.Cold water hits the distributor cap which is full of nice warm air from the engine and you get virtually instant condensation on the inside of the cap which causes tracking and missfiring.

2. Any weaknessess in the insulation on any of the HT leads and their connections at the coil, distributor and spark plug will result in the spark tracking to earth through the water and missfiring.

As Tonk says, removing the mechanical fan and replacing with an electric fan can help a lot, though it does not stop some of the water being thrown up by the belt.

You may be in need of new HT Leads. If you can stop the water thrown up by the fan from hitting the dizzy and leads, it will help alot. You should use an ignition sealer like Holts damp start too. This deposits a flexible varnish over the leads and connectors and works very well, though you should spray it on clean dry leads and cap. Another trick that I have done, is to cut out 4 small circles of rubber about 30mm in diameter(eg from an innertube), punch some 8 to 10mm holes in the centre and stretch them over your plug leads at the plug end. When you have refitted the leads to the plugs, slide the circular rubber 'washers' down the lead to the cylinder head to form a seal to stop water and mud from filling up the spark plug recesses in the head. These will seal nicely with the holts damp sealer too.

My own 2.5 four cylinder has an electric fan, a home made belt guard + holts damp start + the rubber 'washers' mentioned, and my landy will happily wade through water more than half way up the doors without missfiring at all. It has standard cheapo HT leads from Paddocks, cap and ngk plugs. It still uses the points in the dizzy but with a home built Maplins electronic ignition kit and a lucas gold coil. I run on LPG 99.9% of the time.

Regards,

Diff

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I run a lightweight, same problem, splashes everywhere but with the added bonus of flat wings which funnel the water straight onto the leads and cap if it rains.

Best solution so far is a large shopping bag, I've got M & S at the moment over the top of dizzy leads etc., works brilliantly and costs nothing, easily replaceable at no further cost.

I have an Aldon igniter in mine, no problems so far.

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