ayresy Posted December 18, 2014 Share Posted December 18, 2014 Im building up ashcroft lockers and shafts into D2 axles for my challenge truck and adding ashcroft pegging kits to the diffs while im at it. But there doesn't seem to be much instruction on how to DIY the casings. Nige and ashcroft both TIG which I don't have but would arc work well enough or is it really a tig job ? I would think pre heated casings (not mad hot) a good strong arc and through threading would be adequate but dont want to blow stuff Cheers guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted December 18, 2014 Share Posted December 18, 2014 Ok some info that prob won't help You can't use MIG...you are trying to weld a Cast Steel to a prob CR steel prob S276 or similar mild steel. There are a range of problems welding dissimilar metals, one is cracking and the other penetration. for this situation you need a BIG DC TIG circa MINIMUM 200 amps, and really bigger than than. The casings I TIG have been shot and then bead blasted AND then chemically cleaned, you need to use a special rod, and if you wnat to try ARC (which I tried and it cracked too many times) you'll need to buy something like : http://products.esab.com/Templates/T041.asp?id=81755 which is NOT cheap and not normal stock, you will prob need to order it in. You need the casing to be scrupulously clean, clean clean clean, you'll need to preheat it along with the metal plates your welding in and then POST heat as well, as the 2 differing metals cool at differing rates and even then can still crak, esp ARC only...and at the same time you need to keep the plates at the right angle = flat for the drill holes / bolts to go through, which need to be drilled carefully and accurately to ensure it all lines up I have made a huge jigifmy thingy, a monster that clamps it all in palce, yet sometimes plates can still move under welding, and I mill then flat, mine is different in that my peg diffs have plates added after the intial base plate so that the unit is around 27mm thick S276. and I have the jig for the drilling and locating of the holes Even after all the above I have casings that crack, there are a range of different foundries that supply LR and having looked into this some casing have differing carbon contents and thus weld differently, sadly now I have welded up 196 of these I can tell some of the differing casings and wel accordingly differently, and yet some can still crack, or have a pin hole = a leak = ep90 will find ANY hole that is there......... I have a casing in the workshop that was a DIY welded unit, its horrendous, fair plays the guy had a go, but it leaked from day one and then cracked after some short use, as the welds "Sit" on the casting and not penetrated - combo of rods and amps and technicque. I use TIG Only, and its a very very long and meticulous process not just to weld but to get the plates right holes right and NO leaks ! Prob why I sell so many, sadder still is I absolutely love TIGging them up LOL In summary have a go, in reality its not as simple as peeps think, you might be lucky..... Lastly I am not trying to show off, show "I can TIG" nonsense, I do these for a living (must be f mad lol) and still they can crack etc, I am just trying to point out that its NOT easy, and to be done properly its either TIG and then ARC or, as in what I do just TIG. Hope this helps, but it prob doesn't lol Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted December 18, 2014 Share Posted December 18, 2014 Doesn't sound like showing off, just sounds like good welding practice for a casting. BTW, how about brazing instead? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted December 18, 2014 Share Posted December 18, 2014 No not really Welding melts the base and parent metals and mixes with rod etc gaps cab be filled and it's a physical joining of all 3 metals Brazing is good for near interference fits and good for dissimilar metals but is again highly skilled and is in effect a glue together so the base and parent metals are unmelted. As such not anywhere near as strong and big gaps not good for brazing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted December 18, 2014 Share Posted December 18, 2014 Not sure I'd agree with the strength comment (supposedly a brazed joint can be as strong as the parent metal and far less likely to crack) but if you do have big gaps to fill then yep I guess it isn't suitable. You'd still need to go to the same amount of trouble with cleaning, and then making the part a close fit is just going to make yourself more work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ayresy Posted December 18, 2014 Author Share Posted December 18, 2014 Thanks nige I thought that would be the reply. I need to invest in a TIG tbh theres so much I can use one for Would you quote me on pegging 2 diffs and quoting on 2 peggings and 2 ashcroft built up diffs (I have all the parts) I may give it a go ive got a few spare diffs lying about but I expect it may crack by what youre saying. Ive got a beast of an arc a shot blaster and a parts cleaner but if it doesn't take it doesn't take Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robertspark Posted December 18, 2014 Share Posted December 18, 2014 What about directly welding the casing and layering the weld to infill the webs using rods and arc then drilling and tapping the in filled web (using a jig). Rods are cheap arc welders are cheap and you can get good penetration and deposition rates (yes??) (Not that I need to thanks to nige for my pegged diffs. If I ever get finished to run them ... Less time on here more in the garage...!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted December 18, 2014 Share Posted December 18, 2014 Save yourself the pain Ayresy and get Nige to do it .... you never know he might take your spare diffs as a little bit of the payment ..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted December 18, 2014 Share Posted December 18, 2014 Robert, if you build up with arc rods and then drill and tap it isn't there a high likely hood of hard spots preventing the succesful drilling and tapping? Also would there not be a greater chance of cracking with all the extra arc welding? Oh and specialist rods aren't cheap Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted December 18, 2014 Share Posted December 18, 2014 I will I will ! PM you on the morning...but where About you located (hint to fill in profile !?) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ayresy Posted December 18, 2014 Author Share Posted December 18, 2014 Cheers Derbyshire near ashbourne Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robertspark Posted December 18, 2014 Share Posted December 18, 2014 Ahh learnt something else today ... Everyday a school day... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zim Posted December 19, 2014 Share Posted December 19, 2014 Nige, what filler rod do you use ? Something high in Ni? Or something like a 312 or 309? G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedLineMike Posted December 19, 2014 Share Posted December 19, 2014 @ nige was the diy casing one with a couple of bolts in it touching against the crown wheel? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ayresy Posted December 19, 2014 Author Share Posted December 19, 2014 Cheers for the call today nige I took the diff to a local fabricator today to see what he thought and he said that he would struggle to do it so I might have to visit you in the new year Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted December 19, 2014 Share Posted December 19, 2014 ...... Makes me wonder wtf is wrong with me that I enjoying welding them up lol. ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robertspark Posted December 20, 2014 Share Posted December 20, 2014 I can attest you do a good job with them plus the instructions are great (especially link the instruction on the spring washer thingys). So keep up the good work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zim Posted December 20, 2014 Share Posted December 20, 2014 There is the other way, get a diff with it made into the casing from manufacturer. Nige, this is a single bolt, and to be honest I prefer it to the slab as used in LR diffs. You wouldn't have space in a LR for a single bolt though unless you machined the diff or made a new diff / spool. G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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