A 90

[range366]

A few questions.

After, literally, years of pondering Ive now bought myself a 90, its an 89 F plate and I have to say me and the boys are thoroughly enjoying it. For some reason wifes not saying a lot about it, can,t think why!!

The chasis is sound and it doesn,t leak inside but there is a massive clunk on taking power again after changing gears although actual gear selection is fine. Also the engine is leaking oil out of the front and rear cylinders and the air filter is saturated in oil.

The two questions I have are, basically, (if its possible to answer without looking at it or driving it) do I require a new gearbox or could it be the transfer box and do I need a new engine?

It drives well and there seems to be plenty power in the engine but the dipstick level is just short of the High mark.

Also, and more worringly there is a hazard sticker on the fan cover stating that there is asbestos in the vehicle somewhere, any pointers as to exactly what part or parts have asbestos.

Gordon.

[Mark Jenkins]

I have experienced some of the symptoms that you describe on my '89 G-plate 90.

Les Henson and I spent a lot of time trying to track down the "clunks" which can be very unsettling when driving! My air filter was also saturated in oil and lots of oil leaks from worn seals etc.

-If there is oil in the air filter you might need to replace your engine's pistons and rings as they may be allowing oil to blow through. (I had this done on mine too) also replaced all the seals, gaskets etc wherever they were leaking (which was most places)

-You might need a new/recon gearbox if there is serious mainshaft wear (see below)

-You're unlikely to need a new transfer box because they are such solid units.

-You might need to replace the A-frame ball joint on the rear suspension

-If the propshafts are knackered they might need to be renewed also.

-dunno anything about asbestos....

The mainshaft and the transfer gear of the main gearbox are prone to wear: you can check this by removing the inspection plate on the to the rear of the gearbox on the passenger side (it's an ashtray-sized plate) - you can inspect the shaft and the big cog with a good torch and see if the splines are rounded off or worn badly. Mine was b*ggered (on the verge of stripping completely) and needed a new gearbox, yours may not be as badly worn.

I've tried to find the original pics of the worn mainshaft but they are no longer in Les's post, he might post them here again if we ask nicely.

Les's post shows what we did to replace the gearbox entirely.

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=6840

Changing the box did not remove the clunk though, in the end it was a replacement A-frame ball joint (rear suspension piece) and new props front and rear that really calmed things down - now it's quite civilised!

I've only been the dogsbody and spanners b*tch for Les - I recommend you get someone who knows what they're doing to have a proper look over it, but your truck's symptoms sound wearily familiar to me!

hope this is some help but people who know more about this than me will add to it I am sure!

Mark

A few questions.

After, literally, years of pondering Ive now bought myself a 90, its an 89 F plate and I have to say me and the boys are thoroughly enjoying it. For some reason wifes not saying a lot about it, can,t think why!!

The chasis is sound and it doesn,t leak inside but there is a massive clunk on taking power again after changing gears although actual gear selection is fine. Also the engine is leaking oil out of the front and rear cylinders and the air filter is saturated in oil.

The two questions I have are, basically, (if its possible to answer without looking at it or driving it) do I require a new gearbox or could it be the transfer box and do I need a new engine?

It drives well and there seems to be plenty power in the engine but the dipstick level is just short of the High mark.

Also, and more worringly there is a hazard sticker on the fan cover stating that there is asbestos in the vehicle somewhere, any pointers as to exactly what part or parts have asbestos.

Gordon.

[western]

Check all the suspension to chassis & axle bushes , the rear axle A frame joint for excess wear,

change the air filter & clean out the housing, may need a new rocker cover gasket if that's where the oil is coming from, oil level should be on the 'N' mark on the dipstick, but just above is OK, don't put anymore in.

the hazard sticker on the fan cowl is a mandatory item, they only place asbestos is likely is in the brake pads/clutch friction plate, when you do any work on these areas just wipe away any dust dn't use a airline to blow it away as you could inhale it.

hope that helps

[Phil Hancock]

they only place asbestos is likely is in the brake pads/clutch friction plate,

Also found in some gasket materials, especially head and manifolds.

[western]

they only place asbestos is likely is in the brake pads/clutch friction plate,

Also found in some gasket materials, especially head and manifolds.

Yep, & them bits.

[range366]

Guys

Many thanks for the replys, will start poking about it with my two helpers in the morning.

Gordon.

[JST]

try UJ in props for clunking as well, is it a sound or movement or both?

[NickHodgson]

Nice looking Land Rover. It looks as if it has had a re-spray as I dont think that colour would have been avaliable from the factory. Did you buy private or from a dealer?

As to the clunk - others have described the possible culprets, but......how bad is the clunk. if you are used to a little eurobox then even a new Landy driven unsympathetically can be persuaded to produce a clunk.

Check the Prop-shaft UJ's first. Remember to release the hand brake when you check the rear one or it will be too tight to detect wear. Then check the rear axle ball joint with a suitable big bit of steel.

Also looks like your bonnet safety catch is bent. when the bonnet is open the catch should be pointing down so it aligns with the hole in the slam pannel. It is easy to straighten so have a look at it.

[Mo Murphy]

Guys

Many thanks for the replys, will start poking about it with my two helpers in the morning.

Gordon.

I always found little helpers tripled the length of time it took to do a job but they were good for telling mummy that daddy needs tea

Mo

[range366]

try UJ in props for clunking as well, is it a sound or movement or both?

Hi James

The front prop shaft has a lot of movement in it, possibly as much as a quarter turn on it, so will make a start there.

Gordon

[range366]

Nice looking Land Rover. It looks as if it has had a re-spray as I dont think that colour would have been avaliable from the factory. Did you buy private or from a dealer?

As to the clunk - others have described the possible culprets, but......how bad is the clunk. if you are used to a little eurobox then even a new Landy driven unsympathetically can be persuaded to produce a clunk.

Check the Prop-shaft UJ's first. Remember to release the hand brake when you check the rear one or it will be too tight to detect wear. Then check the rear axle ball joint with a suitable big bit of steel.

Also looks like your bonnet safety catch is bent. when the bonnet is open the catch should be pointing down so it aligns with the hole in the slam pannel. It is easy to straighten so have a look at it.

Thanks, I bought it from a garage in glasgow who had just taken it as a trade in for something or other, sold as seen basically.

For the last 6 years driven auto box V8 range rovers before buying a Td 5 Disco 6 mths ago and now the

90 so I have a little knowledge of the landrover clunk!!

As prev post front prop shaft lot of movement haven't checked rear one with h/brake off yet.

Bonnet catch requires a new spring to hold it in place, old spring goosed!

Gordon