Jump to content

200 tdi head gasget


alland

Recommended Posts

hi guys after buying my disco a while back the previous owner had nearly 4 to 6 pints too much oil in it since then ive done front oil seal rear oil seal and ive got an oil leak at the back side near turbo seems like head gasget to me

so which type of head gasget would be best to go for any ideas please thx

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Tdi head gaskets depend on how far the piston protrudes above the block face, this is measured with a DTI, more info here http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=12640

also check your oil dipstick is fitted correctly, as the tube can & does slip down giving a false reading, again more info in

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=71600

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well i think ive found the culprit the bloody turbo pipe fron the side of the block to turbo steel one its been running back from that seems ok now lol thx guys ive checked dipstick its still mounted to inlet and its solid thx

Link to comment
Share on other sites

if its been overfilled by that much your going to have leaks from every seal imaginable, however before getting carried away replacing them all, reduce the oil level and use the truck for a bit. then give it a clean and you'll probably find the majority have stopped leaking....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Too much oil in an engine is ok if it's a small amount, but heavily overfilled can wreck the engine. This can cause oil frothing, which puts air into lubrication system, which affects crank, cam, etc bearings. Oil is also pushed up the bores by the action of the pistons, which can break the rings and will cause excessive smoke anyway as the oil is burned in the cylinders. Whereas engine oil pressure will be reduced (if there's air in it), crankcase pressure will increase, which then pushes oil out of the weak points (crank seals usually). Unless the lip of the seals have popped out, then drain to the correct level and see how it goes. However, if engine oil has been leaking from the front oil seal, then it might have got on the timing belt, which is bad news as it will cause premature timing belt failure.

Les.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hi les thanks ,when i bought the landy i noticed it i then a week later dropped oil out and since then done timing belt and seals was not too bad and then rocker gasget ,had to do gearbox and at same time done oil seal for all genuine ones and gasget behind starter housing also ive now found the last culprit hope fully oilfeed pipe to turbo so ill clean off enging and see but she is smoking on startup so i do suspect valve stem oil seals so thatll be a summer job :i-m_so_happy: hopefully

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Allan, you don't need to take the head off to relace the valve stem oil seals on a 300Tdi.

Do the inlet and outlet seals of each piston in turn, ensure each piston is at TDC and the valves can only drop about 0.30mm.

Remove the Rocker shaft.

For easy operation, start with No.1 piston.

Tap each valve cap gently to break the seal with the collets and in turn compress the caps, remove the collets and release the spring, replace the valve stem oil seal, recompress the cap and spring, refit the collets and then do the next valve and then when you have done No.1 cylinder turn the engine over so that Cylinder No.2 is at TDC and carry out the same operation.

When all four cylinders have been done (eight valves) replace the rocker shaft and re-set the tappet clearances at 0.02mm.

Refit the rocker cover, vents and run the engine, job done.

You can make up a simple valve spring compression tool with an old large blade screw driver, grind a slot in the blade, big enough to fit around one of the bolts that retain the rocker shaft. Fit a single bolt and use it as a fulcrum to lever the spring down with your modified tool.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I know that doing the stem seals with the head still in position is a popular subject, but this is one of the few things I would never do - especially if this being done by an amateur. Valve cap or one of the colletts could drop into a part of the head where it will end-up in the block or sump, which then makes removal of the head a lesser operation than that required to retrieve collett, cap. If you suspect stem seal failure, then why not remove the head and check valve seats, valve stem play in the guides, piston condition, bores, etc? Bitsn in the sump will just stay there [strainer will prevent it from going anywhere else], but then you have to buy a new part :]

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy