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VFD's, a bit more info?


Blanco

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Having recently been introduced to the idea of VFD's by HFH's lathe thread, I have been pondering its use on a chiller unit. The original (Leroy-Somer) 3ph motor fried itself (after 26yrs!) and finding a replacement seems impossible, particularly in single phase guise. The simplest will be to get the original re-wound, which leaves us back with 3ph, hence the VFD.

Had a look on ebay and it seems only the Chinese ones are listed there, just wondering about buying a a 2hp one for this 1hp motor, on the basis that it would be lightly stressed and therefore might last?

Alternatively does anyone have a link for a quality supplier, where I could get the right size unit with a sensible duty cycle?

As always any thoughts and tips on the subject much appreciated.

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We run 3 x teco units. Two of them are 3hp and the last one is a 0.5hp.

All very good for what we need (lathe and milling machine).

I know you're French, but i've bought 2 of them from here : http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TECO-E2-3HP-230V-3-PHASE-DIGITAL-INVERTER-CONVERTER-LATHE-MILLING-MACHINE-DRILL-/380932612438?pt=UK_BOI_Industrial_Automation_Control_ET&hash=item58b15a6156

Gordon

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Newton Tesla ( http://www.newton-tesla.co.uk/ ) are a very good company to deal with, I had a VFD off of them many years ago that I use to run my wood lathe and it's taken a lot of abuse without a problem. They were very helpful with phone support when I installed it.

I have also bought one of those chinese VFD's recently that are on ebay at the moment, I followed your school of thought and have a 2.2kw one running my drill press which is of course complete overkill. It hasn't blown up yet however I personally would get something from Newton Tesla if the application is running something that I couldn't be without, if my drill press one blows up I can swap it out for one off of a different tool to get me out of trouble ;)

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I have bought Siemens Micromaster 440s for drill and lathe from ebay. You need at least a BOP (Basic Operator Panel), some drives are sold without but the panels aren't expensive I have had no problems in over 10 years (albeit light)use. Just beware if overspeccing the drive that the peak current isn't much more than your supply otherwise it may keep tripping out.

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Forgot Newton Tesla. I've got one of their drives on my Boxford lathe, it's very good. Was less than impressed that it took me most of a day to modify the 'straight swap' motor so that it could actually be fitted mind...

Ah, I kept my old motor. If your motor isn't 230/415 wireable (star/delta) as standard and is just a 415v (star) version you can normally still rewire it relatively easily if you open it up and have a root around.

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Inverter Drive Supermarket is useful for comparing prices, and they also have a helpful 'How to' section.

http://www.inverterdrive.com/HowTo/

For home applications, it's far simpler to have a motor that will run 230V 3 phase. This is typically found as a 230V Delta/400V Star configuration.

Using an old motor (old windings) on a VFD is ok, but if the motor is on its last legs, the PWM from the VFD can cause the insulation on the windings to break down, leading to shorts either phase-phase or phase-earth.

It may be that it is more cost effective to source a new IEC frame motor and adapt the mounting, rather than get an old motor re-wound, as was the case with my Bridgeport milling machine.

Sizing an inverter is based on two key requirements - the constant duty requirement and the overload requirement. Most decent inverters will have 150% to 200% overload capability, but the RMS requirement must be below the constant duty capability of the inverter. Some manufacturers rate their inverters based on low overload (say, 10%) and others allow a much more significant overload (150%-200%) so it is important to understand how the drive is rated.

On a lathe or milling machine, overload capability is only really needed for accelerating the spindle, so the overload requirement can be reduced by reducing the acceleration rate.

Conversely, a hydraulic 2/4 post lift requires a significant overload if the motor has to start on-load, so a drive with significant head-room is required. To compare with DOL starting, a motor might take 6-9 times its rated current as starting current - for a very short period of time. An inverter controls this far more elegantly, but a standard induction motor does not product any torque at zero speed, so there are some applications where you still need to get going with some grunt.

Luke

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Ah, I kept my old motor. If your motor isn't 230/415 wireable (star/delta) as standard and is just a 415v (star) version you can normally still rewire it relatively easily if you open it up and have a root around.

A package deal seemed the best way at the time..the original motor was getting a bit tired and the cover had fallen off the capacitor...

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http://forums.lr4x4.com/uploads/post-15560-0-86459700-1422443127.jpg

Well its not the quickest route! Run into problem posting photo, try 2 or 3 solutions, in the end ask for help in 'LR4x4 Matters' find that I can attach a file to that post, and so quote the link here................. there has got to be an easier way!

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Thanks Cwazy Wabbit, just trying this on ejp's suggestion elsewhere https://www.flickr.com/photos/131060318@N08/16202396228/in/set-72157650119330748

OK added as a link seems to work;

Trying to add it in as an image from Flickr still results in: You are not allowed to use that image extension on this community.

And the same from the Gallery here. I know I am sort of sorted because I can put the link in..... but it would still be nice if it worked,... further suggestions welcome.

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just press the 'more reply options' button then 'attach file', the picture stays with the thread forever then :) It's the best way.

Back on topic now.

You are lucky in that you have a motor that can easily be changed from star to delta looking at that label. Also it's a 1HP motor. So you should be able to use that easily with a VFD.

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