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egr valve again?


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Hi all after a bit of tinkering today I think the egr valve has to go (that seems to be the general consensus on here if I'm not mistaken)the guidance I'm after is a reputable kit you guys have experience of. I'm new here so if "advertising" is fround upon I apologise but would appreciate a PM thanks simon

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EGR (Exhaust Gas Reticulation) was/is an early method to try to reduce exhaust emissions prior to the advent of catalytic exhaust converters, I think the jury is still out on it's effectiveness and efficiency as it depends on so many criteria, for example to reburn the recycled carbon emissions the combustion temperatures have to be very high, ergo it only works effectively at the higher end of the exhaust gas temperature spectrum, at the lower end (idle speed) all it does is "gunk" up the induction system. The other consideration is that it can only hope to reburn a small percentage of the exhaust gas, total reburn being impossible as there would be zero oxygen for combustion.

If your engine is in a good state of tune, injectors, induction air and turbo etc. your carbon monoxide reading should not be too far off the same reading as if it was fitted, but I'd guess this would depend on the regulations of your registration authority, here in Oz there is no exhaust gas testing taken annually for re-registration so there would be no problem in removing and discarding it.

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Modern EGR is intended to reduce peak combustion temperatures in the cylinders to reduce the production of Nitrogen Oxides (NOx) emissions - it's nothing to do with the levels of hydrocarbons or CO in the exhaust gases.

UK Diesel vehicles are only subject to an exhayst-opacity (soot-level) test and removing the EGR won't affect this.

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Modern EGR is intended to reduce peak combustion temperatures in the cylinders to reduce the production of Nitrogen Oxides (NOx) emissions - it's nothing to do with the levels of hydrocarbons or CO in the exhaust gases.

UK Diesel vehicles are only subject to an exhayst-opacity (soot-level) test and removing the EGR won't affect this.

+1

MoT does not test for Nox emissions. As a side note, EGR should only operate under 'normal' driving conditions, under WOT it should be closed. But through age they often stick open.

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The first reply in this thread would seem to be a recommendation.

Haven't done it myself (200Tdi, no EGR). But I've blanked it on other cars. Used no kit, just blanked off the ports.

That all said and done, if it "runs right out of steam at about 55-60 mph" then that doesn't sound like an EGR issue.

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If your EGR was sticking open then first and foremost you'd have trouble starting as your truck would choke on its own exhaust when cold. If it was stuck closed then you shouldn't notice anything amiss from the driver's seat. As Drumstick says - running out of puff sounds like something else....turbo maybe? What's acceleration like up to that point?

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  • 2 weeks later...

thanks chicken D and Guppy car pulls fine through all the gears, revs free enough,no weired noises or excess smoke and pulls srtong in 5th uphill,s just when it gets to 55 thats your lot

si

Mine was doing the same thing, my turbo actuator rod ( think thats spelled correctly) was sticking and my MAP sensor was all gunked up. Got those 2 things sorted, EGR removed, Power chip installed and then re-mapped and now will quite happily do 75-80 on the motorway. Even with a 3 inch lift and 35 inch tyres. Hope that helps. Oh also had the center box and cat removed on the exhaust. Next will be to change the MAF sensor as i hear these can wear out.
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thanks chicken D and Guppy car pulls fine through all the gears, revs free enough,no weired noises or excess smoke and pulls srtong in 5th uphill,s just when it gets to 55 thats your lot

si

Same symptoms on my RRS TDV6 - was the EGRs being stuck open - at lower revs the engine could handle the excess smoke going into it but got strangled at about 90 -100kph and would go no faster.

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