Anderzander Posted August 7, 2015 Share Posted August 7, 2015 i delved into my drivers door the other day to trace a break in the Electric windows - that's done but I wondered if the good folk here could help me with a couple of other thing I've uncovered to do.... 1. There was rust along the bottom rail - but it all turned out to be a thin panel that seems to have been spot welded onto the bottom rail - I'm assuming it's part of the moisture barrier... After cleaning the rust off with my grinder's new wire wheel attachment (should have got one ages ago !) the plan is to grind the welds out and remove the remains of the panel... What I was think of was buying a bit of galvanised sheet and (after rust proofing) using an adhesive to bond it to the frame. Would this be worthwhile ? And would one of the sikaflex products be appropriate ? 2. A really ignorant question - but the panel that bolts on and mounts the window mechanism has cracked through near the lock button. I plan to clean it back to metal and run a bead of weld on it........ Is it safe to do with the glass still in the door ? 3. The adhesive that held the polythene moisture barrier on is no longer sticky and I'll probably need to cut a new sheet - what could I use to stick it on again ? Is it some sort of mastic ? Any help or suggestions gratefully received ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lewis Posted August 7, 2015 Share Posted August 7, 2015 1, yes 255fc would be fine, and useful for other LR purposes 2, if you're careful yes, cover the glass with something leather (welding apron) or some thick wet rags to protect it from weld spatter 3, just tape it on with duct tape. If you are really keen buy a pot of dumdum, it's pretty similar to what was on there before Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted August 7, 2015 Author Share Posted August 7, 2015 Great ! Thank you Lewis. I'll make a start on it this weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lewis Posted August 7, 2015 Share Posted August 7, 2015 Could you not rivet the new plate on rather than bonding it? Door shedders (the plastic film bit) are only a tenner if you wanted a new one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted August 7, 2015 Author Share Posted August 7, 2015 I could do that - I guess I could spot weld it too, I was thinking bonding it would mean both surfaces could be painted and remain unbroken. I was also aware that there is a whole world of adhesives I've never tried. A further use for me might be that I have some M6 holes on my wings from chequer plate - I thought I could bond a small ally disc under it and then fill on top of it it and paint it.... Or try some of those hs2000 rod thingies .. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted August 8, 2015 Share Posted August 8, 2015 I'd take the glass out to be on the safe side Stephen, it's not hard to do. It's better than regretting not doing it afterwards ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted August 8, 2015 Author Share Posted August 8, 2015 I'm not even sure how it comes out Mo ..... I'll google for some info. It looks like it comes out with the inner panel removing, which needs the rods removing - which is what put me off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted August 8, 2015 Share Posted August 8, 2015 A further use for me might be that I have some M6 holes on my wings from chequer plate - I thought I could bond a small ally disc under it and then fill on top of it it and paint it.... Or try some of those hs2000 rod thingies ..Whilst you can do this the filler will eventually crack around the hole due to the metal moving at a different rate to the filler. I'm sorry to say the only way to fix the holes permanently is to weld them up.Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted August 8, 2015 Share Posted August 8, 2015 Learning curve, Stephen ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted August 8, 2015 Author Share Posted August 8, 2015 Thank you Mike - that's good to know. I might give that HTS2000 stuff a try then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted August 8, 2015 Author Share Posted August 8, 2015 Learning curve, Stephen ? I'm trying ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted August 8, 2015 Author Share Posted August 8, 2015 Thank you everyone - I take a lot of confidence from the info that's shared on here. It's very helpful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lewis Posted August 8, 2015 Share Posted August 8, 2015 Don't be afraid of the lock rods, they are likely the easiest part of a simple job I *think* you can get the glass out of the aperture if you take out the seals and mouldings, but that sounds like a faff BTW the cracking you have discovered is fairly common on push button doors. If you just weld the crack you will probably find it has cracked next to the weld when you next have it stripped. It's worth drilling the crack at its terminus if its not all the way through yet, then welding it fully, dressing the weld back slightly and over playing with a little fillet plate to put some strength in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave1607 Posted August 9, 2015 Share Posted August 9, 2015 You could use some butyl tape to stick the moisture barrier on, it's what is used in a lot of cars and stays sticky so you can peel it off and stick it back again. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted August 9, 2015 Author Share Posted August 9, 2015 Great idea on the tape and the fillet - thanks everyone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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