revilo.ind Posted September 9, 2015 Share Posted September 9, 2015 Hello everyone, I have a 2000 td5 defender, Ever since I bought the truck its not been quite right, Thankfully a friend has a similar td5 so I have a good comparison, 1st thing I did was the obvious mechanical bits, Poor throttle responce -> blank off egr assumed stuck open, Slight stuttering mid revs -> changed mass airflow sensor. Down on power -> fitted uprated alloy intercooler. Symptoms, poor throttle response, feels like boost lag, a good 2-3 seconds before full boost. Revs are holding between gear changes, weird but I got used to it. Seems down on power, have to really rev it to make it move and it feels rough at higher rpms. Checked everything with nanocom, switches and sensors all seem fine. Was getting no where untill the otherday I heard it might be the throttle position sensor, checked the readings on nanocom and theres a glitch at about full throttle on track 3, I have heard that it can be reset in the ecu by pressing the throttle pedal five times turn of the restart, and hooray this solves it, for 30 seconds. Plenty of power and instant throttle. Now is my problem the throttle sensor, or is it fuel related, as also doing the pedal reset primes the fuel pump and does a purge cycle. So is it fuel pump related and the throttle pedal fault is just a coincidence and not whats causing the power issues. Any help would be much appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted September 9, 2015 Share Posted September 9, 2015 All pretty normal for a TD5, slow, unresponsive and needs revving Seriously though, the fault wouldn't have logged unless it was there at some point, re-check to see if it reoccurs, though I suspect this is the issue in this case, 30 seconds doesn't seem long enough to indicate a fuel problem solved by a purge. IIRC there are many reported problems with the loom to the throttle pedal wearing through, so use a meter/test light to check it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotts90 Posted September 9, 2015 Share Posted September 9, 2015 The pedals themselves are known to fail...may be worth a swap with your mates if it's the same type? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ally V8 Posted September 10, 2015 Share Posted September 10, 2015 Scotts 90 is right, if you suspect the throttle pedal,just make sure its the same - 2 or 3 track type and swop it. There are only 2 ways to diagnose a faulty throttle pedal,substitution as you can and with an oscilliscope. The readings from diagnostic tools like Nanocom refresh too slowly to be of any real value.Normally if the tracks on the pedal wear the engine ecu will drop the revs to idle and illuminate the Mil. Another check you can do is to make sure the wastegate on the turbo is held fully shut at rest.I've seen a few where they have been messed around with and the flap has leaked,at low revs the turbo then cant build boost quickly enough,but is OK once it "gets up on top of it". You could also check the max boost under full load/throttle,this should be 220-230Kpa, which the engine should be able to achieve by about 1800rpm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revilo.ind Posted September 10, 2015 Author Share Posted September 10, 2015 Scotts 90 is right, if you suspect the throttle pedal,just make sure its the same - 2 or 3 track type and swop it. There are only 2 ways to diagnose a faulty throttle pedal,substitution as you can and with an oscilliscope. The readings from diagnostic tools like Nanocom refresh too slowly to be of any real value.Normally if the tracks on the pedal wear the engine ecu will drop the revs to idle and illuminate the Mil. Another check you can do is to make sure the wastegate on the turbo is held fully shut at rest.I've seen a few where they have been messed around with and the flap has leaked,at low revs the turbo then cant build boost quickly enough,but is OK once it "gets up on top of it". You could also check the max boost under full load/throttle,this should be 220-230Kpa, which the engine should be able to achieve by about 1800rpm. Cheer, theres no issue with the turbo, actuator moves freely, boost correctly and no faults codes of any conciquence, but it seems to only way to fix it is to do the pedal reset/fuel purge sequence, and its a massive improvement so I know somethings not right,Have a pedal cheap so will get it and see if thqt fixes it, I have heard it may be ecu, so im looking for an NNN ecu so I can remap it, hoping to kill two birds with one stone there. If anyone has any ideas or things i can test let me know, loving the landy but anything to improve it is definitely on the agenda. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revilo.ind Posted September 10, 2015 Author Share Posted September 10, 2015 Since where talking about the pedal, I had assumed that being a 2000 car it would have a 2 way pedal, however the car had a bulkhead change in 2006, and I thought maybe they never swapped the pedal over, So in nanocom I changed the ecu to read a 3 track pedal and not a 2 track pedal, (apparently this cant be done but mine did) and to my suprise, no change. Ill swap in back in nanocom and see if it helps, but still suspecting that 3rd track is affecting the ecu somehow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revilo.ind Posted September 16, 2015 Author Share Posted September 16, 2015 Quick update, ordered a throttle pedal, cant complain at £6 delivered, its an early 2 track, will be fitted soon, However it looks like an ecu upgrade is in store, will be loading a stage 2 map on it when its up and running, And in other news my clutch switch has packed up entirely, reading doesn't change at all. If anyone knows where to get one, ebay is £22 delivered which seems a little steep. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revilo.ind Posted September 21, 2015 Author Share Posted September 21, 2015 Pedal fitted, all fixed, its still not amazing but I think that may be down to the larger intercooler now, but all shoukd be sorted when I remap it, stage should do nicely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotts90 Posted September 21, 2015 Share Posted September 21, 2015 Glad to hear the pedal has cured your issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revilo.ind Posted October 15, 2015 Author Share Posted October 15, 2015 Dont suppose anybody is folowing anymore but like to finish a thread, Went online and found an ecu through a breaker, Installed and programmed through nancom, Found an open source webiste for td5 maps (cant remember the name) About 5 maps availible and of course I went for the most powerful. And holy carp, it flies, like **** of a shovel. Runs really sweet and chucks out smoke if you put your foot down, does say the boost needs to be upped, however im hitting my boost cut at the moment so need a boost box, My old ecu was knackered, the new one runs smoother and weirdly picks up more faults codes, A noisy crank signal and coolant temp sensor, Will fix those and itll run even better, With the old map it boosted to 1.01 bar, now it hits 1.14 and stutters a bit so I think thats the boost cut, id like about 1.3 bar maybe 1.5bar to clear up the smoke. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotts90 Posted October 15, 2015 Share Posted October 15, 2015 Always nice to get a bit of closure! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedLineMike Posted October 16, 2015 Share Posted October 16, 2015 Dont suppose anybody is folowing anymore but like to finish a thread, Went online and found an ecu through a breaker, Installed and programmed through nancom, Found an open source webiste for td5 maps (cant remember the name) About 5 maps availible and of course I went for the most powerful. And holy carp, it flies, like **** of a shovel. Runs really sweet and chucks out smoke if you put your foot down, does say the boost needs to be upped, however im hitting my boost cut at the moment so need a boost box, My old ecu was knackered, the new one runs smoother and weirdly picks up more faults codes, A noisy crank signal and coolant temp sensor, Will fix those and itll run even better, With the old map it boosted to 1.01 bar, now it hits 1.14 and stutters a bit so I think thats the boost cut, id like about 1.3 bar maybe 1.5bar to clear up the smoke. Dont fit a boost box, Pete at Bell Auto services can recalibrate your ecu settings to increase the boost limit internally Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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