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What's the best repair option for corroded aluminium door skins?


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My aluminium door skins are suffering corrosion (galvanic?) about 12 inches from the bottom, and need repair before they totally disintegrate. I've already renewed the steel frames and ensured insulation between the steel and aluminium. Replacement skins is not an option - I'm in Canada, and the freight would be prohibitive, so what are my options, please? I have a Lincoln MIG welder, but not the aluminium welding accessory, but could get it if necessary. (Repairing door skins is a good excuse to get a new toy tool. ;) Repairing the door frames was my excuse to buy the welder!).

All experiences, advice and suggestions will be gratefully received. Many thanks, in advance, for your thoughts.

Mike

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The trouble with this corrosion is that you can only ever keep it at bay, never be rid of it entirely.

You can make a darned good filler and paint job, but in my experience it'll be back within a couple of years ?

I've experimented with gentle use of a wire cup wheel and a drill to clean up with rough surface, but you can never be right into the porous corroded surface. Then a good wash with soapy water and point a blow gun into the holes. If the weather is nice and warm it should hopefully dry out more easily prior to painting.

There are expensive solutions (acids) they use on aircraft to deal with aluminium corrosion, but I've never gone so far as trying any.

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I hear what you're saying about costs of importing new skins. However, thinking further, I recall reading about a chap the made his own door skins from ally sheet. He made a wooden template to form the lift up door handle aperture and rolled 'shoulder'.

I'd say this is a bit easier with a lift handle series door, than a push button Defender door.

There are some clever folk out there.

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The best thing for 'home fix' is probably single-pack epoxy glue. You can shift the corroded ally with the same phosphoric acid that eats rust. Rough the surface of the new sheet, apply the glue, stick together and heat it until it goes hard.

The glue is typically grey, stored cold and used on car and plane manufacture. We use loads at work. It's also great for 'caulking' joints.

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