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Everything posted by oneandtwo

  1. There were some really poor pattern late servos sold around that time. Check to see if the mounting studs for the master cylinder pass through the inside of the servo to brace it. The poor quality ones did not have the studs passing through the servo, the studs were just attached to the outer face so that when the brake was applied with force the servo flexed and distorted.
  2. When pipes replaced I now wrap the mild steel unions in Denso tape as I had to replace all my already replaced lines after 4 years when the unions had rusted way to nothing.
  3. The build sheet for my 76 series 3 was tucked in the rear tub support struts. I found it when I scrapped it!
  4. I have had this twice in r cent years with that bush and also the two part replacements. Took a couple of purchases to obtain one which was long enough to use.
  5. One of the reasons the adjustable chassis rail was introduced for 1999 was to combat rear body distortion. Look at any factory chassis such as on a Puma and the rear crossmember is not straight all the way across- the outer sections always distort when the crossmember is welded to the main rails. The adjustable rail is to allow for the body to be bolted to the crossmember without being affected by this distortion. To set the rear body up on the late crossmember the body sits on the outside of the mounting rail (I’ve seen a few where people have mounted the rail on the outside of the body!). You then adjust the rear body so it is vertically in line with centre face of rear crossmember.
  6. I have always fitted new ETL100430 td5 one piece mat to any 300tdi I’ve owned, they were £120 last time I bought one.
  7. The td5 / tdci has much larger holes in the chassis for the wiring looms to pass through than pre 98. td5 / tdci wiring loom exits from the right rail outer face not inner face as stated above.
  8. Use Soudal Carbond instead of sikaflex - sikaflex is unpaintable.
  9. My procomps didn’t last six months before rusting and seals failed. Craddocks wanted nothing to do with them. I replaced them with £15 each 109” one ton front dampers and 88” HD rears and have been fine for years.
  10. That crossmember could be replaced properly as the rest of the chassis is good. By properly I mean just replacing the crossmember exactly as it was built without extensions which in my view are a bit of a bodge - it’s a bit more work but the bare crossmember is cheaper.
  11. It takes under ten minutes to swap the dash top!
  12. Its not metallic as it’s a base model - it is Caledonian Blue
  13. It lost power at the top end - on a motorway incline it felt like it was being held back. It was a 300tdi with only a very rotation of the diaphragm / fuel pin but fitted with full width AlliSport intercooler and foam air filter.
  14. My extortionately expensive genuine Land Rover snorkel noticeable affected the top end power of my old 300tdi, however I fitted the same model snorkel to my Puma and didn’t make any noticeable difference.
  15. Bleed hole has probably been blocked for years - it’s only when the pump is drained down of fuel that it becomes an issue.
  16. Revised bracket has two sliding bushes similar to an alternator mounting where it mounts to pump to prevent pump being overtightened onto a misaligned bracket. Also you need to make a small gasket to pack out the central mounting bolt of the timing case cover - kits sometimes come with this gasket included, sometimes they don’t. If gasket not fitted it distorts the cover when central bolt tightened.
  17. Fit revised injector bracket ERR6835 if not already fitted, they can be picked up second hand cheaply now.
  18. I’ve posted about this before but you can get an airlock in the pump if the tiny bleed hole is blocked in the return line banjo bolt at the top rear of the pump, which cause the exact symptoms you have - no fuel reaching the pump head / fuel solenoid. Try removing this banjo bolt from the return line fitting on the pump and turning the engine over, this will bleed air from the pump if the hole or integral filter s blocked and hopefully engine will start. Hole in banjo bolt can be cleaned out with a strand of wire.
  19. I converted my 2a lightweight to twin speed with park using a series headlight switch, if any use? Didn’t require any cutting into loom either.
  20. I had a LR genuine parts exchange 300tdi about ten years ago which had the worst paint job imaginable from the factory, it appeared to have had a bucket of grey hammerite dumped on it from above covering everything, head, inlet, block, timing case and sump, before the application of Genuine Parts decals and dataplate. It was all peeling off the alloy parts when it arrived, ten years on it has almost all fallen off!
  21. Rear main bearing t seals failing and poorly sealed sump can cause second leak. I’ve had to replace two rotten 300tdi sumps now!
  22. I have had a Denso 100amp 300tdi alternator for 3 years, The pulley was perfectly in line with the other pulleys on the engine straight out of the box - most others I have had over the years usually require shimming of the alternator to get it perfectly in line to reduce belt wear.
  23. My 2a stick rattled incessantly despite new oring (didn’t last long) I ended up buying a pattern s3 gearstick for little over £10 as it was fitted with nylon bush on ball instead of oring. I bent the stick to s2a shape and cut the thread in the top to fit 2a knob - works perfectly with absolutely no rattle.
  24. I once returned a Britool torque wrench and breaker bar to them for warranty in mid 2000s. The torque wrench was replaced but the breaker bar couldn’t be replaced because it wasn’t made by that Britool but the other Britool!! Still love the last of the English made satin spanner’s from late 90’s. All that is left of them now in Cannock is a giant spanner sculpture where the factory once stood
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