WesBrooks Posted August 12, 2016 Share Posted August 12, 2016 Hi All, I'm planning to swap the project vehicle (not on road, won't be for a few years) over to a galvanised chassis early next year. The kit body is currently resting on the original chassis. Plan is to swap it all over and destroy the old chassis keeping lots of photos and the stamped VIN section. Currently unsure about plans for the suspension. It's currently on +2" springs, so it will either be back to stock with new shocks, springs, and bushings or complete the lift properly with adjustable panhard rod, caster correction, and maybe if bonus is good that year extended articulation a frame etc. Either way I'm leaving that until later when cash is in place to get the bits all in one lump. Question is with so much being left to a later date and when it's possible to lift the body without much fuss is it only the nuts and bolts that are work changing at this point? I thought about bushings but guess aftermarket a frame, radius arms, or trailing arms may change the required bushings - or come with new bushings? Cheers, Wes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WesBrooks Posted August 12, 2016 Author Share Posted August 12, 2016 With regards the nuts and bolts where do people advise for good quality stainless steel nuts and bolts? Buy them as nut and bolt kits or from a fastener supplier? Guess the latter wouldn't be interested in small quantity sales. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted August 12, 2016 Share Posted August 12, 2016 Got to be very careful with stainless bolts and suspension components, - I wouldn't use them in all honesty.... they are difficult to get in correct grade and at that point become prohibitively expensive. Normal galved bolts are perfectly suited, and cheap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WesBrooks Posted August 12, 2016 Author Share Posted August 12, 2016 Fair enough. Thanks for the feedback, glad I asked! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted August 12, 2016 Share Posted August 12, 2016 I would only fit new bushes if you are keeping the existing suspension parts and going back to standard height - new bushes will be a nuisance to fit, remove and refit, and the bushes at the chassis end of each of the suspension arms will be permanently distorted but a lift without corrected arms. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WesBrooks Posted August 17, 2016 Author Share Posted August 17, 2016 Making progress! Thanks for the advice so far. As with many things on this project plans are swaying back and forth but so far the approach of not buying things until they are needed/will be fitted imminently seems to have saved the financial chaos this could create. Having looked carefully at the bits I'd like to get the cost suggests this may be a good project for a few years after getting it on the road. So original questions change slightly to what is suggested to improve standard height suspension. Are there ways to improve articulation which should be considered? Edit: Forgot the more on topic question! Currently the truck is on axle stands while in the garage, but these won't lift high enough to hold the chassis up while we strip things off. Is it a case of bodge your own or are there economic options for stands suitable to hold the chassis up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WesBrooks Posted August 17, 2016 Author Share Posted August 17, 2016 This is the closest I've come:http://www.frost.co.uk/shell-cradle.html For that money (not as bad as the body roller though...) I'd be inclined to wait until I have my welder sorted and build my own! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daan Posted August 17, 2016 Share Posted August 17, 2016 Put your stands on top of a wheel? With regards to the original question: 2" lift does not require anything particualy special. Just make sure you relocate the shock mounts up and use longer shocks that match the available travel. Also use genuine rubber bushes from the landrover dealer. They are spendy but worth it. Daan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WesBrooks Posted August 17, 2016 Author Share Posted August 17, 2016 ...Also use genuine rubber bushes from the landrover dealer. They are spendy but worth it. Daan Better than polyurethane? Not talking the cheapest here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WesBrooks Posted August 17, 2016 Author Share Posted August 17, 2016 I've searched and found a few threads. Reading through them now. I appreciate the cheap ones will be naff but would like to be sure it's not a brand loyalty thing with and rover bushings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
honitonhobbit Posted August 17, 2016 Share Posted August 17, 2016 I'd use SuperPro bushes - like OEM Rubber just better Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daan Posted August 17, 2016 Share Posted August 17, 2016 Better than polyurethane? Not talking the cheapest here. If you use the max articulation a lot, genuine rubber is the best. Polyurethane is too solid for this. The holes turn oval or your bolts start moving in the brackets. I have heard about people ( as above) use superpro, but for offroading, go genuine rubber. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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