Mutley Posted August 20, 2016 Share Posted August 20, 2016 It would appear I NEED a new fuel tank as the one I have seems to be leaking badly! Grrrrrrr more dollar!!! So how easy is it to remove the old tank and re-fit a new one, plus any other parts that I am likely to need due to damage/breaking when doing this also any advise in doing the job would be great too??? Regards Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulcan bomber Posted August 20, 2016 Share Posted August 20, 2016 Vehicle? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mutley Posted August 20, 2016 Author Share Posted August 20, 2016 Defender 90 300tdi ......... Part number for Fuel tank is ESR2242??? And if any body has one in good sound condition laying about that they want to donate/sell please get in touch, as this is my daily ride so needs sorting ASAP If I am to buy new which one Bearmach , Britpart etc??? All the best Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Poore Posted August 20, 2016 Share Posted August 20, 2016 I've got one lying around but it's a 110 one unfortunately Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mutley Posted August 23, 2016 Author Share Posted August 23, 2016 Ok ordered a Bearmach tank and new seals, will give it a bit of a rub down then a couple of coats of Bonda Primer rust proof paint, then black Hammerite and when fitted a final coat of 3M schutz for good measure! So any thing I need to know look out for when removing old tank or refitting new tank??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonb Posted August 23, 2016 Share Posted August 23, 2016 Getting to the big jubilee clip that holds the rubber filler pipe to the tank is a right PITA, maybe easy to unbolt hose from metal filler on body and finally then disconnect with tank out. Refit same way. Side sills below door often get in the way and make it a tight wriggle in for the tank, maybe easier to remove ally panel and galvanised main sill rail - except nuts are likely to be all corroded. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Disco-Ron Posted August 23, 2016 Share Posted August 23, 2016 A tip I was given was to fill the gap between the cradle and the tank with sealant.... it stops carp getting in which will get wet and hardly ever dry out... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex Member Posted August 23, 2016 Share Posted August 23, 2016 They install them with the seatbox out...... Getting them in and out with the seatbox in, is possible, but very, very tight!! I would try and add some undercoating between the skid plate and the tank as that is where they rust out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reiny Posted August 26, 2016 Share Posted August 26, 2016 Removing it and fitting it with the seat box in is possible, in fact it's what is normally done, but my God is it a PITA! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.