Jocklandjohn Posted October 2, 2016 Share Posted October 2, 2016 Quick query - timing pin kits - lots of them about in various places mostly Eb*y. Are they all pretty much of a muchness or are there 'precision' differences between cheap and more expensive ones that warrants the (often significant) price difference? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted October 2, 2016 Share Posted October 2, 2016 bought my set off ebay, decent price & have been fine in use, they came in a blow moulded red case, a Neilsen CT1954 12piece kit & fit all the LR 4cylinder engines. same as this set http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-Diesel-Engine-Timing-Garage-Tool-Set-Kit-200-TDI-300-TDI-2-5D-2-5TD-/141027669413?hash=item20d5e775a5:g:uGQAAOxy3HJTI2gR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jocklandjohn Posted October 2, 2016 Author Share Posted October 2, 2016 Cheers Ralph - good call - that'll do just fine. Thank you! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted October 3, 2016 Share Posted October 3, 2016 I quick FYI - I've got one of those kits too and what you'll find is that the fuel pump timing pin has a larger knurled nobble on the end of it, unfortunately once its inserted and the belt is off, if like me you wanted to remove the timing chest to do the oil seals/gasket, you can't get the pulley off the FIP sprocket as the knurled nobble is too big, so if you do want to totally remove the FIP pulley you'll have to cut the knurled knobble off the pin before you use it.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elbekko Posted October 4, 2016 Share Posted October 4, 2016 You don't need the pin anymore after the belt is off though? It's only necessary for refitting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted October 7, 2016 Share Posted October 7, 2016 Once the pin is in - its in (in my experience?), every pump I've played with there has been a sprung force trapping the pin in the hole, only allowing you to remove it when the timing belt is tensioned up...? or am I missing something? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elbekko Posted October 7, 2016 Share Posted October 7, 2016 A bit yeah, just put a socket on the nut and line it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shamo Posted October 7, 2016 Share Posted October 7, 2016 3 hours ago, Maverik said: Once the pin is in - its in (in my experience?), every pump I've played with there has been a sprung force trapping the pin in the hole, only allowing you to remove it when the timing belt is tensioned up...? or am I missing something? I've got the same with my pin but once the belt is in place it's fine like yours even with a socket placed on it and turned it just goes back to the same place so just leave it as is ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jocklandjohn Posted October 7, 2016 Author Share Posted October 7, 2016 Got a kit, all the pins for diesels. However there are absolutely no instructions provided at all and although I recognise what all the bits are for, the fact that there are (apparently) 4 of the sprung screw-in pins that will go into the bottom of bell housing is perplexing! It's this one. Any suggestions? (contact vendor?) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted October 7, 2016 Share Posted October 7, 2016 Quote However there are absolutely no instructions provided at all It's this one. Any suggestions? (contact vendor?) You have instructions now = http://www.tooled-up.com/artwork/ProdPDF/VS129.PDF I found these a while ago, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jocklandjohn Posted October 7, 2016 Author Share Posted October 7, 2016 Ah Ralph you're a star. If you don't get a mention in the New Years Honours list for services to British motoring history then there's no justice in this world! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted October 7, 2016 Share Posted October 7, 2016 your welcome, forgot I had those sheets printed & in my timing pin set until I opened the case just before posting the link Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jocklandjohn Posted October 22, 2017 Author Share Posted October 22, 2017 Resurrecting this older thread for some advice please. Despite Ralph's excellent pointer to the instructions, now that I come to actually use the kit I am flummoxed as to which pin is intended for the 200tdi as there is no ID numbers on the box and the actual instructions mention numbers which don't match the pins despite it being the correct instructions for the kit. The set has four pins - one small one, and three larger with knurled flat knobs on the end. I had a look at a couple of videos on youtuba and as far as I can establish the three pins are from left to right (possibly) the old 2.5D, 300tdi and 200tdi. As you can see in the pictures two of the pins are marked G and 2. Pin G is spring loaded so it always is in the UP position. The other two are NOT sprung. Can anyone confirm the pin I need for the 200tdi is the one on the right (marked 2)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted October 22, 2017 Share Posted October 22, 2017 Use No 2, should be spring loaded, [the internal spring can be moved to whichever pin is in use, just had mine apart] I get engine set just before TDC, fit pin 2 into flywheel so it goes in the Narrow slot then rotate so pin 'clicks' into the slot = TDC achieved Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jocklandjohn Posted October 22, 2017 Author Share Posted October 22, 2017 1 hour ago, western said: Use No 2, should be spring loaded, [the internal spring can be moved to whichever pin is in use, just had mine apart] I get engine set just before TDC, fit pin 2 into flywheel so it goes in the Narrow slot then rotate so pin 'clicks' into the slot = TDC achieved Thanks Ralph. thats genius - I was mentally going through the process - rotate crank to approx position, insert pin, spring pressure ensures it goes PING when it hits the slot, confirm flywheel mark aligns with web, good to go. Then I realised there was no spring in the pin so how was I going to be underneath holding the pin up at the same time as rotating crank.... so the spring is interchangeable...would never have guessed! Thank you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted October 22, 2017 Share Posted October 22, 2017 My No 2 [on left] & G pins side by side stripped down, the end cap unscrews, so the spring can be moved between pins Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jocklandjohn Posted October 22, 2017 Author Share Posted October 22, 2017 1 hour ago, western said: My No 2 [on left] & G pins side by side stripped down, the end cap unscrews, so the spring can be moved between pins Ha! If you'd not told me I'd never have guessed - there's no indication they can do that! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted October 22, 2017 Share Posted October 22, 2017 the older engines fly wheel timing pin fits from above so they don't need the spring loaded action, whereas tdi fits in bottom of fly wheel housing & needs the spring to keep the pin in place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jocklandjohn Posted October 22, 2017 Author Share Posted October 22, 2017 12 minutes ago, western said: the older engines fly wheel timing pin fits from above so they don't need the spring loaded action, whereas tdi fits in bottom of fly wheel housing & needs the spring to keep the pin in place. Makes sense. Spring is very tight though (just tried it), but will work fine. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted October 22, 2017 Share Posted October 22, 2017 your welcome, Yes it works fine for me, doing a full engine rebuild on my 200tdi, should be collecting freshly rebored block, crank, head back on Weds, then put it all back together hopefully for another 20+ years & 300,000+ miles service. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jocklandjohn Posted October 22, 2017 Author Share Posted October 22, 2017 38 minutes ago, western said: your welcome, Yes it works fine for me, doing a full engine rebuild on my 200tdi, should be collecting freshly rebored block, crank, head back on Weds, then put it all back together hopefully for another 20+ years & 300,000+ miles service. Excellent! I'm on 285,000 miles but only 185,000 of those were on the 200Tdi engine. If I can manage it this vehicle is going to see me out! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted October 23, 2017 Share Posted October 23, 2017 my 200 has covered 397.500 since I bought it new back in mid '94, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8 Freak Posted October 24, 2017 Share Posted October 24, 2017 16 hours ago, western said: my 200 has covered 397.500 since I bought it new back in mid '94, You'll be able to call that properly "run in" in about 100k Ralph !!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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