Bandog Posted February 4, 2017 Share Posted February 4, 2017 (edited) Dear men, wondering how much service life you get out of your wide angle prop ujs? With your raised defenders etc. Do you get vibration at speed from the prop? My series is raised, but nothing like on stilts, it has rocky Mountain parabolics, (no longer available in u.k.) but, it's an 88" with a Salisbury axle, so the prop shaft at the back is very short, and, because of this runs at a steep angle. It's a disco 2 prop I had shortened and balanced. The prop was already phased, so they left it be. I have put lucas heavy duty green grease in the joints, because it's a high melting point grease. Just wondering if it's worth getting a 35 degree one to be on the safe side? It's very close to binding if it was an inch higher. I estimate it's running around 19-20 degrees. Thanks. Ps the rear prop is 16" short. Edited February 4, 2017 by Bandog Needed additional information Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted February 5, 2017 Share Posted February 5, 2017 If the yolks don't foul the flange or prop tube, then leave them as is. You may need to tickle them with a grinder to bevel the material above the circlips a little to increase clearance. Is your rear diff still horizontal? If so, the UJs should be in line with each other, not phased, otherwise you will get significant vibration. Phasing is only appropriate where the UJs are bent by different amounts at each end, but if the diff pinion is still horizontal, then the deflections will be equal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bandog Posted February 5, 2017 Author Share Posted February 5, 2017 (edited) The dif nose points up hill a tad. It was OK before but it had an in line prop. This is like it came off the disco 2 rear. So it was phased for that vehicle?? Edited February 5, 2017 by Bandog Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted February 6, 2017 Share Posted February 6, 2017 Could you post some photos of the spring mounts and bump stops and the diff inclination, please? You mention it's lifted and on parabolics (which give some lift) - is it only the springs, or do you have 1-Ton shackles too? If you do, go back to standard shackles to get the diff inclination horizontal and you can match the UJs with confidence that it'll give the least prop vibration. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bandog Posted February 6, 2017 Author Share Posted February 6, 2017 (edited) OK. Will do. It's got standard shackles, but whoever did the Salisbury conversation, welded the spring mounts in so that the diff points up hill. It's only a tad though. It's got a fair bit more weight to add yet. So it's got to come down some more yet too. Edited February 6, 2017 by Bandog Add pics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
biasbilt Posted February 6, 2017 Share Posted February 6, 2017 Don't forget that the nose of the diff will rise slightly under torque which will increase the angle between the 2 flanges (ooer missus). Should really be down by a couple of degrees or so they are parallel when driving Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuko Posted February 7, 2017 Share Posted February 7, 2017 You have the propshaft on backwards. The slide is always facing forward, turn it around and let us know how feels aftwards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted February 7, 2017 Share Posted February 7, 2017 Tuko is right; the slip joint should be up at the transmission end. For the small inclination you have, I'd recommend setting the yolks in line as per a standard Series prop shaft. Make sure it's the inner yolks (ie. on the shaft itself) that align, not one from the shaft and one from the opposite flange. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bandog Posted February 7, 2017 Author Share Posted February 7, 2017 5 hours ago, tuko said: You have the propshaft on backwards. The slide is always facing forward, turn it around and let us know how feels aftwards. It's on like that for a reason, better clearance. Right way it fouls Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuko Posted February 7, 2017 Share Posted February 7, 2017 Bear with me as I'm replying with my cell phone, a while back Soren from Denmark started a thread on DIY wide angle propshafts. Search for it, we uploaded a few pictures of the conversion which I think can be helpful to you. If you apply the technique that we are using, I know that you will get the clerance that your out after so that you can use the propshaft in the proper manner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bandog Posted February 8, 2017 Author Share Posted February 8, 2017 On 07/02/2017 at 2:45 AM, tuko said: I would really appreciate that. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToyRoverlander Posted February 8, 2017 Share Posted February 8, 2017 I'm not sure it actually mattera where the sliding joint is located. I've got a high angle front shaft with 180mm slider, which sits at the diff end. Been like that for about 8years now without problems. The rear shaft is a DC unit, slider near the diff. No issues at all. When the u joints don't bind and the flanges are parallel it's all good. If not a solution must be found. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daan Posted February 8, 2017 Share Posted February 8, 2017 The slider joint can be either way, its just that upwards means it is less likely to get contaminated with mud or a boot getting pushed away by a branch or something. Looking at that angle, I would be tempted to up the diff nose and go for the 'w' configuration, meaning the u/js will be the same angle. It does mean that the front pinion bearing has less lubrication. Maybe raise the oil level? Of course if it works as is then leave it. Daan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimyd Posted February 8, 2017 Share Posted February 8, 2017 I'm no expert on propshafts, but my limited understanding is that the reason the yoaks need to be in line is to cancel the speed change in the joints as the shaft goes round. I understand there is a calculation for working out propshafts phase to flange alignment, but never really looked into it! The fact the sliding joint is at the diff end should make no difference as to vibration, just that dirt is more likely to get in. If you need to phase the shaft as the picture looks then I would recommend sorting the clearance issue and re aligning the joints. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bandog Posted February 8, 2017 Author Share Posted February 8, 2017 On 07/02/2017 at 2:45 AM, tuko said: Valuable input thanks all Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lo-fi Posted February 9, 2017 Share Posted February 9, 2017 Some really good explanation here: http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/Driveline-101.shtml#CardanDefined And the article Tuko mentioned about Soren's wide angle mod: A tricky situation... Maybe it's worth calculating how much prop angle you can lose by pointing the diff nose up in line with the prop verses what disappears in length using a double cardan at the transfer end like some of the front setups (I forget which, maybe disco 2) do? The pictures suggest it might be quite effective. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted February 11, 2017 Share Posted February 11, 2017 On 09/02/2017 at 0:03 AM, jimyd said: I'm no expert on propshafts, but my limited understanding is that the reason the yoaks need to be in line is to cancel the speed change in the joints as the shaft goes round. I understand there is a calculation for working out propshafts phase to flange alignment, but never really looked into it! The fact the sliding joint is at the diff end should make no difference as to vibration, just that dirt is more likely to get in. If you need to phase the shaft as the picture looks then I would recommend sorting the clearance issue and re aligning the joints. All correct. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bandog Posted February 13, 2017 Author Share Posted February 13, 2017 I can get a wide angle prop 35 degree for about 200 quid from the good people at wilsons Nottingham. The question though, that really does beg to be answered, is why was the prop phased on the discovery 200tdi as standard from the factory??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted February 13, 2017 Share Posted February 13, 2017 Because of the aforementioned difference in angle on the drive flanges on the diff vs the T-box output. No matter what changes I've made to the suspension of my Series trucks, I've always had least vibration with the factory straight phasing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bandog Posted February 13, 2017 Author Share Posted February 13, 2017 That is good then for my set up, because the diff points up hill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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