Jump to content

EDIS Coil Pack Mounting, and Plug Leads


Damon

Recommended Posts

but aside from being a bit short of space (would have been one each side) I was worried about losing the really good earth to the block,

Dont worry about that, have you seen the length of spark these things will do? Just let it jump from the bulkhead to the engine :lol:

(Joke)

I have just fitted a Thor manifold (to earlier engine) i have mounted mine quite nicely down the back of the manifold.

Will post some pics asap.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Tom - I thought about mounting the coils on the bulkhead, but aside from being a bit short of space (would have been one each side) I was worried about losing the really good earth to the block, especially as I'd had a fair bit of trouble with dodgy earth straps with the original ignition. I take it you don't have any problems?

No problems at all. As far as i know the mounting bolts the coil packs use don't need to be separately earthed. They are supplied with a 12v ignition switched live feed and to fire the coil, the ECU grounds then releases the negative side of each coil.

Vis (for direct drive coils): http://www.extraefi.co.uk/Drawings/8cy_Coil_Pack_Wiring.JPG

MS is fussy about the quality of earthed connections (for sensors, etc) so best to bring them all back to the same point which has a good connection to the negative terminal of the battery. This ensures there's no voltage difference between the different earth points (otherwise it gets wonky readings from the sensors)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dont worry about that, have you seen the length of spark these things will do? Just let it jump from the bulkhead to the engine :lol:

(Joke)

I amused myself comparing sparks from the EDIS and (still present) standard ignition when I first fitted it. It wouldn't be exaggerating to say the EDIS was heavy artillery to the dizzy's damp squib... I think someone managed to get some passable photos and post them on here a year or two back?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I feel that heat is no issue with the coil mount on the r/h face of the plenum:

pic: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?act=atta...st&id=11034

When you measure the inlet air temperature at the throttle disc position (with an IAT sensor that rests in a bung welded to the plenum; not the best position admittedly) you´d get about 30°C in operation at these. Maybe it´s a little hotter at the other side of the plenum as the fresh and probably cooling air will dissipate in the plenum.

OTOH I cannot remember having had a problem in putting a hand on the plenum housing when the engine is hot and even in summer. So the temperatures are safely below 50°C or even below 40°C.

I chose that position before I saw alternatives like above the water pump. At least it´s very vibration-proof like that :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'll take the plans to work and scan them - might be day after tomorrow as I need to make some phone calls tomorrow lunch time.

Apologies - work's been manic this week and I haven't had a chance to scan the plans. I'll do them as soon as I can.

I have just fitted a Thor manifold (to earlier engine) i have mounted mine quite nicely down the back of the manifold.

Will post some pics asap.

Looking forward to this :) How does the Thor manifold compare for height to the earlier EFI plenum? I've an idea it's lower? Wondering because I'm planning on putting the old Range Rover engine in an MGB, and saving a bit of height would be a very good thing...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Don't think so - they never injected the MG. You could be thinking of the twin-plenum SD1 Vitesse.

The MGRV8 was injected - it had a hotwire system - and it did have an MG badged plenum chamber. I'm not sure it's dimensions were any different to the Land Rover one, though, as the RV8 had a bonnet bulge and in any case they're probably rarer than unicorn poo.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looking forward to this :) How does the Thor manifold compare for height to the earlier EFI plenum? I've an idea it's lower? Wondering because I'm planning on putting the old Range Rover engine in an MGB, and saving a bit of height would be a very good thing...
HoSS: Going slightly OT i know, but I'd be interested in how you did the Thor conversion and what the power / torque spread is like compared to the hotwire setup?

I was going to answer here, but best not to hijack. Started a new thread here:

forum link

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi All

Update: I have decided to go for the water pump mount, as Les had already had a think about it and formulated a plan, mainly. I am sorting the loom ready for its return, and hunting down some scrapper Escort HT leads.

Will post photos presently.

Anybody out there have any proven ig maps for LPG??

Damon

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Ian

I remember vaguely hearing that LPG liked a steeper map. I have also heard that detonation is harder to detect on LPG, so am a little clenched about dialling in too much on the gas?

Les is making my coil pack bracket as we speak, and I am finishing off the loom at my desk. Am running the MJLJ with a PP3 battery, and have the map switching working and all, so when I get the shed that is my Disco back I will get it fitted and post up an update.

Only anomaly so far is that the RPM guage in the configurator shows 228rpm with no inputs. Even shows this with the MJLJ unconnected to the laptop.

Damon

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Pure detonation is hard to detect period ................ full detonation is different to pinking and will destroy an engine in seconds............. but you are not in that territory.............

LPG has a much higher octane rating than petrol, but has a lower calorific value.................... it also burns much slower, hence the reason to light up the pot a bit sooner. The lower calorific value is the reason why you get 10% mpg on gas...........and potentially 10% less power...........

I think you would have to go a long way past a std map +14 to get into pinking land ................... much depends upon the CR of the engine, if its std then fine, if its been played with then treat with a little caution.

:)

Ian

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I remember vaguely hearing that LPG liked a steeper map.

I never finished my spark maps before I sold the truck :(, but my experiments suggested that LPG needs a different curve rather than a simple offset across the whole map (which is what you get by twisting a dizzy or, so far as I'm aware, with all of the plug-in magic boxes). I think it needs a lot more advance at the bottom of the map, but more or less the same as petrol at high revs.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'll play....

Modified mondeo coil packs and holders in original coil position.

59488297kj2.jpg

Crikey that's a long way from the far bank of cylinders!

I have gone with the water pump mount.......... nice bracket made by Les, EDIS-8 module on inner wing drivers side, MJLJ to left of binnacle. Loom mostly made now so will have it in soon.

Will post pics when I have finished rewiring all my fusible links!

Damon

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 6 months later...

post-12413-1226571142_thumb.jpgAfter trying to fit my dizzy LR leads onto the 1st gen EDIS coils - I realised they do not fit - of course I should have searched and asked before....

Is it better to order full set of Spark plug leads (triggerwheels.com) - or just the connectors and replace them on the original LR cables on the coils side?

No usefull scrapyards here around - so I have to order new from somewhere - any suggestions on that as well?

The picture shows the connector that I think I need - am I right?

Thank you in advance.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

from the coil packs which I get from the scrappy.

The ends are easily recovered, are metal and and can be reused, with care.

As you said this is not as easy for you.

RR

yeah - thats a problem. Magnecor is too expensive (I havent found an exact pricing - but I think that it will be more then 70 pounds). So I will go for the set sold at triggerwheels. Do you (or someone else) know if the spark side on their leads is ok for the LR?? It is hard to see from that smal picture they have on the web shop.

Edit: Have found this in a local shop - will check - for cca 30 punds (2 sets of 4 cables) - it should work.

http://www.tesla-blatna.cz/en/ignition-lea...0-77-79,889,236

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy