Chassis Care

[stuck]

Hi all,

Haven't been on here for ages, nice to see the same people seem to be about.

Quick question, I've just bought a 2000 reg 110 TD5 which is in very good nick and would like to keep it that way, what is the best way to stop the chassis getting tin worm?

Cheers & all the best,

Mick.

[K88 MUD]

A good jet wash inside and out and a waxoyl

[Frax]

Waxoil outside and inside, get as much in there as you can, I also try to fill the inside with old engine oil. Don’t do this on your drive or in yer garage as it will get all over the place.

It is also a good idea to do the waxoil in warm weather .

Frax

[chadler]

I also try to fill the inside with old engine oil. Don’t do this on your drive or in yer garage as it will get all over the place.

Frax

Do NOT do this - old engine oil is carcinogenic, not the sort of stuff you want to be splashing all over the place. The oil will drip off onto the road making it potentially lethal for motorcyclists. The oil will wash off if you go wading and contaminate watercourses. End of lecture, and sorry if I sound like your mother - but some suggestions are just plain wrong.

[brighouse shed]

try Bilt Hamber Dynax S50 as an easier to apply alternative to Waxoyl, then i would go hammerite route on outside of chassis you can see the tin worm as it emerges and treat it.

[iomlt]

Also buy a tub of clear wax oil and remove top bolt of door hidge to bulkhead and spray loads in there and there are grommits along bulkhead do the same. i took my door cards off and sprays and filled them with it including back door.

I tend to mix some clear with some white spirit and then paint it over all nuts and bolts etc then when its time to do maintance then its SO much easier to undo etc. takes a little bit of time but helps in the years to come.

good luck and its the messiest job IN THE WORLD .... haha cover yourself up as much as possible and if your doing it this time of year,....the a few buckets of HOT water and place the can in them and the gun your using (if your using an air system)

[wack61]

I'm planning on using the kit from dinitrol on mine when the weather picks up a bit, ie it gets above -5

Is there a reason you're all recommending waxoil last time I used it on a MX5 it was a right PITA

this is the kit i'm talking about or they do an aerosol based version if you don't have a compressor

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/DINITROL-RUST-PROOFING-WAX-KIT-LITRES-LARGE-Carr-FREE-/120633143902?pt=UK_Body_Shop_Supplies_Paint&hash=item1c164bb25e

[stuck]

Cheers Chaps!

[brighouse shed]

I'm planning on using the kit from dinitrol on mine when the weather picks up a bit, ie it gets above -5

Is there a reason you're all recommending waxoil last time I used it on a MX5 it was a right PITA

last time i used it was on a fiat 132 (oh how we live) in 1982 and agree PITA. since then lots of company cars and new own vehicles so no mechanic duties. with my 90 looked at alternatives and Bilt hamber seemed easier to apply (see threads elsewhere) and less smelly, dinitrol looked easier but variable results so went Bilt. Was impressed with the nozzles and ease of application and seems to confirm results of many others

I guess in a couple of years i will know but so far i am impressed.

[sharpy]

not wanting to upset anyone, but the guy who just did my clutch highly reccomends engine oil, take out warm oil from the engine and spray librally, surely thats gotta be green????????? re-using engine oil, didnt realise it was harmful? he does recommend you leave your truck for a few days for the oil to work in and not make a mess of the drive and other road users. The waxoyl treatment does seem good for a new truck but it just seals your chassis, and whatever is on it or in it, it doesnt disperse water or damp, so on older trucks you are surely just trapping moisture next to the chassis??

Paul

[brighouse shed]

The waxoyl treatment does seem good for a new truck but it just seals your chassis, and whatever is on it or in it, it doesnt disperse water or damp, so on older trucks you are surely just trapping moisture next to the chassis??

Paul

the "waxoyl" products drive the surface water away, it's not a hard wax which is waxoyl's other product. Inside chassis is what i would call WD40 followed by light tar. one chases the other smothers and keeps moving slowly whilst stoppping air and water doing their orange worm producing dance.

[cackshifter]

Worth noting that inside the chassis is where it tends to rust, rather than outside, except for outriggers etc. If you can only do one bit do the inside, and keep the outside washed off as much as poss.

Nigel

[JJB Serenity]

at the back of the Land Rover mags you often see adverts for a rustproofing procedure by a chap near Rugby. can someone explain (in simple terms for my benefit ) what is this all about and is it worthwhile?

many thanks

JB

[Happyoldgit]

not wanting to upset anyone, but the guy who just did my clutch highly reccomends engine oil, take out warm oil from the engine and spray librally, surely thats gotta be green????????? re-using engine oil, didnt realise it was harmful? he does recommend you leave your truck for a few days for the oil to work in and not make a mess of the drive and other road users. The waxoyl treatment does seem good for a new truck but it just seals your chassis, and whatever is on it or in it, it doesnt disperse water or damp, so on older trucks you are surely just trapping moisture next to the chassis??

Paul

Re-read post #4 in this thread

[LandyManLuke]

not wanting to upset anyone, but the guy who just did my clutch highly reccomends engine oil, take out warm oil from the engine and spray librally, surely thats gotta be green????????? re-using engine oil, didnt realise it was harmful?

Hardly, it makes a mess of the road, your drive, and anything else it drips on. It's also going to cause motorcyclists fun if you drip all over the road having just applied it 'liberally'

Edit. HOG beat me to it.