reb78 Posted June 24, 2013 Share Posted June 24, 2013 I was just wondering what i would need for replacing the core plug above?I'm going to order the exhaust manifold and a new core plug. Any thing else i am likely to need?? (obviously will need coolant too). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted June 24, 2013 Share Posted June 24, 2013 You should only need a gasket rather than the whole manifold, or is it very sad looking / did you mean a gasket? I'd expect problems with nuts and studs to be more than likely unless it's been off and refitted by somebody sensible, as Land Rover never did discover copper grease ... I'd plan on fitting a full set of new ones! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted June 24, 2013 Author Share Posted June 24, 2013 You should only need a gasket rather than the whole manifold, or is it very sad looking / did you mean a gasket?I'd expect problems with nuts and studs to be more than likely unless it's been off and refitted by somebody sensible, as Land Rover never did discover copper grease ... I'd plan on fitting a full set of new ones! Haha!! Thanks - yep, the word gasket was missing from above! Hope the manifold doesnt need replacing anyway. Is there an upgraded set of studs that i have read about somewhere that is worth buying? Or will normal replacements do? I'm just keeping my fingers crossed none of the buggers snap! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8 Freak Posted June 25, 2013 Share Posted June 25, 2013 I found comments about using Wurth studs (Mercedes parts) and bought some for approx. £15 from Eblag when I changed mine. They are longer and I could only get a spanner on some so it takes a little longer but hopefully now they are on for the life of the engine. Something like these.... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-TD5-UPRATED-WURTH-MANIFOLD-STUDS-X10-AND-COPPER-NUTS-X10-/300912829481?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item460fcd6429 Neil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted June 25, 2013 Author Share Posted June 25, 2013 Thanks Neil. I've gotta get one of these land rovers running properly soon so i can concentrate on the other. I'm being pressured to start with the D2! The studs look good. Did you fit them dry (i.e. no loctite?)? How tight did you do them into the head? and also, did you enlarge the holes for the studs on the manifold at all? Finally.... (for now) did you de-web the manifold whilst it was off? I've heard of a few people doing it in various ways. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonr Posted June 25, 2013 Share Posted June 25, 2013 Something like these....http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-TD5-UPRATED-WURTH-MANIFOLD-STUDS-X10-AND-COPPER-NUTS-X10-/300912829481?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item460fcd6429 Neil I was convinced until I read... "THE EXTRA LENGTH MEANS BETTER HEAT DISSIPATION" OK, it is true that more surface area will dissipate more heat - but I'm not convinced that the few extra nano watts of heat dissipated will make a blind bit of difference to anything. It should read... "Extra Length because Wurth don''t make them the same length as Land Rover"! Si Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wingnut Posted June 25, 2013 Share Posted June 25, 2013 I had to have the exhaust manifold skimmed on my car a little while ago (about 5.4mm out of true). As usual some of the studs broke off as the nuts were removed - the first and last studs (front and rear of the engine) had already broken off, hence the scream to let me know there was a problem. I replaced the broken parts with standard length replacements, copper/brass nuts (I forget which) and drilled the first and last holes in the manifold 2mm larger than original. In theory (in my mind), once the manifold has warped once, it shouldn't warp again - my idea of drilling the two end holes out slightly oversize was to allow for slight movement due to thermal exansion. It was only these two studs that had sheared off originally. I left the webs in the manifold alone and, after about 15,000 miles, all is quiet and holding together - so far. Peter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gadget Posted June 25, 2013 Share Posted June 25, 2013 On my Defender, but there's no difference between it and my Discovery TD5... I fitted a new set of LR standard studs. Had the manifold skimmed because it was horribly warped. Drilled the manifold mount holes on ports 1 and 5 to 10mm. The core plug is an odd size hex drive. 11MM comes to mind? Had no issues since i refitted everything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted July 1, 2013 Author Share Posted July 1, 2013 Well, pulled the manifold off tonight. All went well: All the studs are in one piece. So, a couple of questions: 1. would you change these studs as a matter of course? If so, do you Loctite the new ones in??2. I put my flat rule across the manifold. I can rock it ever so slightly. Would I have noticed if the manifold was warped - there were no power issues or loud noises? The gasket/manifold faces don't have soot marks to suggest it has been leaking. I'll try another flat surface tomorrow. 3. Is this stuff suitable to put on the threads of the new core plug to seal it up: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gadget Posted July 1, 2013 Share Posted July 1, 2013 All the studs are in one piece.So, a couple of questions: 1. would you change these studs as a matter of course? If so, do you Loctite the new ones in?? 2. I put my flat rule across the manifold. I can rock it ever so slightly. Would I have noticed if the manifold was warped - there were no power issues or loud noises? The gasket/manifold faces don't have soot marks to suggest it has been leaking. I'll try another flat surface tomorrow. I'd change the studs, just for piece of mind. They're very cheap. Mine had at least 3mm gap when a rule was put across it. It was a hell of a bend. If you think the distortion would be taken up by the gasket width then i'd not bother touching the manifold. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted July 24, 2013 Author Share Posted July 24, 2013 Well, manifold skimmed for £25. If it was warped, it was slight, but I have the peace of mind of knowing it is flat for now! Next question - I need to clean up the gasket surface on the head - what would you use? Fine wet 'n' dry (if so how fine?) or something else? I've gone at it gently with a brass brush, but it needs a bit more and I don't want to score the surface. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gadget Posted July 24, 2013 Share Posted July 24, 2013 I dragged a new stanley blade perpendicular across the surface to remove the rough stuff and then scotch bright and white spirit to finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted July 24, 2013 Author Share Posted July 24, 2013 Ta. The Stanley blade as got as much off as it can, so onto the scotchbrite next then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted July 29, 2013 Author Share Posted July 29, 2013 The areas around the ports are proving hard to clean. Would a brass wire brush on a dremel likely damage the alloy head gasket surface?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gadget Posted July 29, 2013 Share Posted July 29, 2013 I would think a brass brush would be fine. Don't put mental pressure on it though. Stuff the ports with tissue paper or some such to prevent bits of the brush droping in? Bear in mind that it only needs to be flat rather than squeaky clean. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted July 29, 2013 Author Share Posted July 29, 2013 Thanks. I'll run over it gently with one and see how it looks. Its poured down here tonight, so hardly got anything done! Need to get this back on the road and then re-bush the 110! Might take Friday off as this job is dragging on too long! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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