NicTheOrange90

No, Ive got some anderson connectors and will be putting a connector under the bonnet. If I do need to get to either seat box store its 4 x 8mm bolts so wont be too long to get off

Here are a couple shots of the 110 with KA seats in the front. You can see on the bottom pircture the large 6mm plate (not painted it yet) that secures seat to seat box. I had to cut rear lip of seat box on driver side to get the KA runners back far enouvh for my long legs to get comfy. No need to do this on passenger side. BTW I welded on L shaped brackets to KA frames for earlier mounting attempts, I dont think these are needed, but as they were on the seat frames I used them. You can also see the LED light I put up recently, its very very bright !

I was thinking of something like this... http://www.earls.co.uk/earls/coolers/components/remotefiltermounts.html

Hi Jason, I have an ebay shop which sells them. I wont advertise here though as its a commercial free zone (and should stay that way).

Quite possibly. I removed the Renault quick release fittings and then bolted the seats to LR frames. One reason for choosing the Scenic II seats was that we had one in the family and could chek (although wife did appear at the wrong time when I had her seats in a trial fit in 110 !!) Scenic seats are almost perfect dimensions for the 110.

Id like to fit a remote oil fiter, not seen one for the TD5, has anyone fitted one ?

Si, I could probably drop mine in the internal mail from Kent, PM me if you need to, we dont get as far around the M25 as would be close enough to drop off, but even the Royall Mail posty is pretty reliable and cheap ! PM me if Tidworth does not pan out. Nic

Ashford is about 30 miles away for me. I can probably oganise collection this side of easter, drop me a PM and Ill send you my phone number.

Ive now replaced the front seats with a pair from a Ford KA, I originally made up a metal bracket to pick up the LR holes and the ones from the KA seats, but that added height. I then orderd two 6mm (the same size as the LR seat base) thick ally plates from Eblag, then I drilled the for LR holes, and the four KA ones, using 8mm countersunk screws to provide a smooth finish. Ill take some photos and add them to the link at the weekend. BTW Im planning to run Anderson connector to the battery which wil be mounted in the engine bay, so I can still get to charge/jump etc.

There is one in the Dover area, it looks like a 110 standard roof has been shortened down (ie cut the middle out) so that what was at the rear of the truck is now where the double cab would end. I think its a two door, and looks quite reasonable. Im assuming you could get a 110 hard top, and then put side windows in what is left. If I see it again, Ill take some pictures. Presumably you have to remove rear bulkhead (ala 90) and this means its a one way trip !

I know its not in West Kent, but I have an excellent mobile mechanic who could do this work for you, he is in the Sandwich (East Kent area), you would probably have to leave your landy here and get the train back, but it would be in very good hands. You can get the bits from YRM and he can weld them in for you, and even apply a coat of primer/paint for you as well. PM me if you need his details.

Is your 200 Tdi lacking in power then ?

I see that you own a 110, but not sure what engine. I had a full upgrade [ECU upgrade, EGR bypass, larger intercooler, turbo kit] fromTd5 alive and it totally transformed the vehicle [ did it it stages], but if your a 300 Tdi owner then you dont have the same options.

Bearmach South East 18 Lake Walk, Larkfield, Aylesford, Kent ME20 7TQ 01622 717525 Website Directions

Correct!

I was doing a training course last week, and discussing braking systems. We had to do a test on a vehicle and see what defects were present. All of us missed the fact that the rubber pad on top of the brake pedal was missing.... VOSA would (we were told) issue an immediate prohibition order on a vehicle with missing rubber pad (assuming non slip replacement not fitted). Also Police could do same (PG9 trained officers). The offence would be: "brake pedal anti-slip item missing/defective" Worth checking on your vehicle ?

All the info here, and PM me if you need any extra info.

I put a Bearmach wheel carrier that takes the weight of the wheel and allows it to open with out any extra effort, the 2002 door was deflecting quite a lot when the door was closed with a wheel on it. Rubbish finish (peeling after 2 years) wish Id bought a mantec, but these were the only ones in my budget.

Renault Scenic II seats in mine, one of the best mods Ive done

Thanks for that Ralph, I did read the description about the 1amp, but when I search on ebay for 12v diode, and there are loads, so I try to refine the search by adding 1amp, but then there are none. They all seem to be listed with their wattage rating and no mention of amps. Dont want to get the wrong part. Perhaps I should just stick to putting it on its own switch and fused supply as I obviously need the 'lower level guidance'

on my 110 the rear light operates by itself if you open the rear door, and side doors operate interior light at the front. If I can just get a bit more info on what type of diode we need, Im sure things will be fine...

Could I replace the festoon with an LED festoon to reduce the current draw ? Also there are loads of diodes around please can you give me info on what I need ? there a quite a few 12v diodes on eblag.

OK, didnt go according to plan.... Already had earth into the earth for the light, so took a feed from purple/white, it had the following results Light switch in position OFF = 1 small LED lit (ie a small current getting to LED), no festoon Light switch in position CENTRE - LED on full (door closed/engine running/not running) festoon very dim Light switch in position ON = 1 small LED lit (ie a small current getting to LED), festoon on If I had the switch in the CENTRE position, and door open, Festoon on, no LED.... A tad confusing... I see from the wiring diagram that the purple/white gets its feed from the ECU.... I wonder if its a current draw thing... so it might work properly If I replaced the festoon with a fusible link? Alternatively I might just wire up a separate switched supply...... ( have the switches, just wanted to make it neater). BTW the LED is a 42 LED unit so probably draws a little more current than a small LED unit...

Thanks Ralph, Sadly its too dark to try now, but Ill give it a go in the morning.

Im looking to mount an LED light (like flourescent strip) in the Defenender. Done this before on other vehicles, but this time Id like to get a feed from the existing factory light switch. Fitted the new LED, put live and earth above headlining. Removed existing switch/light and found: 1x earth on a backplate 2x live feeding the switch (both mainly purple). I put a meter on the copper strip on the back of the unit and to my surprise it seems the lamp has 12v all the time .... (yes I did have the door closed etc). copper strip #1 goes from purple live to the switch copper strip #2 goes from another purple live to the festoon lamp, then carries on to the switch silver strip #1 goes from the switch to earth The switch has three positions: ON - er as it says Middle - operates with the door opening and stays on for xx seconds afterwards Off - dont come on at all. My assumption is that the switch somehow disrupts the flow to earth and thats why the copper strips both seemed to be live... (bulb was not lit until either switch set to ON or door opened). So - Can I get a 12v supply for the LED that is switched from the central light unit ? We have them on vehicles at work and the LED gets its power from the left [passenger reading] of three units inthe roof Discos and Shoguns ane even 5 series Beemers. I can always run a 12v supply and switch it, but looks neater without a second switch. Can a grown up who knows more about interior light switches give me a quick dummies guide please?