NicTheOrange90

Brake lights all OK, So, If I clear the faults, then wait 10 mins or so, and restart, the 3 amigos are all gone. and ABS light behaves as it should. Drove round for 40 mins or so, no problems, then stopped and restarted and... they are all back. this time with a new code: CUR 01-3 255 I can clear the fault code stored, and the process repeats. I have checked as far as possible all wires to wheels and nothing apparent.

So not used the Defender all week, got in it to move it today, and the three amigos (Traction Control; ABS; Brake warning) lights all on and wont extinguish. Normally the brake & TC lights go out after a few seconds, and ABS goes out when you start driving. Brake fluid OK, lid OK, wires seem OK. Nanoncom read the ABS ECU, had two faults: INT 02-1 10 INT 01-4 255 Cleared faults, no change (three amigos still present). tested all ABS components with Nanocom, all seems OK. Relay clicks when tested. Fues 11 and the big one under seat seem OK, relay connections all seem clean and no chafing noticable. What next ?

Just got a reply back from Duncan @ Britcar, he says he is unable to supply aftermarket pumps (mine failed less than 2000 miles) so has agreed to take it back and supply with genuine part. So it seems there might be a problem with non genuine TD5 pumps if he is unable to supply them any more !

Had rear crossmember replaced in November and as the tank was down invested in a new fuel pump. Six months later it has failed (high pressure side). Has anyone else experienced aftermarket TD5 fuel pumps ?

Nice work, looks great. IMHO would you consider sideways facing baffles to stop all contents from ending up at one end ? Also how about something for the corner to stop water ingress ? I agree about painting, it would look much more subtle if it was blended in with the rest of the tub... If anoye else is considering this type of work, might be worth a look at this site for metalwork fittings http://www.unistrut.com/about/index.php?P=po_mf

I second the Britcar service. However dont rule out your L/R main dealer parts dept. I use Barretts of Canterbury and if you get the right person, they are very helpful.

I have to get some more Chawton white from the supplers on Friday, I think Ill get some suitable primer and paint at the same time. I think a dark silver/gunmetal would go OK. Ill paint the headlight surrounds and grille at the same time. I might even get the camera out to record the progress (this is being dont for purely cosmetic reasons, so has to take the appropriate priority). Jason, Ill pass on the prototype for the moment, it may be some months before this gets done!

My 2002 Defender surround and grille look quite nasty in faded black. Anyone sprayed theirs (silver aka newer models, gunmetal or black ?) WHat sort of paint is used ?

What a great Idea ! Ive always found getting the nasty pine tree things out a real pain, (I have a few specialist trim tools but even then its not easy to get some of the older ones out without pinching material).

Not heard of MIB Components. Just be aware that some of the later TD5's have a different rear crossmember and the old ones are not able to be fitted. I think Richard ended up fitting a genuine part to mine as the current aftermarket ones did not fit. This meant using his plasma cutter (which was apparently a real hardship) to cut the existing crossmember off and leave the ends of the chassis to weld onto (as opposed to the replacement parts that have a short section of chassis). Any linkys to MIB's site ...?

Ive put a second row set in from a Renault Scenic II. Bolted em to existing LR seat frames. Put a 2x2" bar along the back, and a securon 3point replacement centre belt in. Each seat has some forward and back movement on its own runners. http://forums.lr4x4....showtopic=44942 Also put Ford KA seats in the front.

did you put a Land Rover one on or another make ?

I did a V8 conversion on my old 90. I used RR dowpipes into defender Y pipe and then defender std all the way back.

Your not taking it to the same place you have had all these problems with are you ?

Ive recently purchased a winch bumper which is in a guys house in Leighton Buzzard, he works near Hangar Lane (so collection could be from either) Im looking to get it to either the 02, or to Kent. Beer/fuel tokens supplied in return.

I had to do a couple of repairs on an ex MOD 90, got repair sections from YRM http://www.yrm-metal-solutions.co.uk/015-door-repair-section-11-p.asp Well worth it, but you have to be able to free the ally skin from the door.

http://www.x-eng.co.uk/Instructions/X-Fan.pdf Im sure you have these diagrams, but IMHO if you dont want an overide switch in the cab, just run the wiring to have fan(s) controlled by thermostat (as if you had included a switch and left it permanently in one position. If your not sure, why not get an auto electrician to help, most of them wont mind you 'assisting' ie you can plumb in the Xfan and the electric fan, and they can wire it all up for you.

If I recall my days supplying aftermarket and racing steering wheels, the quick release units mean you have to weld the supplied spline onto your steering column. This might present problems when using the self cancelling indicator bit. We had a couple of hundred made up for the racing market but as I recall it was a prett closed shop and if your spline was different, no one wanted to know. We stopped importing steering wheels, when collapsible steering wheel column bosses (designed to collapse if you are thrown against them in a crash) gave way to airbags and steering wheel mounted switches. I have a QT Defender boss (not collapsible) and one of their rubber rimmed wheels (had a few leather ones in the past). I do like the idea of a removable wheel, but for me its too much hassle.

I dont think the disco transfer boxes have knobs/levers in same place. You could order an exchange recon one and get a defender with disco gearing (Its worked out very well for me). I know that Ashcroft has a very good name, but if you cannot stretch to their budget, I used CS Gears in Coventry. Most of them can recon your own box if you can do without it for a while, and they can even fit new box for you while you wait.

IMHO Motor Trade Insurance policies: I know for some trade policies you have to state that you are engaged in the sale or motor vehicles as a part time profession. If you say you are and your not, then you may invalidate your policy. The insurers are quite at liberty to ask for proof of your profession (Im sure they would consider if a claim was presented) With most you get the trade price of the vehicle if its a loss situation (which you as a trader would be OK with, as you buy at trade prices) - worth remembering if you are driving your mate's car. A lot of these policies dont include windscreen cover More restricions are being placed on policy holders as it was often a good way to get back uninsured cars from the compound You have to put any vehicles on in your posession for more than 14 days onto the MID (Motor Insurance Database) so they dont appear as unisured on Police ANPR cameras In many cases you 'have' to be driving other vehicles (not on your policy) in connection with your motor trade or business (ie road testing/delivering etc) as in not just nipping down the shops (which would be the case if you had your own vehicle and had used the 14 day rule) Not all traders policies offer the same benefits as personal polices (ie legal cover etc) If you knowingly take out a traders policy and are economical with the truth (or dont read the small print) you could be looked at quite closely under the Fraud Act whihc has a lot more power since it was updated. You can check your policy details on Ask MID

Im looking for details and possibly diagrams for a project I said Id help with I need to get details of the various brake circuits (UK; dual ciruit; Hi; L etc). Ive not manage to get any decent searches from T'Internet so would be interested if anyone has links/diagrams/etc that they could let me have showinng various components (ie load compensators etc). if you need a mail address to send stuff to please PM me.

Hi Rich, Its nice to talk and Im glad we can have such a forum where we can still have such polar opinons on the same thing, but at the same time be able to offer help & advice on others. Also was not in anyway making comment on your abilites. BTW, I dont think any of my dogs ever chewed anything, and Ive got two at the moment that have been as good as gold.

I have one of these it might be worth considering, but the seat needs to be rigid enough. As Ralph says a modified outer front (id get a bar made up to run along the bulkhead to strengthen the bulkhead.

At the risk of being controversial, Id teach your dogs not to chew, and get a seat that will protect whomever sits in it as best as you can even if it costs a couple of hundred quid. This is not the 1950s when it was acceptable to not have belts or decent fixings, we all see what happens when cars stop suddenly (some of us more often than others). A few hundred mounds for a robust seat vs the horrific injures that are caused when unbelted or poorly fixed belts/seats are used seems to be penny pinching in the wrong area. Im sure a decent seat cover/bag could be sought that protected the seat when folded up... Sorry for the 'harsh' reply, been a long weekend...

Actually I managed to fit each seat in about 20 mins. I measured the size of 6mm panels I needed, then ordered them from this guy on Eblag (used the ask question for a custom size) . They arrived in a few days and then made up a paper template to pick up the existing holes on the seat box (need to remove a couple of small bolts at the back of the seatbox and turn them around so nut at the back). Once the plate was down I put the KA seat on and maked the holes, drilled the holes (plate removed) countersunk them from underneath, put 4xM8 countersunk screws in and secures seat to plate. Put plate in and bolt onto seat box. As its a 110, you could put the plate on hinge at the back and put a lock at the front, so it could be hinged back (KA seats have lever to allow seat back to fold down) Total cost: Seats £40.00, ally plates £95.00 per pair (inc postage) and a couple of countersing M8's These would also fit in a truck cab, and if you wanted to keep access to wiring box, then its only 4 bolts (so you cannot keep your sockets in there).. Using the flat 6mm plate method means you can fit almost any seat and not have the problem of increased seat height.