NicTheOrange90

IMHO go for original as they have lasted 90,000 miles and dont seem to have been any problems.

My 110 Td5 had a similar problem, I replaced the door coutesy light contact (it was disconnected when I bought it - I reconnected it and the alarm started playing up, I didnt put the two together at first). Fot a good quality replacement and been right ever since !

I dont think its uncommon to have; 4x4 permit (on road) 4x4 permit (off-road/winter driving) 4x4 permit (towing) This allows the maximum amount of people to drive the vehicle for most of the time (which as we all know is on road, no towing) without having to send everyone on expensive courses. Back to the forum OP topic... I think each of us forms our own opinion of the possible issues to help other motorists if we see they are broken down or need assistance. Rendering basic assitance until emergency services arrive which, IMHO, we all have a duty to do as drivers (which can be in the form of driving past and calling 999, stopping to help direct traffic, or giving first aid) See article 283, is quite different to attempting a recovery with our own vehicle. Each time we see something that we judge to be other than the norm, we make a decision, an no one else can do that for us. Having a 4x4 (even if it is 'the best by far') and a rope does not qualify a recovery vehicle. Equally this is Britain (not yet a fully litigious society), and no matter where we come from, or our cultural background on the whole the majority of us are decent law abiding citizens who just want to help and in some cases a tug out of a ditch can make the difference. Again IMHO if you do decide to stop and you are satisfied it is safe to do so etc (which is a whole different threa which has been covered many times before) why not consider asking a few choice questions. " Is anyone hurt ?" " Do you need any assistance ?" If they ask you to help get them out of their predicament, and you decide to go ahead, then make it clear you are only helping them out at their request and that their vehicle may sustain further damage during the 'recovery' . What happens next is down to your skill and judgement, and could result in a happy fellow motorist on their way, or it could be a 38 tonner* remodelling your rear end and generally spoiling your plan to be a hereo ! *this could be any other motorist/jerk changing their radio station at the very time they come around the corner and not just a very large moving object hurtling towards your Land Rover. If you see the Fast Roads training the police have to go thru (which in some forces is any road with a speed limit of 40mph or more) which involves the distances at which cones\signs need to be placed back before the incident, and the type of vehicle which can be deployed, then perhaps you might think the standard Defender 'high intensity' indicators are a little to be desired.

Not sure Id agree with the above comments Offence = FAILING TO DISPLAY EXCISE LICENCE , Non Endorsable, £60.00 fine, 0 points

Got mine from Eblay.. bit cheaper than VWP (no disrespect to them)

Have you thought about ashcroft transmissions for assistance. Id suggest that you need to consider the basics; Gearbox crossmember/support (if there is one) Overall gearbox lenght (is it the same) Kickdown (cable mounting on to linkage etc) Td5 engine and connections (isnt there a clutch thing on the ECU?)

Hi Matt, I have a 2002MY 110, and ordered a standard crossmember with extensions after checking with supplier. It did not fit so a genuine LR one without extensions had to be fitted. Tank out, and lots of cursing (im told). The differences seem to bein the forward face of the centre section. Original has a flat face, standard one with extensions had cutouts and this meant the fuel tank could not be mounted.. Not sure if this is common to all TD5's or just 2002MY onwards.

Unfortunately some of them seem to be covered in something called Rilsan (plastic). IMHO this is very nasty stuff as it tends to rust from the inside and then whole strips of the plasticy stuff come off. Then when you try and clean down to bare metal, other bits of plasticy stuff remain stubbornly stuck to metal, and the grinder/flapper wheel gets clogged with said nasty plastic. powder coated or painted every time for me... Also ones Ive had in the past tended to wait until 13 months before the rust/plastic battle rears its nasty red head (er not that Ive anything against red/ginger hair/heads you understand)..

Youve not replaced a stop/tail light recently have you ? Heard of someone who put wrong bulb in and it caused issues.

Have you checked the connections on the back of the ignition switch are all OK and on properly ?

Hi DJ, IMHO the fact that it has piles of receipts and appears 100% does not mean anything (ie that its legal and does not need a Q plate, and is tax exempt) Does the V5 have the correct chassis & engine number ? If its a 1960s motor then that is the price it would be compared against, and not a 110 (which it isnt - or if it was it would not be tax exempt). Just be aware that 'hybrid' vehicles can be difficult to insure and sell on. That being said if its cheap enough, then fill your boots. Also getting spares might be tricky if you dont know what bits are from what vehicle... Just my thoughts.

hi, This is not an uncommon problem, I have the same on my 02 110, but its the passenger door. My 110 has a lot of miles on it, so have replaced the striker plat and am going to put a new latch on (probably be in the summer when its warm, but other priorities - like work etc). Other posters suggest its WD40 that cures all (I must have put at least 1/2 a tin on in the past, so I dont concurr), or the door rubber seal becomes harder over time and stopts the door from closing (more plausible, but I have fitted a new seal last winter, and this winter have same problem... Im going to put a new striker, new latch and a proper LR door seal (not a pattern or aftermarket one) and see if this cures the problem, if not then I might just not use the vehicle in the winter ...

Im unsure after reading your thread if you have added the ECU yourself, but the way I interpret your thread is that you have a second ECU which has been remapped ? If this is the case can you re-install the original one for a period to try and rule out the newer ECU? Did you ever have any problems with the vehicle before ? Is it only since the weather turned cold you have had the problem ? Are there any other factors (such as changing fuel garage etc) that happened about the same time ?

I have a 2002 110 TD5 with 140k on the clock. It is an ex-MOD Police motor and had a whine on the transfer box and the main gearbox was a little 'loose' I was a bit strapped for cash at the time, so got Colin @ CS gears in Coventry to rebuild main gearbox and fit disco gears to transfer box. The top end was much more refined (so when 60 felt uncomfortable before, now it was a breeze). I did notice a lack of power for pulling away with a trailer (fully laden) so went for a TD5 stage one remap (got them to do it) and that made a real difference. As funds have been available I put the bigger TD5 intercooler on and the turbo boost pack. IMHO it makes the vehicle much closer to the disco performance, it now pulls like a train (even with 3500kg on the back) and means I dont have to change down so often. I have kept standard size tyres on, and wont be increasing them (I remember what it did to my old V8 90 when I increased tyre diameter). My 110 very rarely goes off road (its a tow car and just nice to have a 110) so dont need extra ground clearance. Just my take on the question.

not sure if the older than 2007 steering wheel boss(s) will fit your Defender, but have a look here http://www.qtservices.co.uk/region.asp?id=333 then you can get any MOMO style wheel and mount it on your Defender... Does this help ?

If you end up getting a sport, and taking the steering wheel off for your Def, Il take the now steeringwheel less Sport off your handz !

http://www.ashtreeglass.co.uk/catalogue/index.php

Just had my 110 back from Richard the mobile mech in East Kent (highly rec if any one needs a good LR Mech). He had just put a new rear crossmember on, and as he had to frop the fuel tank I got a new fuel pump (143k) fitted. It always started first time, but I dont even think the engine does a full revolution before it jumps into life ! If anyone wants a fuel pump as a spare PM me, its yours for £30.00

I had a rear door grab handle from a discovery (the one that is in the load area) on my old orange 90 on the dash. Bolted in fine and was even at the correct angle. Looked OK in nice grey and had a nice knurled finish...

So take each vehicle on its merits then (of the two you have seen). The forum will be equally divided (as per your vist to the challenge events) who like 300Tdi and TD5's. If you take into consideration the overall condition of each vehicle, and dont mind which type of engine you get, then that might be a better comparison. For example if one has a few dents and scrapes and your intending to challenge it, then you wont mind a few more etc

IMHO if you want a challenge truck and its your first land rover and you want to use it as your everyday car, you might want to take a week off, come to a challenge event and see what they use and if it fits in with your every day requirements. Then you will see first hand what makes a challenge truck, and an everyday car and what is the most common engine configuration. Personally (and this is only my opinion mind) when I need to nip to the shops, or put the kids/wife/girlfirend (not at the same time mind ) in, I dont want mud and stuff (well not in the winter at least ) everywhere and making a mess of nice work clothes. If however your a forestry type and you need the 4x4 to get down to the main road, then thats different..... Also I was under the impression that late 300 Tdi's seemed to fetch more than early Td5's. I know which Id rather have (TD5, but then I dont do so much muddy stuff)

My 110 had the TD5Alive treatment in two stages (remap & EGR then bigger intercooly/turbo boost). I decated the pipes as well and it drives much better. Good service, good advice and would go back again.

Just that a lot of modern car manuals tell you to NEVER jump battery to battery... I agree about connection via chassis is electrically same as battery to battery though.

Continuing along this old post theme... Im putting remote Anderson connector for jump leads. I plan to mount it in the engine bay and have the leads and an extender already made up from previous vehicle. As Im putting sound proofing on the seat box and replacing LR seats, I dont want to be getting into the battery bay on a frequent basis. The question is: Should I run a negative return to the battery or to the chassis ? I ask this as have heard of issues of an exlposive nature when directly connecting two batteries together for charging.... BTW I dont rate the new search facility as well as the old one, but did search and came up with this thread.

I had some of this stuff. I changed a green to black canvas, and also refurbed a green one